S/S 09 Buyers Reports

[kimair]

all from wwd...starting with new york...

Buyers Feel Shows Lack Pizzaz
NEW YORK — Safe but a general lack of zing.

That was buyers’ overall view of New York Fashion Week, which wrapped up Friday. While the commercial looks that packed the runways should have set retailers’ hearts aflutter, many of them were disappointed. Difficult times like these, they say, call not for the tried-and-true, but for wow-some looks that will lure nervous consumers to the stores, like bunnies out of the bushes.

“The shows didn’t really live up to my expectations,” said Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York. “There were some great ones, but for the most part, I think it was hard for designers to put their finger on exactly what we need and what inspires us during this period of change.

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director of Holt Renfrew, agreed. “We’re all examining and stepping back,” she said. “When there’s economic instability, people question their purchasing.

“This is a time when we’re really looking at the new guard of designers,” said Atkin, noting some iconic American design houses are floundering without their namesake designers at the helm. “There’s a lot of confusion at Bill Blass and the problem with Halston is, what does it mean anymore? It’s got to go beyond the name on the label. It’s just got to be fantastic clothes. The clothes have to have substance and the identity of what the brand is has to jump out at you.”

That’s what Atkin is looking for in all collections. “If we don’t get that, everything we purchase fades into a blandism on our floors.”

Jim Wetzel and Lance Lawson, owners of two Jake boutiques in Chicago and one in suburban Winnetka, Ill., said, “We did feel collections looked a bit the same across the board and felt some designs seemed more phoned-in than inspired.”

Of course, there were exceptions. Marc Jacobs and Rodarte were singled out by several retailers for their creativity. “Maria Cornejo, Alexander Wang, these are the new guard,” said Atkin. “A new generation is coming up quickly.”

“Overall, I think it will take some intense picking and choosing from each collection, but there is enough uniqueness and individuality out there in the clothing,” said Beth Buccini, co-founder of Kirna Zabête. “All the elaborate shoes and jewels are the really pretty icing.”

There were those, particularly at the larger stores, who left the week feeling upbeat, however. Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s vice president and fashion director, said she was pleased with the “fashionable and realistic” clothes she saw. “This is the best way to stimulate our buyers and our customers,” she said. “We are extremely confident about the season to come. Our business is strong because we know what we are doing and we know who we are. Give them fabulous color, give them the new item, present it in an aspirational way. If the product is right, consumers don’t even look at the price point, and fashion pieces always go first.”

The one trend most retailers agreed could go away: Harem pants.

Here’s what else they had to say:
Stephanie Solomon, vice president for fashion direction of Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Marc Jacobs moved us toward the future while referencing our past. It will take something special to get women to open their wallets. Everything in Marc’s collection was special. That’s exactly what we’re looking for, that special thing that will help us escape this economy. Ralph Lauren can still make a fashion director excited. Zac Posen was always a fledgling designer, but this collection brought him into the arena of world-class designers. I take him very seriously. Lela Rose did a great job. Diane von Furstenberg, Milly, Rebecca Taylor, Nanette Lepore and Anna Sui were standouts. Francis by Christian Francis Roth was so fresh, so right on and so happy in a climate where everybody’s taking everything so seriously, and Leifsdottir is doing very well. The novelty details and attention to detail are so important to the American customer. I’m not going to be cautious in my spending with the designers I saw this week.
The trends that are keepers: Harem pants, but not extreme harem pants; boyfriend jackets; jumpsuits; chiffon blouses, and dresses.

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of designer fashion at Nordstrom
Best fashion moment was: Being at Marc Jacobs’ show Monday night felt like I was witnessing something that doesn’t happen very often — a triumphant night for fashion.
Favorite collections: Kate and Laura Mulleavy had their strongest show yet. Taking all of their unique ideas that have become expected at Rodarte and adding on even more layers, they created something that was tough chic, but with an angelic side. Michael Kors’ collection was full of fabulous clothes. The colorblocking, polkadots and color palette were happy and optimistic. Oscar de la Renta’s polished and refined glamour [showed] he is a true master who always somehow manages to get better and better. Narciso Rodriguez always turns out a solid collection and he seemed to have taken yet another giant leap forward.

Michael Fink, vice president of women’s fashion direction at Saks Fifth Avenue
Overall impressions: I was truly excited by so many moments. I loved the collections that oozed a relaxed, urban sophistication and monochromatic layers of weightless fabrics that draped around the body
Favorite collections: Richard Chai, Derek Lam and Brian Reyes were spot-on with their supercool layering ideas. Oscar de la Renta’s minimal looks were some of my favorites of the week, as well as a new direction for his woman whose closets are filled with florals, ruffles and ethnic prints. Phillip Lim and Carolina Herrera wooed us with ruffles. I liked Michael Kors’ take on dots and stripes and we will sell those scuba dresses all day long. Marc Jacobs’ celebration of all things American was truly over-the-top good fun.
New talent I discovered: Christian Siriano gave a well-balanced and beautiful first collection.
Trends that are keepers: The vest, in all lengths from cropped to below the hip, is the new jacket for summer. Everyone will need a sequined “something” for day and evening. And if you haven’t done it before, this will be the time to test drive a jumpsuit.

