Brandon Maxwell F/W 2025.26 New York

It's not great, but it's sophisticated and presents a clear idea of the woman he wants to dress. It feels like what New York fashion should be. Actually reminds me of the NYFW shows from the 90s.
 
I think these are frumpy clothes. A child cosplaying and adult.

I just don’t appreciate his hand in design. I think with these rather sober and minimal clothes the cut and the hand is everything. A delicate or minimal shape can be sensual and revealing. Here they are blankets of textile, like sofa throws. Within this torment of fabric he also manages to choose exactly the wrong shades of beige and grey.
 
I wouldn't give enough credit to say Philo. I would say it is Donna Karan circa 2011.
 

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