buyers choices S/S 07 collections *Milano & Paris

[Lena]

Milan Leaves Buyers Wondering if Sex Will Sell
By Miles Socha and Amanda Kaiser

MILAN —Like Justin Timberlake’s hit song, Italian designers brought “sexy back” to the center stage of fashion. But is it enough?

It depends on whom you ask. Many retailers dubbed the Milan spring season a disappointing one, where runway dazzle and excess overshadowed wearability — at times to tedious effect. Still, retailers said they were reassured to find this city’s mainstay of beautifully crafted, commercially viable clothes and accessories in the showroom, proving catwalk antics don’t necessarily affect the order books.

“The runways have been lacking in relevant day clothes for today’s women living real lives,” said Michael Fink, vice president and women’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Thankfully, we have found these clothes in showrooms and presentations that do not require spectacle to make a statement.”

Other buyers were even more upbeat about Milan’s approach to spring. “I think Milan is charged with youthful energy,” said Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director of women’s ready-to-wear and accessories at Bloomingdale’s. “In one week, fashion has brought back color, shine and uncomplicated sexiness.” Short dresses, miniskirts and metallic and patent accessories were cited as key directions for spring and summer, while the most widely praised collections included Marni, Giorgio Armani, Burberry Prorsum, Jil Sander and newcomer 6267.

Here, a rundown of what buyers had to say about a divisive season:

Ken Downing, fashion director, Neiman Marcus, Dallas: “The dress is continuing here in Milan as one of the most important categories for spring, and there were terrific options here: floating styles that moved away from the body — trapeze, Empire and shift shapes. The Eighties and Mod Sixties are giving the dress more of an edge. Romanticism and femininity continued in Milan as well.”

Downing noted patent trim, cropped jackets and clear handbags were important elements, along with silver and colors like yellows and blues. His standout collections included Marni, Jil Sander, Giorgio Armani, Prada and 6267.

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel, Nordstrom, Seattle: “The overall message was a blend of the Sixties and Eighties references. Clearly, the bare leg is important. After such a dark fall season, spring is really feeling a lot more optimistic to us, and I think customers will respond to it. Silver and shine will be very important, also patent leather trim on clothing, handbags and shoes. It was also really more about shape and silhouette than prints. Sleeve interest continues, [as well as] softer bubble shapes, and new items include city shorts, knee leggings and item skirts, with rolled hems, the mini or ones pieced together. Obviously, the dress will be the key item of the season.”
Marni, Jil Sander, Burberry Prorsum and Versace were among her favorite collections.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman: “Like New York, dresses remain predominant in a full range of silhouettes, including Empire-waisted, drop-waisted, trapeze, tunic and the baby doll. Short, shorter, shortest ruled the week! If we could sell long, slim, bare legs as accessories, we would be rich.”

She said key looks and trends included puffy, short sleeves; cropped soft jackets; metallics; sequins, and paillettes. Her favorite shows were Marni, Giorgio Armani, Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Jil Sander.

Janet Brown, owner, Janet Brown, Port Washington, N.Y.: “There are so many places spread out. The showrooms are not in a central place like they are in New York. I don’t think that Robert Oppenheimer, the father of the atomic bomb, worked as hard as I did this week to make the magic happen.”

Brown noted the importance of the trenchcoat, large volumes (especially at Jil Sander, Marni and Missoni), longer sweaters, belts and the “resurrection” of the jacket. She said she would continue to buy color sparingly and favor more neutral hues like navy, white, brown, black and gray. “One can’t have a store full of marigold.” Her top picks include Marni, Bottega Veneta and 6267.