Anne Watson, vice president and fashion director of Henri Bendel
Favorite collections: From the new guard, Elise Overland, Jason Wu, and Juan Carlos Obando.
Trends that are keepers: Irreverent pairings of prints and fabrics and the manipulation of fabrics through techniques such as pleating, draping, folding and twisting. Leather for spring is going to be very important for our customer and is a trend that we will go after. Hanii Y had great leather. Also, jumpsuits from Elise Overland and Thakoon. The new version of the cocktail dress, a textured sheath dress from Alexander Wang and Brian Reyes. I liked the wide-leg denim by Diane von Furstenberg and Milly.
To accessorize or not accessorize: There is no question that accessories continue to be an integral part of the wardrobe. Marc Jacobs’ use of accessories will surely have a halo effect on the rest of the accessories market, from wide belts, to the cummerbund effect with sashes, to the continued importance of statement-making jewelry.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: New arrival Jason Wu looks promising, and Alexander Wang delivered a strong, edgy collection. Accolades to Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein for his highly innovative folding collection. Vera Wang struck just the right balance between her artistic side and clean easy pieces, not to mention her exceptional accessories. Also, Narciso Rodriguez’s mix of softness with graphics as well as his body-baring looks and Rodarte for their poetic, enchanting fantasies. Ralph Lauren’s show was exceptionally beautiful.
Trends that are keepers: The tough girl, with so much asymmetry in bodies and hemlines, petal layering, slouchy pantaloon pants, and aggressive statement shoes; athletic body dressing with scuba, corsets, bandeaus, midriff cutaways, and crisscrossing graphics, especially in black and white, felt fresh. It was nice to see the evolution of ruffles.
To accessorize or not accessorize: Designers are wisely maximizing accessories as a category and an opportunity, stimulated by the success of statement jewelry for fall.

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director of Macy’s
Favorite collections: Ralph Lauren’s “Safari of a Thousand Nights,” Donna Karan’s style and sensuality and the purity of the Isaac Mizrahi collection with key looks such as the new trench, the corset and asymmetry. Also, the sportswear glam of Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein, Tuleh and Derek Lam.
New talent I discovered: I loved Christian Francis Roth. We are so happy he’s back on the scene. The young generation is developing its own style.
Trends that are keepers: Color creates an emotion to buy. The continuation of the print is remarkable. We like this whole new fusion combining feminine and sport, the new volume and the new shine with iridescence and sequins. Fabulous new items included the jumpsuit, motorcycle jacket, vest and feminine blouse. We like the importance of accessories, with big handbags and shoes. There are a ton of options.

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director of Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Michael Kors because he understands who his woman is. This season, he walked away from the uptight lady and gave us American sportswear in classic Bal Harbour colors and it worked. He also had wonderful scuba sexy dresses, which I think will bring in a new customer. Rodarte was fearless in their expression and whether you can wear it or not, I think it was art. They established themselves as American designers with a world-class point of view. Also, Jeremy Laing, a Canadian, did beautiful, billowing, simple clothing and worked with interesting under slips and openwork. Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera gave us quality and security and consistency. At that price point, you want that. Marc Jacobs summed up where we are today. He showed so strongly what I call the DIY look. You pick your clothes to suit your personality. When Marc mixes up the plaids with the damasks, evening with day and grunge with Asia, he’s saying take these items and create your own style.
Trends that are keepers: Romantic bohemia, monochromatic designs with clean lines that give more longevity to clothes, transferring details from the athletic world to couture shapes, papery leather, a variety of pant silhouettes and fabrics with glazing and sheen and shine.

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York
Favorite collections: Hands down, Rodarte. Alexander Wang’s show was filled with great energy and a lot of saleable items and Narciso Rodriguez displayed an elegant evolution with some edge.
New talent I discovered: Juan Carlos Obando, who had a great first show, and Erin Wasson + RVCA was a cute collaboration.
Trends that are keepers: I think the bondage details will make women feel sexy. Most important, there were lots of choices, from a rocker-type aesthetic to feminine and light.
To accessorize or not accessorize: Everybody’s trying to do a lot wherever they can get it. If you don’t have shoes, someday you’re going to have shoes. If you don’t have bags, someday you’re going to have bags. Proenza Schouler had a lot of accessories, which they’ve never had before. Alexander Wang had a much more developed handbag collection and Marc Jacobs had a lot [of everything].

Beth Buccini, co-owner, Kirna Zabête
Favorite collections: Alexander Wang — not quite a cult yet, but certainly a tribe, and we can prove it with our incredible sell-throughs. Narciso Rodriguez was the highlight of the week with confident, sleek and modern warrior dresses. We loved Thakoon’s naughty prints, toughness, and overall risk-taking and Elise Overland’s amazing leathers and sexy short dresses are a dream look for a sophisticated urban night owl. Also, Tuleh and Proenza Schouler.
Trends that are keepers: Jumpsuits, the Eighties, nude, a new toughness, splashes of pool colors — pale blues, mint greens and oranges — and great prints.

