Cat Chow

TheSoCalledPrep

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I recently went to see Cat's exhibit at the Society for Contemporary Craft in Pittsburgh.. half art, half apparel, her pieces are truly something to see.

Measuring tape, reams of zippers, and Power Rangers trading cards are not materials often associated with the worlds of high-end fashion and high-end art. In the hands of Chicago-based conceptual artist and fashion designer Cat Chow, however, they are transformed into elegant “sculptural garments” — wearable works of art made from materials most would never associate with clothing.

When she’s not teaching fashion classes at the School of the Art institute of Chicago, or playing various instruments — including a pink, electric Hello Kitty guitar — with painter friend Chris Uphues in electro-pop band Fashion Show, Chow is taking the DIY ethic to unheard-of elevations by creating clothes out of ordinary, everyday objects. And while Chow fully admits that hers aren’t always the most comfortable clothes — How about wearing a sandpaper dress to your next party? — her use of unconventional materials has critics from both art and fashion communities abuzz with praise.

For instance, take the common dollar bill. To create the highly noted Not For Sale, Chow carefully cut 1000 donated dollar bills into 25 strips apiece and then rewove them to compose a floor-length paper evening gown. The impression of minimal, elegant coherency upon initial viewing belies the structure’s staggering intricacy.

Or take the zipper. In Chow’s hands a zipper is not a constructional necessity, but a garment in and of itself, sewn together and zipped up until an entire dress emerges out of a single spool of zipper, such as the one pictured below. Chow’s first zipper dress, entitled undress, landed her top placement in the coveted Gen Art "Avant Garde" category in 2000.

“I inherited patience from my Buddhist father and obsessiveness from my mother,” Chow says of her attentive work ethic. “I find it very meditative and exciting as I watch the fabric grow and the piece develop.”

The transformation of ordinary objects into complex structures could all just be passed off as clever dexterity from a sure-handed craftster, but consider how Chow’s creations address issues of female identity, sexuality, and the multi-faceted dynamics between fashion, art, and commerce. Her other works include Yellow Power Ranger Kimono, a kimono crafted entirely out of Power Rangers trading cards — a wry, if not jabbing, statement that calls attention to the historically submissive status of Japanese women and the growing American fascination with modern Japanese culture. Another piece, entitled Measure for Measure, is made from lengths of measuring tape woven to create a checked housedress and calls to mind images of domesticity and traditional women’s work. Finally, a halter top entitled Interactivewear made entirely out of rubber baby bottle nipples both covers and emphasizes that which it was created to conceal.

The well-conceived titles of such pieces often hint at Chow’s revealing statements on cultural perceptions. “I enjoy coming up with thoughtful titles,” she says. “It adds dimension and strengthens the concept of the work even further.” Perhaps nothing better exemplifies Chow’s brand of provocative feminist commentary and linguistic wit than the three dresses in her White Dress Series: Trained is made up of interlocking white jewelry tags complete with a six foot train, Tied is composed of white sewing bobbins connected by twist ties, and Bonded is an updated version of Chow’s zipper dress, this time in white. Although at first glance, the suggestively matrimonial dresses may allude to bridal bliss, the sinister titles intimate a portrait of female captivity in societal roles.

....she regularly receives commission offers from both private collectors and large corporations, including a recent private commission for a custom-made, Bonded-inspired wedding dress.
 
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Slide Dress
1997
Media: 35mm glass slides and brass rings
Dimensions: 72 x 18 x 18 inches

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the best summary of Cat...

In Cat Chow's garments, we are confronted with the erotic deployment of the body and its coverings, the tie between fashion and fetishism as well as the fashion/art intersection. She is the first to acknowledge the importance of Charles James's architectural forms and spiral zipper, and credits Elsa Schiaparelli with discovering the decorative artifice of zippers. It is what Chow does between these two modes of fabrication--reconfiguring materials from utility to aesthetics--unfastening what should be fastened and then utilizing fasteners as modules of construction that make her fetishes so enchanting. In Feminine Protection (2001), clusters of aluminum washers are connected by copper jump rings and shaped into a clinging sundress. Chow's hands, attaching tiny wires with sharp pliers, look as though they have sprouted pincers, reinventing the masculine protection of chains into feminine veils and fashionable fetishes. Medieval techniques of chain-mail construction, which she studied in a costume shop, are the foundation of her practice as are her symbolic and gendered transformations of defensive function into see-through glamour.

Chow is strategic in her choice of materials that work against their received meaning. Associations of sheaths and shields emerge simultaneously when cardboard lifesaver-shaped bobbins are wrapped with plastic twist ties into a spider-web material, then tied into fantasy raiment. She transforms hard bits and fragments into soft drapes which conform to and protect the female body. They suggest armor worn by a modern day Joan of Arc. Chow's painstaking craftsmanship alludes to more than the rich tradition of women's work because her accomplishment involves several sets of alterations.

In 2003, Chow was featured at the Metropolitan Museum's acclaimed Goddess exhibition with a seamless supple dress crocheted with 1,000 shredded dollar bills. To make this, Chow recruited 1,000 individuals to contribute a dollar. These bills were traded for new ones, which were shredded, stitched and glued into a paper gown that pools at the floor. Cat Chow's cheerful flaunting of the law against mutilation was offset by the considered precision of repeating green and white motifs of George Washington's countenance.

Cat Working with zippers...
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The Zipper Dress, which you have to unzip to the hips to put on. $3,000....

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Bottle Dress (1999)
Media: cork, glass, leather, plastic, water
Dimensions: 72 x 18 x 18 inches

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To create the highly noted Not For Sale, Chow carefully cut 1000 donated dollar bills into 25 strips apiece and then rewove them to compose a floor-length paper evening gown. The impression of minimal, elegant coherency upon initial viewing belies the structure’s staggering intricacy.

She has a list of the people who donated the bills.. and if you look in certain places on the dress, you can see George W peering at you, almost chiding Chow for her defacation of money...

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I would totally wear that dress to prom... but of course, it is NOT FOR SALE
 
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Chow uses alot of chain mail to make items.. very tedious construction process.. in the above photos you can see the bobbin halter top and a few others..
 
Awesome! I love looking at this type of stuff. Thanks, Prep. :flower:
 
Prep--thx for bringing this in:heart:

(I know somebody who did a slide bikini....I'm sure she copied from this:rolleyes:)
 
That's cool
hey i go to school in Pittsburgh!
Never heard of her though
I saw something similar at the senior art student show...a pair of velcro body suits for instance, one side made of the loops, one side made of the hooks...something about love..
 
I was just added to her IQONS entourage and feel so priveleged to be asked to join it! She is an original!
Zurain
 
Stunning architectural design.

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cat-chow.com . chicagoreader.com . artmuseum.msu.edu . wkar.org
 

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