Akihito Naohara, general manager, Takashimaya Co. Ltd.: “I think the collections were rather muted and not so impressive for me. I liked the creative side. I liked Burberry Prorsum, Jil Sander, Fendi, Marni and Ermanno Scervino. In terms of the power of the brand, I liked Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. In terms of beauty, I liked Giorgio Armani and Bottega Veneta this time. Trend-wise, nearly everyone was targeting the Eighties, but I think the creativity should be [more original].” Naohara said shorter dress lengths may be tricky for the Japanese customer, but the neutral and pastel color palette, including white, beige, lavender and pink, should translate well at retail.

from wwd.com

 

[Lena]

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York: “What’s going to drive business here is the dress,” said Gilhart, who skipped Milan’s runway shows last week to attend the opening of Barneys’ new flagship in Dallas, but viewed videos and saw collections in showrooms. “I liked the short length that can be worn as a dress or a tunic.” Gilhart said standout collections included Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta and Prada. She also praised Fendi’s accessories, but bemoaned a dearth of new designer names.

Rosy Biffi, owner, Biffi and Banner, Milan: “I thought that it was a strong season: contemporary, but a bit more luxurious than unusual. We need to see about pricing because that will determine how accessible these items are. These are complex collections in terms of quality and tailoring. I hope that things won’t be too expensive. In terms of trends, it’s all about the dress. Dresses of all types, but especially those that are above the knee. They are very feminine,” she said, citing Alberto Biani, Gucci and Pucci as her favorites.

Barbara Atkin, fashion director, Holt Renfrew, Canada: “I’m liking Milan. I think it’s going to be a good season. There were a lot of surprises, especially the amount of excess and glam, a new version of bling. I did like Dolce & Gabbana for going out there and giving us Hollywood glamour at its most extravagant. The luxury market is exploding — so to go back to pure minimalism would halt that momentum. The other school of thought is soft couture, easy dressing in simple fabrics and I love that subtlety. I think there is a really nice balance of lifestyle dressing.” Marni, Prada, Burberry Prorsum, Fendi, 6267 and Jil Sander were also among Atkin’s favorites.

Joan Burstein, owner of Browns, London: “It’s been a little bit disappointing. When designers are trying too hard to find a new direction, they miss out on the wearability of clothes for women. I did like Marni. And we have found items from people in showrooms, like Golden Goose, a young couple who have great items and casual sportswear.”


Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong: “Milan has been a bit all over the place with a little bit of everything, be it Eighties disco, Sixties, Forties [or] some Seventies swimsuits for good measure. The concern is that there is a lot of shine, satin and sparkle in Milan — everything is very dressed up, and by the time you add shoes and accessories [often in patents, metallics and Lucite], it all gets too much. We need to have a lot more balance. That is why Marni and Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti worked well and it was a relief to see some cotton for a change.” Rutson said she loved the sportiness at Marni, the jewel colors and unique Forties silhouette at Prada and the dresses and tailoring at Alberta Ferretti and Jil Sander.

Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director, women’s rtw and accessories, Bloomingdale’s: “Last season was really about covering up. This season, it’s about showing off your legs. I love all the minidresses, the shine and the use of technical materials. To me, that looks futuristic. I thought Versace was perfect because of the balance of ladylike with the shine and glamour. I did like Gucci. [Frida Giannini] hit that button for that girl who has never worn those kind of clothes. I loved Dsquared. And on the other side, I think Armani provided balance with quiet elegance.”

Michael Fink, vice president and women’s fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “Milan may be going through a midlife crisis evidenced by its pazza fascination with the Sixties and Eighties and sci-fi, futuristic dressing. Dresses continue, with volume a little more deflated in Milan. The color silver is predominant, especially in accessories. I love the vibrant reds and purples that popped up at Prada and Gucci. Mini lengths cannot be ignored, but micromini? That’s tough.”

Fink’s highlights included Prada, Marni, Gucci and Jil Sander, whose “perfect clothes could have walked right off the street. What use of color!” He also cited the “inventive” footwear of Courtney Crawford and the “chic shapes” at Albino.

Jeffrey Kalinsky, president and chief executive officer, Jeffrey New York, and director, designer merchandising, Nordstrom: “I do a tremendous amount of commerce in Milan and that never really changes. The people I depend upon all really delivered, I felt. I thought that the Jil Sander collection was a breath of fresh air. It was everything I love about spring: clean, light and fresh. I love the color. It had all of those elements. Every season, I think I can’t love [Bottega Veneta] any more, and then I do. The same goes for Burberry Prorsum. I thought that Prada was very beautiful. I am a Marni fanatic. I thought Consuelo [Castiglioni] did a great job reinventing the collection to continue to make it interesting for the Marni customer.”