David Rubenstein, Jeffrey New York
Favorite collections: Narciso Rodriguez and Rodarte
New talent I discovered: Sophie Théallet, and I thought Juan Carlos Obando and Cushnie et Ochs also looked very strong.
Trends that are keepers: I was very happy to see all the vivid color on the runway. The overall lightness of many collections was really refreshing.

 

[kimair]

milan...

Milan Season: Buyers Say Right for the Times
MILAN — Italian designers spooned out the right fashion medicine for turbulent economic times: colorful and upbeat collections loaded with great accessories, retailers said.

“I feel that Milan put on a very optimistic season,” said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford. “Everyone is mindful of the economic situation that we are all facing. In Asia, our last economic crisis is still very fresh in our memories, and in those years, we found that spending was really on special pieces, strong statements, glamour and feel-good items.”

While allowing that Milan Fashion Week, which wrapped up over the weekend, offered few runway fireworks, no dramatic new fashion directions and far too many extreme platform shoes, many buyers said they were satisfied with the offerings.

“We’re very pleased with Milan,” said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus. “There are a lot of beautiful clothes in Milan and there’s nothing wrong with that.”

“I thought Milan was very safe this season with the ‘power brands’ turning out very commercial collections,” added Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director at Harrods, noting that Italian brands represent a large part of the store’s business that performs “exceedingly” well. “While the commerciality means that shows didn’t create as much excitement as they often do, it means we don’t need to worry about them being difficult to buy — or sell.”

Buyers cited a preponderance of bold, chunky jewelry, belts, flashy prints, shiny fabrics and a sludgy color palette of cocoas and okras with metallic hues providing the highlights.

“Milan also showed us flashes of flesh through cutout effects and transparency. The female body is being celebrated and shown off to full effect,” said Averyl Oates, buying director of the U.K.’s Harvey Nichols. Among standout collections mentioned by retailers were Aquilano.Rimondi, Giorgio Armani, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Jil Sander, Marni, Prada and Versace.

The following is a rundown of what buyers had to say.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman: “Italy embraced the many moods of women. There was a strong presence of more or less sexy offerings, translated into shorter lengths, shapely hourglass belted silhouettes, skin-baring cutaways, transparency and close-to-the-body shapes. In another mood was soft dressing, which was languid and breezy and best expressed in the fabric of the season — satin charmeuse. Black as a summer color was still important here, though we were relieved to see a lot of neutrals, as well. We loved Milan’s obsession with fringe, and think our clients will, too. Must-haves will be the strong platform statement shoe and both the skinny-legging pant and collapsed narrow pantaloon. Most designers are offering bold unconventional jewelry as an add-on of growing importance. Collections of special note: Jil Sander for its innovative ways of dressing; Bottega Veneta for luxurious and delicious leather in all categories; Gucci for taking us away from it all; Marni for the relief of exuberant, artistic color and pattern; Versace for the sharpest sexiness, and Fendi for its uberfuture femininity.”

Michael Fink, vice president and women’s fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “I love that the designers in Milan have returned to doing what they each do best, instead of competing to see who can be most clever, or ridiculous. This has been a week of selective luxury. Special, luxurious items for real women — well, for women who can afford them. The jackets and fluid layering ideas at Armani were just fantastic. Christopher Bailey’s nostalgic and romantic collection for Burberry, all gauzy and looking like best-old-friends, was even more ethereal in the showroom. Raf Simons at Jil Sander set the standard for the fringe trend in what was a collection full of silhouette surprises, especially when seen from the backside. Aquilano and Rimondi’s sophisticated, fluid collection of separates really wowed me. And their debut for Ferré exploded the icons of the house into an important new direction. Overall, a softer, more sophisticated, romantic mood is the tone of the week, with touches of the tropics thrown in for color and print. Transparent layers actually look plausible this season.”

Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente: “The collections were either excessively theatrical or too safe. It was disorienting. I believe the winning brands are those that have a strong identity and that take risks while being faithful to their DNA. I liked Jil Sander, Fendi, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Marni. I appreciated Fendi’s precise silhouette, and the cutouts were masterfully executed, in a spectacular way. Ferré was also one of the most interesting. It’s the perfect matrimony between [creative directors Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi] and Ferré’s archives. They translated Ferré’s theatrical architecture, with their contemporary sensibility. Of course, it’s their first collection, so we must give them time to grow, but it was successful.”

