Best Studio-Designed/Interim Collections & Shows

[LadyJunon]

While studio-led collections have a reputation of being bland, inoffensive and lacking in solid direction, but I wonder if this forum has any that left them pleasantly surprised.

My particular favourite is Dries Van Noten SS25, because of how the team carried over Dries' close attention to detail, something that these sorts of collections often seem to lack.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Chloe Spring 2007 (if you count that)

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Does Silvia Fendi count lamo? Fendi Fall 2020

 

[Lola701]

- Givenchy FW2017. For me it’s the blueprint of what a studio-led in-between 2 CD should be.

- MMM FW 2012 and FW2013
In general, I think Margiela has had the best collections designed by a studio. But I had to choose so those two.

Does Silvia Fendi count lamo? Fendi Fall 2020

I don’t think it counts as she was the creative lead in that case. I wanted to mention Gucci menswear FW2015 but even though Michele was officially appointed later, it was his debut collection.

 

[carla56]

Well Lallo's first Gucci menswear show technically was by the studio, he was just the head of the studio in that moment... That was definitely not a bland collection!!!!

 

[JohannesL]

If that Gucci one counts, it is definitely my favorite as far as I can remember.

 

[hamburgers]

Well Lallo's first Gucci menswear show technically was by the studio, he was just the head of the studio in that moment... That was definitely not a bland collection!!!!

That collection unfortunately changed expectations for CEO's forever; three hit items straight out of the gate that would define the entire company for years later with the dionysus bag, princetown mules, and marmont belt.

Roberto Cavalli Fall 2017 has to be the funniest interim collection I've ever seen, and the fact that the clothes were executed perfectly make it even funnier. Does anyone have some tea about it?

 

[carla56]

That collection unfortunately changed expectations for CEO's forever; three hit items straight out of the gate that would define the entire company for years later with the dionysus bag, princetown mules, and marmont belt.

Roberto Cavalli Fall 2017 has to be the funniest interim collection I've ever seen, and the fact that the clothes were executed perfectly make it even funnier. Does anyone have some tea about it?

Well it was lucky with those three items, but it was great in terms of fashion proposal, it was a radical change from what the brand used to be, he was very brave to do it!

About the Cavalli collection, I didn't remember it and just watched id... It's far more luxurious than everything Fausto will ever be able to produce, but if you told me it was a collection by Givenchy team after Riccardo left I would have totally believed that!

 

[Kanzai]

Jil Sander Fall Winter 2014.
Ann Demeulemeester Fall Winter 2014
I love 2014

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Chloe Fall 2005, Fall 2006 and Spring 2007

Some of the best collections the house put out IMHO.

 

[KilltheLook]

That collection unfortunately changed expectations for CEO's forever; three hit items straight out of the gate that would define the entire company for years later with the dionysus bag, princetown mules, and marmont belt.

Roberto Cavalli Fall 2017 has to be the funniest interim collection I've ever seen, and the fact that the clothes were executed perfectly make it even funnier. Does anyone have some tea about it?

From what I remember back then is the Cavalli's team know that Fall 2017 won't be produced whatsoever (the stores will be filled with merchs until the next CD comes) so the design studio decided to go all out (knowing that whoever comes next will fire most of them anyway).

I can't find the source but someone back then even suggested they hired Carine to style that season. I meant I wouldn't put it pass her with how sneaky she is sometimes lol.

 

[unknown179]

While studio-led collections have a reputation of being bland, inoffensive and lacking in solid direction, but I wonder if this forum has any that left them pleasantly surprised.

My particular favourite is Dries Van Noten SS25, because of how the team carried over Dries' close attention to detail, something that these sorts of collections often seem to lack.

I prefer this to dvn fw25

 

[LadyJunon]

I prefer this to dvn fw25

While I loved Klausner's debut, I agree that it veers too precious and delicate, almost static in a way. SS25 is more in line with the DVN ethos. The slight slouch of the silhouettes and the focus on separates and lingerie dressing bring the opulent fabrics and embroideries down to earth in a pleasing way. I personally might've opted for a silky headwrap and drop earrings for a bit of extra storytelling.

 

[unknown179]

I just remembered I didn't mind the fw24 collections by the Givenchy team, but I have a feeling that some people probably hate them.

 

[Lorenzogi]

Jil Sander S/S 2001 - after Jil left

 

[brandon J pierre]

After raf I always love this collection it was a nice cleaning of the slate i never knew what happened to those designers

 

[perhydrol]

i never knew what happened to those designers

Lucie Meier left Jil Sander in February, and Serge Ruffieux was working (briefly) for Carven, opened his own accessories brand, and works for Pucci now.

 

[reese06]

Gucci fall 2023 menswear and women’s shows were good breathers after Alessandro.

The womenswear set and Britney slave for you soundtrack do it for me.