Cedric Charbit, general merchandise manager, women’s fashion, Printemps: “There is a big turn in fashion. We’re moving on from that Chloé, couture mood. It’s very Sixties with a touch of Eighties, and a lot of Versace references in color, shape and impact. I was afraid we were about to lose that sexy customer, and now she’ll find more options. There are great dresses, tunics and a lot of great eveningwear that’s fun and young. There’s also big news with shoes: high, show-off, sexy shoes.” For Charbit, standout collections included Gucci, Prada, Burberry Prorsum, Marni, Jil Sander and Fendi. “Gucci was a really strong show for us,” he said. “There was a lot of brand DNA in there, a lot of newness, wearable and desirable.”

from wwd.com

 

[Lena]

i was actually a bit dissapointed by 6267's new collection but i liked Marni & Bottega Veneta a lot

no surprised at Burberry's success but i'm afraid the Jil Sander 'mini-triumph' is a bit too hyped for what was there on the catwalk

nice hearing people talking about the 40's ..thats one decade that can take some fresh exploit

anything could be fun as long its not 60s/70s/80s

 

[mimiko]

thanks for the article

 

[liberty33r1b]

interesting to read, thanks!! and i agree with everything you said, Lena.

 

[KhaoticKharma]

I was actually quite suprised at the amount of people who cited Marni... I thought the collection was good, but certainly not on par with Versace or Jil Sander. And Gucci and Dolce and Gabbana were faaar from stellar

I think sexy will sell... with all the recent backlash over too-thin-stars and the ninties themes we're seeing, as well as the shift in music and pop culture to overt sexuality, I think sexy is having a comeback.

 

[kanita]

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman: “Like New York, dresses remain predominant in a full range of silhouettes, including Empire-waisted, drop-waisted, trapeze, tunic and the baby doll. Short, shorter, shortest ruled the week! If we could sell long, slim, bare legs as accessories, we would be rich.”

I would buy them if they were for sale.

I think most buyers are hoping Paris will be beter. And judging by what we have seen at Balmain, Rick Owens and Junya Watanabe, Paris is very promising.

 

[Alliecat]

Thanks for the article - interesting take. I havent seen anything from 6267 yet. Goes to look....

 

[KhaoticKharma]

6267 was actually a really nice collection... very beautiful use of color, wonderful cuts, very chic

[style.com]

 

[Lena]

and now.. summing up the season, here comes the buyer's report from Paris

A Paris High

PARIS — World capital of fashion?

Absolument. Retailers said the international marathon of fashion weeks ended on a high note in Paris, which offered not only jolts on the runway, but great dresses, easy sportswear and other creative styles that should keep the luxury business rolling.

"Paris just keeps glittering more and more," said Janet Brown, owner of Janet Brown in Port Washington, N.Y. "My budget is up 20 to 25 percent in Paris. Even sportswear, which was never the forte of Paris, was very strong this season."

Many buyers said they would increase spending here, citing standout collections from big houses and emerging designers alike. Although trends were diverse and sometimes conflicting — ranging from no-holds-barred futurism to retro Edwardian finery — buyers praised an emphasis on tailoring and athletic and "sportif" influences.

Cropped jackets, romantic blouses, skinny pants, small handbags and platform shoes were frequently cited as key items, while the most lauded collections included Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten and Stella McCartney.

"What excites our clients is newness, quality and surprise, and you can find it here aplenty between the runways and the showrooms," said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, at Bergdorf Goodman. "Paris always crystallizes the spirit of the season and it's clear that youthful dresses remain the most diverse and dominant must-have category."