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel, Nordstrom: “The collections reflected an evolution, not a revolution. The most compelling collections and items are where we will be placing our bets. The main factor in what affects our open-to-buy is the strength of each collection. Optimism was reflected in color, lightness, transparency and mesh. Circular and geometric patterns were predominant, and fringe emerged as a strong trend. Jewelry, in particular statement necklaces and stacks of bangles, continue to be important. We loved the jewelry at Gucci, Marni and the tribal-inspired earrings at Jil Sander. Favorite collections were Gucci — tailored pantsuits, safari looks and jersey gowns with semiprecious stones; Jil Sander — sexy, modern suits and dresses with fringe; Marni — patterned knits and sleeker shapes, and Burberry Prorsum — outerwear, ombré knits and pants.”

Joan Burstein, owner, Browns, London: “There was nothing revolutionary, but I expect that in Paris, not Milan. But I liked what I saw here. I think accessories still remain very important: Jewelry was bigger and bolder than ever. I think Jil Sander was absolutely fabulous. It was elegant, chic and also a little sexy. It had all the right elements for temptation. And I loved Marni — the fabrics and the way she combined everything.”

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York: “Modern times are dictating a desire for ‘less extra stuff,’ and Raf Simons [of Jil Sander] showed how to do this without being boring. The quality and approach to fashion was great at Bottega Veneta. Some of the silhouettes may be hard to wear, but no doubt they were beautiful. Investment clothes are extremely important right now, and Tomas Maier addresses this issue through his clothes and accessories better than anyone else….It was great to see a lot of color on the runways. We need that for spring after a dark fall. The transparency layering idea adds a new element and, when done correctly, can be alluring and beautiful. Fendi and Marni’s execution was good. Obviously there is a lot of shape in the form of rounded silhouettes, but you can only buy so much of that.” Gilhart said standout pieces included “Jil Sander fringe pieces; Bottega’s cut fabric, ribbon dresses; Burberry dégradé trenchcoats; Marni’s multicolored knits; Prada’s gold metallic dresses, and Fendi’s new ‘classic’ handbag.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s: “When times are tough, you have to be focused, and for designers, that means sticking to a vision of making women look beautiful. In the current economic climate, women want to appear feminine but not totally girly, which is why I thought this season’s trend from Milan of combining men’s wear tailoring and soft feminine designs worked well. Armani has always had a vision of making women look beautiful, but he delivered it to the max this season, subtracting the theatrics that distracted you from the clothes in previous collections. Christopher Bailey [of Burberry] pulled out a collection combining beautiful chiffon dresses and capes, while Aquilano.Rimondi avoided excess geometry or intellectuality in favor of focusing on a love of women….The goddess gown trend tapped into an area where women are going to spend: celebration. Gucci, Armani and Versace all had these amazing glamorous evening gowns. It was ethereal. You want to float and escape in the evening. That’s when it’s an appropriate time.” Solomon’s standout collections included Gucci, “particularly the slouchy pants and tailored jackets,” Armani, Versace, Burberry and Aquilano.Rimondi. “I also liked Gabriele Colangelo.”

Cindy Ho, fashion and merchandising director, Kuwait-based Villa Moda: “Some designers were very interesting, new and diverse, while others were playing safe. The most impressive were Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Prada. Marni’s colors, handwork and embellishments were gorgeous and perfect for our market. Dolce & Gabbana was new and innovative through the combination of silk pajamas and Baroque fabrics. Prada was very special, very bold, revolving entirely around the same theme in very different ways. Gucci was a very luxurious collection. That said, overall, the week was flat compared to last spring. Fall-winter was stronger.”

Mohan Murjani, chairman of Murjani Group, which last year opened The Galleria, India’s first luxury mall: “Of all the shows, Gucci was for me the best, especially in terms of Frida Giannini’s pure focus, consistency and ability to perfectly capture and portray the character and sensuousness of the Gucci woman….From fall to spring, she showed great creativity through new, fresh and wearable clothes.”

Carla Sozzani, owner, 10 Corso Como: “Milan was colorful and happy. The collections were very vivid. My favorite show, though, was Prada, which was less frilly and flowery. It was very severe, in a way, but extremely feminine. I loved it. There were not so many bags this time, and more concentration on the clothes and the shoes.” Alluding to the many tumbles on the catwalk off towering shoes, Sozzani noted: “It’s time for flat shoes.”

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong: “To offset the mood of darkness of the economy, our customer will be looking for that sense of joy and light in their purchases. There were so many themes: sexuality and soft bondage, zippers and multiple bras on view; Eighties references; slashes and cutouts on dresses, and the global traveler-safari theme, along with beach references to shells and fish, in prints or accessories. Important details were degraded color finishes, a lot of fringes and tassels, real and printed python, gold, metallics and giant stone embellishment along with a multitude of sequins. Jewelry was a big statement with giant stones worn on the ears, neck and wrist. My favorite shows were: Burberry Prorsum, especially the sublime colors and dégradé trenchcoats and capes; Prada’s sensual and womanly take on the Fifties, with modern and crinkled fabrics; Marni, which continues to be a retailer’s dream, and Jil Sander’s take on tassels and the sexuality of the slashes.”

