Blumarine F/W 2024.25 Milan

[LadyJunon]

 

[perhydrol]

There are some nice pieces, but the styling turned the collection into a clone of No. 21. The production of the show was also dreadful and lifeless, it made everything even worse. I don't know, for me it's a miss, a miss that has nothing to do with Blumarine.

 

[GERGIN]

Something about this all looks so dated. Would have passed for a collection from 2015 or 2016 but not cutting it for 2024 sweety darling.

 

[Tchi]

Why the girls look like they went through a rough comedown?

 

[LadyJunon]

The result was exactly what I expected. Sad and depressing. Why they thought a designer who does quiet luxury could do Blumarine is beyond me. Bring back Brognano.

 

[Lola701]

I like it. I think it was a nice debut…
But first of all, what’s going on in Milan with those castings and those productions? I know economy is not what it was but is the goal still to provoke desire? Where are the top girls? Where are the entertaining shows?
A parade of zombies presenting romantic clothes is not working!

Back to the collection. I think It’s a good RTW collection that is going well with the idea I have of Blumarine, at least from the Anna Molinari days. The Y2K era was difficult to substain on a long term and in a way, this is the perfect transition. It’s wearable, it’s romantic and it offers options.
I don’t see N21 because I think Dell Aqua is more urban and has more sensuality. But I do see a lineage with Alessandro Michele’s early Gucci days.
His name was thrown in the Moschino thread but I think this collection has more of his spirit than Moschino.

Is it the freshest thing? No. But it’s a very Italian aesthetic and it works because those clothes are great nevertheless. Blumarine has never been on the forefront of fashion. I think they have more iconic campaigns than collections under their belt.

Overall a nice debut and I liked the gesture for his friend.

 

[bc collector]

Being not a fan of the brand, I don't mind this at all.
Admitted there is stil space in the fashion universe for a brand that is practically a relic of the 90's and admitted also there is a consumer out there for such propositions (somewhere in China? California?), I kind of like better this polished, edgier embodiment of the saccharine (or, to use the PR lingo, "romantic") original than the sleazy version offered by the Brognano/Volkova team.
Again, it's not really clear why designers these days feel compelled to throw in for a good measure a few men's looks, just for the sake of it and for the most unlikely brands, like this one.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

The casting is one of the worst I have ever seen. I could not be focused on the clothes at all.

Who is responsible for that ???

 

[tourbillions]

their men and women live in a completely different world. their women is that italian aunt who thinks shes fashionable but looks like a table runner all the time. The men is when non fashion people dress up to look like a balenciaga model.

 

[AlbertNoir]

I think it was N21 on heroin.
Loved Walter at Tod’s, but you can see from his intagram that he’s not passing a good moment emotionally: first the loss of his young nephew, then of his best friend Davide… and I think it shows in this collection. It’s sad, it lacks joy, life.

 

[Kennnnn]

I prefer this to Brognano's Blumarine. As Lola mentioned, it is close in spirit to Anna Molinari's work for the brand, but updated and grittier. It brought to mind those great ads for Blumarine in the mid-1990s with Carré Otis.

 

[disco54]

It looked like a Tumblr blog from 2008 come to life lol

 

[TianCouture]

I think it was N21 on heroin.
Loved Walter at Tod’s, but you can see from his intagram that he’s not passing a good moment emotionally: first the loss of his young nephew, then of his best friend Davide… and I think it shows in this collection. It’s sad, it lacks joy, life.

Came here to say this. I think this collection is actually pretty great but there is a level of sadness and I agree it's because what he's been going through the last year or two. From what he posts on IG I think he's pretty sad and hope he gets the therapy or help he needs, because I do think he is very very talented. Obsessed with the feather trim knit sets and some of the dresses here. Outerwear too is really nice. But I think casting and set kind of holds it back a bit.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It's certainly a Kering-fied kind of collection, even though they don't own it. I think the ease of shapes and fabrications has done that to make it easier to design due to other factors.

The sensibility of this is very Italian in the way it has something more relaxed and louche, with some great leather and rather chic little two piece sets. But it doesn't have much to do with Blumarine at all, although it is coming after the most heavy handed Y2K brand overhaul so that affects my perspective on it.

What does this an absolute disservice is not just the casting, but the styling, the set up and makeup/hair. It's incredibly dour, and Walter is certainly not in the best headspace because it is affected the output. There isn't a lot of joy, and I hope he finds some peace and support to help bring him out of it. There's some passion here, it's just been knocked around by too many other factors to help have focus.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

Ok, I feel like he tried to get back 1997 "heroin chic"...but without any glamour it had back then...so the result is just a bunch of junkies living on Skidrow streets; and doing anything for a couple of bucks and something to eat.
Also I feel some diluted grunge vibes. Courtney Love wasted while sleeping on her own vomit. Not desirable, that´s for sure.

 

[AnaD]

Remember when Blumarine was fun??

 

[zoom]

Ummm. That opener? Hard to focus on the collection with models shuffling around like psych ward patients.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It’s lackluster and generic, however there is at least things to sell. The previous designer had a very specific style that was suited for only one type of customer. At least this new guy is offering a little bit more variety. It’s too early to make a concrete judgment, hopefully he’ll make it more fun next season.