Here's what buyers had to say:

Joyce Ma, principal, Joyce Boutique Holdings, Hong Kong: "Thank God for Paris. It was much more interesting than the weeks before. However, it will be a very difficult season. Key trends such as short-shorts and futuristic styles may be difficult for my clientele. Prices are so high. Everything has become very expensive. Alexander McQueen and Yohji Yamamoto were both very, very nice, as were Lanvin and Chanel." Ma said she would be increasing her budget over last year. "We will be spending more; however, the summer is not an easy season for us."

Anna Garner, fashion director, Selfridges, London: "Paris gave sense to what has been overall a difficult season. Key trends that emerged were futurism and athleticism. The silhouette emerging from Paris was sharp and lean with more than a hint of the masculine, although dresses (very short) are still key. The Eighties were a strong reference, particularly at Balenciaga, one of the strongest shows of the season. Alber Elbaz has also sharpened his Lanvin collection with great lean pantsuits and a mix of modern and athletic. Nylon and plastic featured heavily on the runways in a cyber context. Shoes for spring are particularly strong, often with Perspex platforms, and metallics, especially liquid silver or mercury, were prevalent again in shoes and bags. Stella McCartney combined all the key trends, showing a great mix of modern, slightly slouchy athletic rompers and short dresses. Her collection also reinforced the season's obsession with the Sixties microlengths and futuristic influences. Alexander McQueen was a sheer delight with beautiful Edwardian tailoring and fantastic dresses."

Michael Fink, vice president, women's fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: "The Paris collections provide a scattershot approach to the needs of a modern woman looking to dress the various aspects of her lifestyle. More reality-based than Milan, the clothes have been thought-provoking and often romantic with deflated volumes, sport influences and tailoring looking newest. Razor sharp linear silhouettes at Balenciaga and Lagerfeld prove that modern dressing doesn't mean kitschy sci-fi. McQueen's misty-eyed romantic collection was rooted in masterful tailoring — something missing in Milan. Dries Van Noten showed wonderful combinations of beautifully simple clothes. Chanel's graphic collection delivered a variety of jackets that will make our customer very happy. Tailored jackets, interesting sleeves, small bags, platform shoes and, of course, dresses — especially the archived sack dresses at YSL — are all season must-haves."

Ken Downing, fashion director, Neiman Marcus, Dallas: "It's a season of dresses and women are going to need a wardrobe of them. Yves Saint Laurent had terrific sportswear and beautiful dresses, and Chanel had great jackets and dresses. Sportif came on strong in Paris. At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière continues to be a source of inspiration for taking fashion to places we don't expect, and Alexander McQueen showed a collection that could bring a tear to your eye. And even though we don't carry the ready-to-wear, Louis Vuitton was overwhelming; just so inspiring. That's why we come to Paris." Among important items and categories, Downing noted metallic shades, particularly silver, cropped jackets, feminine blouses and clear accessories.

Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director, women's ready-to-wear, Bloomingdale's: "After four weeks of shows, it was amazing that Paris still provided a jolt of real energy. For us, the shows here crystallized the trends of the season and also gave new ideas. We liked the mix of sporty elements with dressier looks, as well as cargo pants, dressy coats for day and boxy jackets. Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton was an amazing and creative mix that showed how real women love to dress, while Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga catapulted into the future. Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel was clean and crisp, and we adored Stella McCartney. With this collection, she showed that she is evolving into a world-class player. Vibrant color also summed up what was a very optimistic Paris season."

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president, women's designer apparel, Nordstrom: "Obviously, the dress continues to be such an important statement. What also stood out was definition in the shoulders, and there was a casual, sportif approach to dressing with Member's Only-style jackets and easy bombers. Linear pants are important, as seen at Lanvin and Balenciaga. We loved McQueen. We saw it in the showroom and the collection really does translate even past the incredible show. For our customers, Valentino and Chanel definitely delivered clothes. We saw the next evolution of YSL with swing shapes. Apart from the rompers, Stella McCartney's dresses were spectacular, and we liked Giambattista Valli. The color palette has been really fresh here with greens, purples, red and yellow, mixed with black and white."

from wwd.com

 