 

[kimair]

milan continued...

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “The whole romantic spirit — the ruffles the flounces, the bows — is right on the mark. Seeing a lot of dresses, with close-to-the-body silhouettes, is encouraging. And it’s great to see a real injection of sportswear into many collections. Jil Sander was outstanding and designer Raf Simons has redefined fringe, an important element in Milan. We loved Marni for the joyous colors, patterns and terrific colored horn accessories; Burberry for its ombrés and classicism; Bottega Veneta’s lavish luxe, and Aquilano.Rimondi’s chic take on orientalism. We loved the Lurex, lamés and sequins, the florals and random dots. One-shoulder silhouettes, oriental shapes and details and a new desert color palate are also important.”

Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director, Harrods: “There was a distinct move away from flashy toward a more understated look, especially for Milan, where we usually see the flash. One got the impression that these collections were largely geared toward one’s ‘free’ time: pajamas at Dolce & Gabbana, garden-inspired themes at Burberry Prorsum, skorts at Missoni, in addition to many stunning gowns for the evening and micromini hemlines for the day — not so office-appropriate. Important trends were feathers and fringing. Exaggerated shoulders were a little trickier, but were fresh. I especially loved the metallic fabrics in Milan, particularly those at Prada and Burberry. One-shouldered dresses and gowns were everywhere, and perforations and laser-cut fabrics were beautiful and added detail and sophistication to many collections, particularly Fendi. I thought Gucci looked the strongest it has in seasons. The show was absolutely beautiful to the last detail — from a commercial standpoint, it was perfect for Harrods. I also thought Fendi was very strong, particularly the bags. I thought Burberry Prorsum was the most creative and engaging show of the week.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion, Holt Renfrew: “Milan gave us exactly what we came here looking for — luxurious product with the right amount of ‘wow.’ In the world of apparel, designers gave us well-balanced collections with many choices for our customers’ varied lifestyles. Heritage houses in the luxury world are raising the bar and positioning themselves at the top end of luxury. The overlying trend was geometry versus femininity, and key elements included seasonless fabrics; details like fringe, ruffles and bows; transparency and cutouts, and polkadots. Key items include lightweight, easy toppers; strong-shouldered, man-tailored suits with ankle-bearing slim pants; longer vests; jumpsuits; soft flirty skirts; lightweight cardigans, and short, above-the-knee “fit and flare” shirt and halter dresses. Accessories took center stage this season — bigger and bolder than ever. Luxury brands are reinforcing the importance of the statement handbag and jewelry this season, as evident in bold earrings, necklaces and cuffs. The waist was emphasized by the use of dramatic belts. Clearly, the entire world of accessories has become an important extension of designer brands. There was a lack of innovation this season in footwear, as designers did not take forward their aggressive and extreme designs, except Fendi, which gave us a new trompe l’oeil stiletto wedge. My favorite collections were Jil Sander, Marni, Prada, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana.”

Averyl Oates, buying director, Harvey Nichols: “With the financial world in such a downturn, we expected Milan to be more subdued, minimal and toned down in comparison to last season. Despite this, it is still about luxury and, this season, about chic simplicity and subtle details, often inspired by the Twenties through the Forties. Fringed dresses at Jil Sander will be one of the must-have items of the season and no doubt will influence what’s happening on the high street. At Missoni, the Lurex story looks fresh and grown up, and the softer new style of prints once again shows that the house has moved on and is a force to be reckoned with. The color-blocked sequin outfit that closed the Marni show must, despite any talk of credit crunch, encourage every woman to reach for her wallet. Finally, as always, we must mention Prada. The chic, couture-inspired, bustier crinkle dress shown with a cropped open jacket is timeless, feminine yet provocative….Milan got the mood right by creating exciting clothes you must buy regardless of the bank balance.”

Rosi Biffi, owner, Biffi and Banner, Milan: “The best were Marni, Alberto Biani and Gucci. Marni [creative director Consuelo Castiglioni] has the creativity of an artist; Biani is chic, has measured, true elegance, is young and refined; Gucci is the expression of energy, modernity and curiosity. At Marni and Gucci, everything was special and unique. At Biani, the pants were not easy, perhaps, but beautiful, as were the slim jackets in soft and delicate tones. A number of shows were boring and uncoordinated. Overall, this was a season when both designers and clients were careful, keeping their eyes wide open.”

Michele Giglio, owner of seven boutiques in Palermo, Italy: “Giorgio Armani was very feminine and sexy. Gucci’s daywear was impressive. It worked very well. I liked the safari jacket, the suits — everything was very elegant. Prada was revolutionary, innovative, [Miuccia Prada] always takes risks. We should take pride in our Made in Italy, our fabrics, craftsmanship and designers.”

 

[kimair]

paris...

Good News, Bad News: Buyers Praise Paris but Tighten Up Orders

Of course, the economy was the major theme of the season — overarching everything shown on the runway. The news grew worse almost every day of the Paris shows, and doubts continue to rage over whether consumers will be in a shopping mood come January and February and, if so, how much they’ll want to buy.

