It's Friday afternoon, just three days before Toronto Fashion Week, and I'm chatting with an exhausted 17-year-old. Cate Chant has just returned from New York where she rushed through 24 go-sees in four days, only to return for the shows here. Long, busy days are nothing new for the Chantale Nadeau model. Modelling however, is.
Six months ago Chant had never even walked in heels. More comfortable in boots is the Torontonian, who has spent the last ten years riding horses. Her love of all things equine was so consuming in fact, that she opted for a high school that tailors its teaching for students with special circumstances so she could travel the show jumping circuit.
This is a profile of an overachiever; a girl that last year spent six days a week riding, while maintaining straight-A's in school. She added two classes on top of her regular course load, then spent summer completing two more over the internet to free up additional time for her sporting pursuits.
Today though, both equestrian and essays take a back seat to modelling. The Grade 12 student will still graduate in June and continue to dote on her horses (or as she calls them in a somewhat menacing tone, her "little minions"), but following a last minute summons to Milan in September the fashion industry has been asking for more of Cate; demanding a closer look at a carefully crafted enigma.
After signing her in the summer, New York Models worked relentlessly to sell their vision of Chant. Manhattan options were lined up and the new face was supposed to travel to the Big Apple (where she conveniently has a sister) for the first time following Toronto Fashion Week.
Then everything changed one late September weekend. Chant was at a horse show, and had left her cell phone in the car when she entered the ring. Upon her return she checked her messages, and "there were like ten of them from Chantale, telling me Prada wanted me, and that I had to fly out that evening."
"My booker from New York had called and said I was flying to Milan, and my jaw dropped," says Chant. "I thought 'What? We didn't talk about that kind of arrangement.' I figured I could handle New York and the hour-and-a-half flight, and people that speak the same language. I was shocked when I found out it was Milan."
Back in the U.S. meanwhile, New York Models was removing any reference to Chant from its website, and calling Toronto to make sure no details of the direct-booking were revealed. A new, more exclusive Cate Chant was being devised.
Less than a year ago, Catie (as she is still known to her friends) was reading on a subway when she noticed someone watching her. "I could tell he was staring at me, and I was getting a little creeped out so I moved to the other end of the car." Photographer Justin Borbely wasn't so easily put off however, and followed the intriguing youngster to ask if she had ever modelled. "I said no, because I hadn't, and he said I should and handed me a piece of paper with his email on it... which I put in my jacket pocket and left there for about six months.
In the period that followed more people suggested Chant should give it a shot, and following an early summer meeting with Chantale Nadeau things started to happen. Nadeau introduced her to Sutherland Models, which in turn introduced their new 5'9", brown-eyed brunette to the Toronto fashion industry. Catie became Cate. Other photographers started calling. A book came together. A career started to unfold.
Once modelling became a reality Chant started setting aside time every day to work on her stride. "I was pretty terrible at walking when I first met Chantale," she admits. "I was more like a giraffe, the way they lead with their knees. But I spent pretty much the entire two weeks leading up to Chantale's showcase practicing in heels. After I got signed to a couple agencies I started getting a lot better in heels. Finally I've gotten to the point where I walk well."
Despite having appeared in one of the most prestigious shows in the world she is still driven to be better, so on a Saturday morning - one week before Toronto Fashion Week - I sat in Nadeau's home as Chant took her turn among three others looking to fine tune.
As I rested at the end of the hallway watching Chant glide towards me, pose, gaze, pivot and return, I couldn't help but wonder whether Christopher Michael was feeling more pride or relief. It was early in August that the New York Models booker pleaded for the newcomer's U.S. rights, and it's Michael that deserves the credit for promoting her as the enigmatic girl she is. It was Michael in fact, that put down his own credit card to get a girl he believed in on a last minute flight to Milan.
Following an overnight flight and a short stayover in Brussels, Chant had been taxied straight to a meeting with Miuccia Prada when she landed in Italy, and went to bed that night still not knowing if she would be in the show. The next morning she got confirmation, but Prada is known for pulling girls from the lineup moments before they are scheduled to walk, so New York Models was still insisting on secrecy until her heels had taken her safely around the showroom runway for the assembled fashion media to record.
What was going through Chant's mind, sitting in Pat McGrath's makeup chair, surrounded by the likes of Stam and Sasha? "Mostly just fitting into the dress," she says flatly. "It had very tiny sleeves." What about when they pushed you on stage? "Yeah, really you just go." And when you were on runway? "The only distracting thing was a woman in the front row that had so much Botox."
When asked to describe herself Chant responds with "as someone that would be reluctant to describe herself," but not in a guarded way. She's no prude (in fact I've witnessed a wicked little slice of her humour, although I promised not to talk about that... and anyway, she insists her sister is partially responsible). This is a girl that simply doesn't want to be typecast. Her manner is pleasant, but she's not about to limit her potential by painting a box around herself.
After Milan her name had circulated throughout New York and two weeks later it was time for the model to do the same. Chant, who had spent just five days in the classroom this academic year, was about to miss another full week of school. In the days that followed, while she powered through 24 go-sees in four days, her unique features would appear two places every new model wants to show up: Confessions Of A Casting Director and Models.com.
Around the same time new images appeared on the New York Models website. A new girl emerged to whet the aesthetic appetite of editorial clientele. The photos are of a less touched-up, more natural model. Cate Chant's potential has never been more evident.