Brandon Maxwell F/W 2020.21 New York

To me this highlights everything that’s wrong with New York fashion. This is a parade of clothes that is so mediocre that it makes a Zara 70% off sales rack look avant-garde. New York is obsessed with merchandising and product focused offerings, but many designers and suits forget a sense of culture, context and dare I say it, fantasy. The worst offender is this men’s double lapel peacoat, with the most unimaginative styling possible.

Hedi Slimane often gets accused of putting plain clothes on the runway, but at least their they are surrounded by somekind of mood and culture.

this is nothing, and New York fashion week doesn’t deserve the airtime. Great designers like
Marc Jacobs can’t even save this nightmare.
 
I have with this the exact opposite problem that I have with Tom Ford.
While Tom surely has a point of view and an identity that can create magic with a good stylist pushing him, This doesn’t have a point of view and the magic is in the styling.

It looks well made but I don’t even think you can standout with a runway look outside of the fashion show.

He should take Siriano as an intern as he would learn how to choose fabrics and execute the clothes properly.
 
To me this highlights everything that’s wrong with New York fashion. This is a parade of clothes that is so mediocre that it makes a Zara 70% off sales rack look avant-garde. New York is obsessed with merchandising and product focused offerings, but many designers and suits forget a sense of culture, context and dare I say it, fantasy. The worst offender is this men’s double lapel peacoat, with the most unimaginative styling possible.

Hedi Slimane often gets accused of putting plain clothes on the runway, but at least their they are surrounded by somekind of mood and culture.

this is nothing, and New York fashion week doesn’t deserve the airtime. Great designers like
Marc Jacobs can’t even save this nightmare.
Marc should just move to Paris fashion week bc NY is dead. NYFW feels more like fashion week in some random city that has one for their chamber of commerce and has a dog show in the mix.
 
LOL!!! Is he serious with this? This is exactly what happens when stylists believe they can be designers. You couldn't even stand out on a street in Jersey City wearing this. Where's the glamour, the fantasy, the... fashion?!
 
What's the point of this show? Everything is so basic. No shapes, no color palette, no real design. Mediocrity is what kills fashion even more than ugly stuff. Just make a lookbook of it to save some money and invest more time and effort in the creations..
 
Know Brandon gets a lot of Ralph Lauren comparisons but at least RL has a strong vision of context. These are just wearable, commercial clothes with no real narrative behind it. A fundamental issue with most American designers.
 
The only good thing about his shows are the totally justified reactions on this forum lol.

I wish these designers would stop trying to engage in the menswear conversation without having anything to say.

These clothes are too pedestrian. It’s not democratizing fashion for the masses in any appealing way. But if we say that we’re deemed as too snobby ‍♂️
 
Despite those ugly skirts toward the end, I’m a fan of this collection! It’s nothing remotely groundbreaking but there are many elements that I like (especially fond of that brown leather jacket for women).
 
What I think is really great about BM’s shows is the fact that we can see Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele work on a different, quite simple register. She is the queen of excess so it’s interesting to see that she can do plain too...
Her involvement in the casting is worth every penny.
 
Yikes, the desperation here is so cringeworthy! It literally is like those Zara collections you'd see a season after it's proven how successful Celine and Bottega Veneta was, so they knock off all the hit looks. Just as Brandon Maxwell did here with the leather segments and Hedi's newly championed casual look for women. But then the closing part, the cheap-looking sheeny materials in garish colours which looks like it would be right at home in Texas, I believe that's all him.
 

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