Given the circumstances, buyers stressed the importance of tightly editing their orders. It is understood open-to-buys range from flat to down 15 to 20 percent.

“It is going to be an interesting spring from an economic viewpoint,” said Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director at Barneys New York. “It’s a good time to look at what is working and what’s not working and adjust.”

Dries Van Noten’s geometric prints, Lanvin’s sophisticated dresses and Chanel’s savvy separates highlighted the week, buyers said. Other standouts included Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga and Junya Watanabe.

Futuristic metallic fabrics, nudes, sheer dressing, African influences, geometric and couture details and bright shots of color were among trends retailers embraced. Intricate embroidery, strong shoulders, pegged trousers and hourglass silhouettes also dazzled.

Separates were a focus that may be good for business. “We’re feeling more of a sportswear message coming from many houses,” said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus.

A few buyers, though, warned that some designers erred too much on the side of caution. “It was a commercial season — perhaps a little too much in some ways,” said Averyl Oates, buying director at Harvey Nichols in London. “We are all feeling the global downturn and designers seem to have been sensitive to this.”

Here’s what buyers had to say:

Polina Kitsenko, co-owner, Podium, Moscow: “Standout collections were Balmain, Givenchy, Ann Demeulemeester, Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Revillon and Véronique Leroy. There’s still a lot of black and white, which is a bit upsetting for the summer season. There were asymmetric lines, and bleached denim is really coming back. We also picked up on a bit of a cowboy trend as well as Seventies and Eighties influences with padded shoulders. For colors, we saw lots of reddish oranges, cranberry and fuchsia tones. Generally, it wasn’t the brightest season. Nothing swept me off my seat. We’re not bringing budgets down, but we’re not bringing them up, that’s for sure. We have to be very cautious as Russia is already really influenced by what’s happening in the U.S. We’re trying to order a bit less than before. But we hope the luxury sector will be less affected.”

Erin Mullaney, director of buying at Browns, London: “Paris is at the end of a few weeks of financial crisis, so everyone was feeling like they really had to perform. Dries Van Noten, Balmain, Givenchy and Lanvin were my absolute favorites. Designers are pushing it in the luxury direction right now. There’s no room for mediocrity, it has to be really amazing. Lanvin was such a happy collection: It made everyone smile. I’ve heard from other buyers they’re cutting budgets by 15 or 20 percent. We’re spending what we feel we should spend. We need to get through Christmas and hope it’s not horrible. My message to my team is: We have to tighten up. If you don’t absolutely love it, don’t buy it.”

Linda Fargo, vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman: “With an eye and pencil sharpened by the prevailing mood, we found enough newness to excite our palate and enough balance between styles with longevity and faster trend options. Most importantly, our mainstay design houses came through. Chanel delivered a stellar collection inspired by its rich heritage and offered the promise of imperishable style. Lanvin uplifted us with chic, effortlessly modern clothing. Andrew Gn sent out one beautiful, approachable look after another, which his clients will not be able to resist. Giambattista Valli’s showroom was filled with a smart commercial component as feminine- and couture-detailed as his runway. Balmain was irresistible in its sexy rock luxury mode. And Junya Watanabe was a special calming counterpoint, layering African prints, eyelet and homespun denim. The strong statement or novelty shoe remains the must-have accessory, and the popular one-piece will be picked up, but with an eye on wearability. Important trends include body consciousness, revealed through transparency, short lengths, belted hourglass silhouettes, and pretty plays on nude.”

Miyako Sekimoto, fashion director, Matsuya, Japan: “This season there weren’t big trends. Dresses have been in the market for two years already, so we want something new. Now we’re very interested in jackets. In general, I liked the trend toward elegance and tribal chic. Junya Watanabe, for instance, combined his denim skirts with African prints for the tops. In accessories, many designers used big hoop earrings, influenced from Africa. I think the financial crisis affected the season a little bit. Last week Chinese stocks were in a very bad condition, so the Chinese buyers are very cautious. But Middle Eastern retailers were buying just as much. I think now Japanese buyers tend to spend more money in New York than in Europe because of the exchange rate. We are devoting bigger budgets for Japanese designers rather than European or American designers this season. If we import from the U.S. or Europe by the time we get the merchandise, it’s the end of February or even the end of March, so then we have only three months to sell. Now that the economy is so bad, we have to make sure we can put merchandise in store as long as possible.”

Cindy Ho, fashion and merchandising director, Villa Moda: “Lanvin, Miu Miu, Tsumori Chisato, Dries Van Noten and Rue du Mail were very strong. After Milan, it is a relief to see [such] strong collections in Paris. Some designers are really playing it safe this season, in a very commercial way, which I believe is due to the economic climate. The styles are commercial, but still we will need to check prices. Good products with appropriate price points plus the right delivery are the key elements of success when the economy is not strong. Compared to last season, collections were more feminine and elegant, with less color and lots of big jewelry. [Budget-wise], we remain on a level with last year.”