[Lena]

more.. from Paris

Sarah Easley, co-owner, Kirna Zabête, New York: "Generally speaking, it wasn't the kind of season that you look at the runways and want to throw all your clothes in the East River. It was a good season — not a great one — and, in the showrooms, there are plenty of good clothes that will sell. Balenciaga's runway, for instance, won't translate so well, even if there were wonderful pieces in the showroom. I don't think girls are going to run out to buy C-3P0 pants. Space Age won't fly, but futuristic will. We loved David Szeto. What he showed was like nothing else out there, but still right for now. Giambattista Valli was strong with drop-dead evening dresses, Stella's masculine tailoring softened up with pretty feminine pieces was great, and Jean Paul Gaultier's collection was fun. The dress, the wide-legged trousers and lots of ruffles and lace were some of the main messages. Yet it felt like a season of transition, with several houses at crossroads, like Chloé and Nina Ricci. We're interested to see what Olivier Theyskens will do there. Our Paris budget will grow about 20 percent."

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong: "Paris was great, as it really helps balance out the season overall for retailers. In a season of dresses, femininity and sports influences, a number of designers put edginess, cutting and tailoring into the mix. That's given a strength and modernity to the season that had been missing from other countries. The dress is still dominating the catwalk; however, I feel the importance of tailoring has been the most important statement with peaked and other shoulder details. Precision cutting and long and lean silhouettes will be the most influential going forward. Chains, metal detailing or shiny fabrics gave a much edgier, modernistic touch. Lanvin was spectacular. It was a brilliant direction to take. I could not have loved a show more than that: modern, sexy and totally new." Rutson also praised Stella McCartney's dresses, tent coats, shirts and longer-line jackets; YSL for its tablecloth checks and "some of the strongest shoes and accessories I've seen on the runway," and Dries Van Noten for "perfect execution" of relevant modern sportswear.


Barbara Atkin, fashion director, Holt Renfrew, Canada: "Despite all the controversy, I found the season to be positive. The dress stood out as the most important item of the season and will be the modern woman's new uniform. My favorite collections were Balenciaga, which continues to push the bar of futurism; Lanvin for giving women simple luxury with just the right amount of extravagance; Stella McCartney for everyday sportswear that tapped into athletic couture silhouettes; Dries Van Noten and Jean Paul Gaultier for their sophisticated melding of athletic and couture shapes, and Alexander McQueen, who understands the strong beauty of a woman. We are picking up new niche lines such as Noir, Anne Valerie Hash and Sharon Wauchob. It was an easy season with just the right amount of newness and extravagance to keep the luxury market rolling."

Haru Suzuki, fashion merchandiser, Barneys Japan: "I felt the season was very positive. Both Balenciaga and Givenchy were very interesting. Young designers are also evolving. Christian Wijnants, for example, showed a more grown-up collection with colors and shapes that were more complete and wearable. Sophia Kokosalaki made beautiful dresses with her own pastel colors that were very different from other designers', while Nicolas Andreas Taralis' masculine shapes this season were stronger and more concentrated. In terms of trends, there were many new triangular shapes and a strong emphasis on shoulders, especially in jackets. Lengthy shirts and blouses that go well with pants and leggings will also be a very strong direction next summer. Suzuki said her budget was flat, noting she was concerned about exchange rates. "I'll pick up a few new names, but in less volume," she said.

Averyl Oates, buying director, Harvey Nichols, London: "One of the most apparent trends was clean sportswear with an injection of metallics and heavy hardware, such as Lanvin's chunky zips. We've increased our budget significantly and, following a disappointing season in Milan, have shifted some of it to existing French brands. There's a definite pop of yellow, though shades are neutral on the whole. Lengths are short, though hems will fall just above the knee in reality. I loved Stella McCartney's collection for its strong, wearable clothes with a point of view. It was a relief to see clothes that you could actually imagine yourself wearing," said Oates, who also lauded Alexander McQueen's couture element, Hussein Chalayan's artistic creation and Lanvin's use of techno fabrics and beading.

