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Calvin Klein Collection S/S 2013 New York

Not just that I like the collection, I adore it and think it's so fresh, feminine and sexy, but in Costa's way. The use of colours would be unnecessary.
 
Definately not what I expected to see. It might sound funny but there is too much going on for me - peplums, necklines, weird-looking skirts. It does not feel pure and some of the dresses would look so much better on Victoria Beckham's runway...
 
Immovable structure, unflattering silhouettes and fabric experimentation; this is a typical Francisco Costa collection. He's sort of a fauvist in the fashion world - he's more interested in the technique and the fabric than the actual practical sense of the garment.
I, for one, love what I immediately labelled the 'Mickey Mouse' cups beneath the dresses, and it's really interesting how the seams don't appear to be sewn together.
A closer inspection is required!
But yes, still, he needs to work on making clothes look nice on human beings.
And as previously stated - he's proven he can do it in the resort collections!
 
Iabsolutely love this! This is such a new take for CK, love love love!
 
I don't totally dislike it, but the it's not that great either.
Some very strange looking silhouettes on display here and hideously ill-fitting around the midriff and bust areas on some dresses.
Also the cups underneath look like 'chicken fillets' on show.....which isn't a great look to be fair.
Hit and miss collection.....but definitely more of a miss.
 
I dislike more than I like, but I like the black spidery overlay, and the trouser cut.
 
We are drawn to gaze behind the structure of the oh so Dior shapes, past the quietitude of a Zenlike palette, to the dripping sensuality within - at the level of fabrication trompe d'oeil and the story of details, weight and length this collection is beautifully and subtely sexual.

I believe the soundtrack to be Carsten Nicolai. It's anyway spiritual minimal techno on the trance.

Nicolai deals in the space between objects or polarities, frequencies. An object (a shape) is seen to have a sound in that it has a perceptual relationship to we, subjects. We can measure sound frequencies, convert them to a visual play of light and photograph it. The object, the form - which could of course be a body in or out of a dress, thus has not only light but sound. Put a different way a garment by itself or when worn on a body can create it's own music. Even if there is silence. The pace of the piece (and the girls exits, how slow and spacey they were) is becalming - perhaps even bewitchingly so. Those who got bored were not paying attention to the sensual detail and will probably by now be off performing some place else.

In the season of will it be Christian or Yves, Francisco Costa out Diored Raf in the way of his reverence for silhouette and, well, reverence. Yet he spoke of raw human truths about passion and desire. Within a structure of demure refinement. Impeccably classical; Barnstormingly of the present.
 

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