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president, designer merchandising, Nordstrom: “This season, more than ever, is a moment to be a good editor and try and buy the newest and most compelling offerings. Paris is always full of surprises and discoveries. The graceful beauty of Dries Van Noten’s collection was the highlight of the entire fashion season. The sophisticated hand of Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent created an ultramodern collection. The couture-like dresses at Giambattista Valli were amazing. We loved the mix of eyelet, denim and print at Junya Watanabe. Alber Elbaz brought us a beautiful, colorful collection full of covetable clothes. Haider Ackermann’s modern tailoring will be a great new addition for us. The future fantastic jewelry at Tom Binns will be the perfect accessory for any collection.”

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president, fashion director, Barneys New York: “What is so great about Paris is the true variety. Two of the best shows were very similar but opposite, Lanvin and Junya Watanabe. Both realized volume but in a graceful way. Both had color and print. Both definitely had charm and wit. All of these things are extremely important in a season where we are not sure where the economy is going and how the customer will respond. Collections that offer something different, but also address ease in wearability and are seasonless, will be stars. Stefano Pilati at YSL addressed this perfectly. Nina Ricci’s short-in-the-front, long-in-the-back artistically printed evening dresses were beautiful. Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy already knows how to do bondage, a major trend of the season, and did it with elegance. Overall, I think Paris nails the fashion for the season.”

 

[kimair]

paris, continued...

Michael Fink, vice president, women’s fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “Paris was a city of mixed messages on how to dress for the new recession. What doesn’t work: an excessive Eighties ‘Paris Is Burning’ or ‘Let Them-Eat-Cake’ attitude. Self-assured, confident women who wear their labels on the inside will collect the new kimono proportion jackets, skirt-pants, and caged shoes at YSL, or the supersophisticated sportswear separates at Dries Van Noten. If color, print and joy are your thing, then you could do no better than Junya Watanabe and Lanvin. Investment dressing? Go straight to Chanel and Martin Grant to pick up the jackets and dresses that will always be in style. Collect as many statement necklaces and bangles as you can — they’ll dress up anything already in the closet and even can be hung on the wall as art.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “Olivier Theyskens opened Paris with a dream of a collection at Nina Ricci, and did a terrific job of reinterpreting the runway at a commercial level. We’re seeing a lot of lingerie and boudoir details in Paris. Plays on sheer fabric, where subtle and tasteful, looked very good to us, and all the shiny and metallic fabrics will entice the customer. We loved Balenciaga’s finale of metallic dresses. Dries Van Noten was one of the standout collections of Paris: His geometrics looked very new and on-target, a good contrast to all the faded florals. Stella McCartney had a terrific collection, with a light spirit and sequins for day. Lanvin had all that beautiful color, and Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld is taking the world of ready-to-wear closer to couture with a level of craftsmanship that’s amazing. I’m loving all this Africana we’re seeing in Paris.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director, Bloomingdale’s: “Paris rocked! Stella McCartney’s cool collection of boyfriend jackets, jumpsuits and beaded dresses showed how the girl with the rock ’n’ roll soul should dress for spring. We loved Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. He stayed true to the vision of the house, which is the epitome of chic. Dior’s upbeat youthful collection of colorful chiffon mini goddess dresses and flippy skirts also was great. Finally, Isabel Marant, a contemporary Parisian force, has hit her stride with her je ne sais quoi approach that will show American women how to dress with French attitude. We loved that Paris gave us a romantic escape.”

Sarah Easley, Beth Buccini, owners, Kirna Zabête: “Considering the financial crisis, more than ever we are looking for love-at-first-sight, showstopping items. It has to be the very best. We found beautiful pieces at Lanvin. It was a truly joyous collection and if anyone has a party — it’ll be where to go. Olivier Theyskens at Nina Ricci did beautiful prints that you can wear head to toe without looking like a victim. A rocker-girl theme was happening in Paris. We are picking up Givenchy to explore that. If you’re going to buy black, it’s going to be in that rocker-chick theme. Another consideration this season was finding supertimeless quality items, like at Azzedine Alaïa. Business for us has been really good, even yesterday. People want to feel good and they want to buy clothes. We are neither cutting nor increasing our budgets. We are working to make each order count.”

Averyl Oates, buying director, Harvey Nichols, London: “Paris was a magpie’s heaven. Balenciaga’s cropped bandage peg-leg trouser is set to be one of the must-have items of the season. Dries Van Noten took the idea of optical illusion and overlaying graphic shapes. Stella McCartney provided the essential pieces that every girl-about-town should have in her wardrobe: relaxed Eighties-inspired jackets, short jumpsuits in washed silk and a variety of tailored or less structured versions of the cropped peg-leg trouser. Eighties body-conscious Lycra dresses à la Robert Palmer were also notable. Paris was about pared-down shapes with jackets and trousers making a comeback. Paris was very much about simple and easy shapes in a monochrome palette with strong trends for nudes, heavy embellished-sequined standout pieces and chunky statement jewelry.”

