Calvin Klein Collection Pre-Fall 2013

[Stereo_Flo]

By Nicole Phelps

Monasticism and sensuality. That's an unlikely combination, but it's one that's always turned Francisco Costa on, and he delivered on both fronts with a pre-fall collection that was at once covered-up (we can confidently say we've never seen sheared mink dickies until now) and provocative. The provocation came not only courtesy of the deep-V plunge of a leather tunic and thigh-high slits on narrow, below-the-knee skirts, but also via unusual fabric choices, like the rubberized vinyl of a trenchcoat in a color that Crayola once would've called flesh.

Overall, the silhouette was quite elongated. Costa experimented with narrow shoulders, and full, almost rounded sleeves on jackets with extra-wide lapels. "The future is about new construction," he said after the presentation. "You have to show something new. We really worked on that." Exposed seam allowances on the exterior of the garments could've created a raw, unfinished feeling, but on the contrary, these clothes felt quite polished. Credit for that goes to the luxe, organic materials he juxtaposed that vinyl with—materials like alpaca, double-faced cashmere, and calf. Editors walked out into the December chill wishing for Costa's wide-lapel, double-breasted coat in vicuna.

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[Stereo_Flo]

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[iclawhands]

celine for calvin klein? hehe

 

[Phuel]

The old NY labels are really showing them how it's done-- first Donna Karan, now Calvin Klein's Costa. I love the confidence here. It's monastic but graphic, luxurious but understated. I love that you see the woman, and the clothes are just there to compliment her, and the wearer isn't drowned in "fashion". There's definitely the spirit of Hermes via Margiela, but much like how I felt Donna may be influenced by Ackermann in her new collection but made it all her own, I feel Costa confidently made the Hermes/Margiela-influnece all about Calvin Klein. So beautiful. I love it when designers are able to show restraint.

 

[tangerine]

I don't get Costas at all, once again I find that the clothes mostly look stiff, ill-fitted and plasticky. Ironically, the baby-sh!t colored plastic trench (#8) is my favorite here; it's so ugly it's cool in a punk rock kind of way.

 

[Littleathquakes]

I'm tired of that belt trick. Just put on a belt that fits, you wouldn't have excess.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

My favorite piece has to be the fourth to last dress in black and white. Overall, it's a quite stagnant collection from Costa, tbh. I do appreciate the long silhouettes. While fashion wise, it's not really my kind of taste, you sure can tell the pieces look incredibly luxurious. My god, what I would do to touch the the mink and double-faced cashmere pieces.

 

[LolaSvelt]

The past five or so collections, it's like one terribly long and very dull collection. No progression. Does he not get bored?

 

[elle_gb]

I like it, very clean line and cutting. The silhouette is quite futuristic to me but it's clean.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

The past five or so collections, it's like one terribly long and very dull collection. No progression. Does he not get bored?

really? I think there is very distinct progress to be seen here both color and material wise. I even dare to say it's more wearable for real women than some of his previous autumn offerings.

btw, which one is the vicuna coat?

 

[Jinadaze]

I absolutely love this. The long leather coat with belt with golden hardware is to die for, pure perfection. Love the silhouettes and the use of leather (as always) and the fact that the belts are reversible is a nice graphic touch. And the black deep V-neck top with a complemetary scarf with it, so sexy.
Not so sure about the lenght of the boots, but they fit in.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I like the beginning and end; I don't like the camel or burgundy bits.

 

[tatouejeremie]

the best sleeves i've seen in quite some time

 

[KemAlnagdy]

I quite like it!

 

[justaguy]

There are some really nice pieces here. But I'm seeing a lot of Ralph Laurenish looks too.

 

[liberty33r1b]

wow, this is fantastic!!! really brilliant collection. I'd wear everything tbh

 

[Mockingbird]

I like the style, but I wish some of the pieces were tailored properly. The clothes would look much better on the models without the stretching and wrinkling. My favorite is outfit #4.

 

[WilhelmF]

A much better offering than what Costa did for Spring 2013, which I felt it was the indicator of the direction taken here, only this time it is more polished and refined.

 

[ultramarine]

This is how minimal is done good. I think its a very strong collection with a point of view and something that seems covetable to the clientele.

I think the looks apart even are perfect to many many closets. SO good.