 

[Lena]

final part

Linda Dresner, owner, Linda Dresner, New York and Birmingham, Mich.: "It's been more of an item-driven business this season. There are a lot of great jackets, easy sportswear and it's clearly a dress season. We very much liked the colors, anoraks and easy sportswear at Dries Van Noten, the sporty feeling at Stella McCartney, Undercover for its cute and playful dresses, Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe for tailoring and jackets, and Balenciaga is clearly in a class by itself with a brave, independent spirit. Off the runway, we also found some lovely, sophisticated things from Adeline Andre and Gustavo Lins, whose clothes had the feeling of the future, but were still very wearable."

Pascale Camart, director, women's fashion, Galeries Lafayette: "The Paris shows were, as expected, very chic. Short lengths dominated the runways. Colors such as black and off-white corresponded to the underlining chic vibe, as did powdery pinks. Gold was also very present throughout the collections." Camart said dresses were still a key direction for spring, as were shorts and overalls. "Lanvin was marvelous and very sophisticated. It was the ideal mélange of a touch of adventure added to the perfect cocktail dress in beautiful colors. Vivienne Westwood continues to offer a refreshing alternative to the runway, while Valentino mastered elegant evening gowns with a modern spin."

Cindy Ho, commercial director, Villa Moda: "Paris is the place for real fashion and creativity. The most impressive shows were Viktor & Rolf, Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe, Chloé, YSL and Miu Miu. I am increasing my budget in Paris and adding some interesting labels such as Tao, Veronique Branquinho, and Vivienne Westwood."

 

[ultramarine]

Holy shi$e!

Milano got beaten to death!

Eeeek!

It seems that twas the season of McQueen and Marni ... excellent choices ... I love the japanese taste! *cough* -Taralis!- *cough*

 

[Lena]

^true, the japanese seem naturally 'forward' and i'm very happy for all of their choices, interesting to see how different buyers are reacting according to their 'area' and clientele range
those reports are my fave read at the end of the collections, since those orders are what the shows are all about..

i wasnt expecting such a harsh bashing for Milano or the praise for the McCartney & Lanvin collections

(glad to hear Balenciaga was better at the showroom than on the catwalk..)

 

[Scott]

Surprisng that only one mentioned TAO as I would automatically thought she would be one that gets picked up....her shirting this season was so strong and would be such a hit in some of these places...

 

[Lena]

mentioning Andeline Andre also came as a -welcome- surprise..

of course Tao orders must have been placed by most of these buyers, but they talk mainly for their 'pick' labels, where most of the budget has been placed

 

[Caffeine]

Surprisng that only one mentioned TAO as I would automatically thought she would be one that gets picked up....her shirting this season was so strong and would be such a hit in some of these places...

There is one thing I was thinking, scott, about the white TAO and Phillip Lim used in the collections. White is an important color in the SS seasons, but I always wonder how people take the WHITE white head to toe in a hot summer (it's almost too noisy to me). White with a little tone (such as cream color) looks a lot more sophisticated and gentle, which might actually suit their collections better.

 

[Caffeine]

^true, the japanese seem naturally 'forward' and i'm very happy for all of their choices, interesting to see how different buyers are reacting according to their 'area' and clientele range
those reports are my fave read at the end of the collections, since those orders are what the shows are all about..

i wasnt expecting such a harsh bashing for Milano or the praise for the McCartney & Lanvin collections

(glad to hear Balenciaga was better at the showroom than on the catwalk..)

Thanks for posting this, Lena. I always enjoy reading their comments. It seems like Balenciaga will be hard to sell afterall, but I'm sure people will buy lots from the capsule lines.
Also it looks like the clothes are even more expensive now
a little off topic, but I found Marc Jacobs' collection very Japanese influenced. Lots of garments remind me Sacai and I guess that their RTW will be selling well in Japan.

 

[birdofparadise]

I felt good about Stella in light of her past collections, I'm glad the buyers felt positive about it as well. Her windows in meatpacking always look good but the store never seems to be crazed, I'm wonder what the possible breakdown could be...