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and women’s fashion director, Macy’s: “This season is very much about individualism. There’s a return to sportswear and a wind of freedom everywhere. The importance of craft detailing and draping, of embellishment, crystal studding everywhere and sheer continue to be very important, as well as lace. Paris is offering a whole new color palette of pales and new neutrals. Prints continue, but we go from florals to exotic to graphic, as masterfully handled by Dries Van Noten. Highlights included Lanvin’s young elegance, Martin Margiela’s brilliant 20th anniversary show, Rick Owens, the fusion of sportswear and exotica at Ungaro, the trash glam at Balmain, the emotion of Nina Ricci, the charm of Antonio Marras at Kenzo, the modern sportswear approach and color of Chloé and Stella McCartney, the sophistication of Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, red-carpet dresses from Giambattista Valli and the sportswear aesthetic and energy at Jean Paul Gaultier. Off the runway, Angelo Tarlazzi showed a young, feminine and versatile collection.”

Armand Hadida, owner, L’Eclaireur, Paris: “In Paris, designers intellectualize: There’s originality and creativity. Balenciaga was a standout collection with its modern, architectural silhouettes. Junya Watanabe was a surprise. He took African fabrics and reinterpreted them by putting them with jeans, with different materials and colors. Comme des Garçons was as provocative as usual and the collection is even richer when you see it in the showroom. Gareth Pugh is bringing a lot to the fashion world. Designers have to have the courage to break the mold and do something new. This financial crisis is going to deal everybody a new hand. People who manage to complete the fashion marathon will be the people who deserve it, not the plagiarists or those who repeat the same things.”

Betsy Lepore, owner, Jimmy’s, Brooklyn and the Hamptons, N.Y.: “Regardless of an uncertain economy, Paris does what Paris did best: defy the rules and present overwhelmingly short and exquisite party dresses. Such dresses were shown in the retro-inspired collection of Giambattista Valli, whose dresses were perfect for the Plaza Hotel. The party feeling continued for Esteban Cortazar of Emanuel Ungaro, whose floral mélange short cocktail dresses in pleated chiffon were outstanding. Completing the trio of designers perfecting what the girls will be wearing in the up-and-coming party season were the couture designs of Elie Saab. His collection was done in shades resembling a Monet.”

Ebru Sipahi, buying manager for women’s designer, Harvey Nichols, Istanbul: “We were pleased with Paris. We have seen many beautiful collections, but Eighties, exaggerated looks were a bit difficult. Overall, we will be spending about 5 to 10 percent less; however, if we are confident in a brand, we may still increase our open-to-buy. Rock-chick fabulousness is one of the most appealing trends for me, skinny pants with boyfriend jackets or a very masculine look with all crystallized items, along with jumpsuits and lingerie-inspired designs. In terms of accessories, Panama hats are a hit, ankle-cuff sandals, extreme platform shoes and Chanel’s feather-trimmed shoes, oversize and jeweled clutches, big bangles and giant necklaces. Our favorite collections were Balmain, Stella McCartney and Chanel.”

 

[Spike413]

A lot of what was said is what I've been thinking. I mean, if you're going to spend money that you can't really justify spending when the economy is so bad, why would you spend it on something that isn't incredibly special?

Thanks for sharing kimair.

 

[DuTTyRoCK112]

They sure love Gucci, don't they. I recall one buyer referring to the collection as "new"?

 

[Alejandro]

^ gucci and balmain...that says it all i think

 

[reese06]

Well since buyers really seem to be loving Gucci, I think it's safe to say that Frida probably won't be going anywhere anytime soon.

 

[DuTTyRoCK112]

There is this interesting dichotomy between the buyers self-professed looking for ''something special'' and their apparent approval of Gucci, which in my opinion offers no special value. I would just like to know specifically what is special today. Is it a palm-printed jersey sundress? Or satin cargo capris?

I could understand if they would just admit that today's customer, for the most part, wants something understandable, easy, uncomplicated, in her immediate pool of reference points. In this instance, I can understand Balmain's popularity because it is obvious, but many of the pieces are also worked to hell. Gucci just seems so... attainable for much cheaper prices elsewhere.

 

[thejarc]

Well since buyers really seem to be loving Gucci, I think it's safe to say that Frida probably won't be going anywhere anytime soon.

Which makes me sad.
She needs to design for a label that isn't as big as Gucci.
That pressure to design things that sell seems to ruin her creativity.

 

[Salvatore]

I cannot believe the praise for Gucci. Luxurious? New? Special and Unique? Were we all looking at the same collection or are they secretly showing other things because none of these adjectives properly describe what I saw!

I agree Milan was quite safe.

 

[JuiceMajor]

Always look forward to this. Interesting reading!

 

[softgrey]

just want to say thanks to KIMAIR for posting all this...

...
will be back to comment once i've had time to look it over and consider...