Celine Homme S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

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[Phuel]

I like how Hedi puts it. The moment juxtaposed with tradition.

Brilliantly streamlined summation of his designs! He’s always so interesting to observe in interviews: At his very best, he’s pragmatically creative, shrewdly observant, and independently-minded.

Many tend to over-intellectualize his design constructions when the designs spoke for themselves without the need for obnoxious explanations. Even from the very beginning, stating with YSL Men. Of course YSL Men was his most conceptual, even abstract as far as presenting modernity. But he was always consistently steeped in classic menswear and tailoring. And it’s those components that have always been his strongest assets. He was never out to re-conceptualize nor reconstruct menswear in the fashion-for-fashion’s sake that’s now become clownwear with so many others :cough:Comme:cough: And it’s because of this, his sensibilities, going back to YSL Men, remains relevant and not just a sign of its time. He’s very much like Helmut in that sense: Their vision of fashion for men was one that enhanced the wearer in the most primal of visual attraction. Any references to a subculture— whether garage rockers or teddy boys, was always more in the attitude of the branding: The soundtrack, shows, campaigns. While the designs were always Hedi’s own vision of classic modernism. The Misshapes collection did received quite a bit of flack— with accusations of laziness in how the imagery was so literal to its inspiration. Overall, his Dior Homme era was surprisingly versatile in how customers were a diverse lot: teen boys coveting his Dior Homme denim; professionals in their 40s/50s buying his suits; stylish women buying up the coats and jackets.

For someone who’s been at the top of the industry for over 2 decades now, I find the best of his design sensibilities-- as he's already said, have evolved with subtlety to the mood of the fashion times. And we’re not in even decent fashion times these days so that brand of couture-y refinement of YSL and Dior just seems wasted on the current generation. I can forgive him for the occasional stumble these days— even laziness, these days. As people, creatives mature, it’s not unexpected to reject pretentious concepts and strive for a simpler, cleaner and more timeless sensibility. And when his collection, a look is separated from its sometimes desperately-seeking-to-be-down-with-the -kidz styling, there’s quite a lot to be discovered. Again, even in a weaker offering like this collection— and as separates, I see so many options for both men and women— just like in the good ol days of Dior Homme.

 

[Page666]

Actually The kid Georden (Nicoll?) from misshapes copied the shows haircut.. the haircut came from a another boy called Jordan (Cunningham) who was part of the southend scene in the uk.. he was streetcasted with two members of wretched replica (Armen and huw) at a club in elephant and Castle.. the south end scene included the horrors and these new puritans… jordn walked second in that show with his own hair that was given to other boys that Hedi thought it might fit..

 

[Frederic01]

20 years on, Hedi Slimane returns to the Palais de Tokyo with Celine
Closing Paris Fashion Week Men’s, Hedi Slimane’s S/S 2023 menswear collection for Celine saw the designer return to the Palais de Tokyo, where he first showed 20 years ago with Dior Homme


Celine Homme S/S 2023 at the Palais de Toyko, Paris

The Palais de Tokyo, France’s largest gallery of contemporary art, was under construction when Hedi Slimane – then the creative director of DiorHomme – showed an A/W 2002 collection amid its unfinished hallways. Of those in attendance, including the late Karl Lagerfeld and Pierre Bergé, as well as LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, few could have predicted the institute’s impact on fashion – each season numerous shows take place in the venue, including Rick Owens’ famed spectacles on the vast forecourt – nor the enduring cultural significance of Slimane himself, whose singular vision has taken him, in the two decades since, from Dior to Saint Laurent, and now Celine, where he is creative director of the French house’s men’s and womenswear collections.

Celine Homme S/S 2023 collection at Palais de Tokyo


Celine Homme S/S 2023 campaign. Photography by Hedi Slimane

On the evening of Sunday 26 June 2022, marking both the 20th anniversary of the Palais de Tokyo and Slimane’s inaugural show at the venue, the designer returned to present his S/S 2023 Celine Homme collection in one of the museum’s wings that flank the central deco courtyard (the building itself was first opened in 1937 to house the National Museum of Modern Art at the Paris International Exhibition).

‘Hedi wanted to pay tribute to the institution and remember this moment in his menswear reform,’ read the brief accompanying notes, which also cited his fascination for the building’s ‘monumental’ art deco architecture. Outside the venue, Celine was written in lights, becoming ever-more vivid in the fading evening light; beyond the gates, a thousands-strong crowd of mostly teenagers waited for the high-profile attendees to arrive (the loudest screams were reserved for Lisa from South Korean girl group Blackpink, who has previously appeared in Slimane’s collection films).

Such a scene – providing perhaps the most buzzed-about moment of the entirety of men’s fashion month – is a testament to Slimane’s cultural impact, much down to an unrelenting aesthetic vision that is defined by the fusion of the high-luxury of the Celine atelier and a rebellious, rock and roll sensibility. ‘At Celine, I come back to the classic perception of my job from when I started 20 years ago, without any nostalgia,’ Slimane told Le Figaro in a rare interview when starting at the house. ‘All I do is all I am… why should I give up on what defines me?’

Closing Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, under an Alexander Calder-esque mobile designed by Slimane for the occasion, the designer presented a typically impactful collection that riffed on his house signatures while opening up new pathways of vision. The narrow tie on the collection’s opening look seemed to reference the Dior Homme A/W 2002 collection – he was perhaps the first contemporary proponent of the skinny tie, ubiquitous in the 2000s and an enduring accessory in the years since – while narrow leather trousers, pointed boots, requisite dark sunglasses and numerous iterations of the suit (pinstripe, gold embossed crocodile, sequined) recalled the designer’s hallmarks. Moments of couture-like flourish, from dramatic embellishment and intricate beadwork to swishing ankle-length skirts, demonstrated the undeniable power of the Celine atelier. Golden jewellery reflected the mobiles hanging above the space.


Celine Homme S/S 2023 campaign. Photography by Hedi Slimane

Elsewhere, befitting the spirit of the Palais de Tokyo – which Celine’s press notes called ‘a living place of today’s artists, and a platform for emerging talent’ – works by the late Swiss artist David Weiss and young Mexico-based artist Renata Petersen were translated across the collection (Slimane took the collection’s ‘Dysfunctional Bauhaus’ title from one of Petersen’s artworks, here printed on an oversized white T-shirt). Music came from New York-based band Gustaf, whom Slimane commissioned for the show, appearing live on the runway for the finale. ‘Anxious affirmations, existential dread, blind joy… both tense and loose, fluid yet uptight,’ said Celine of their sound, which rang out as Slimane took his final bow – ending a defiant return to the designer’s roots.

WALLPAPER.COM/

 

[tricotineacetat]

Perhaps it's best to compare the zeitgeist of the early 2000s with the 2020s to better understand what is actually different about Hedi and other designer's work then and now - Because the way I see it, Slimane is only but one designer of his generation whose work I have personally gotten estranged to, similar to that of Nicolas Ghesquiere, Raf Simons as well as Rick Owens.

When we look back at the beginning of Hedi Slimane's career, Helmut Lang was still widely celebrated as the designer who led the pack of modern menswear to whom both Hedi and Raf owed a lot in their early career. Alongside Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodriguez and Prada, he nailed the modern wardrobe that Hedi Slimane's YSL Rive Gauche Homme and early Dior Homme collections further refined (The black Dior Homme suiting and infamous Dior Homme jeans being the staples of many men in the 2000s, similar to how Helmut Lang's were about 10 years before). What defined the fashion of these days was how seemingly ageless the appeal of these clothes were - Befittingly, I remember Carine Roitfeld praising in an interview that she, her daughter and her mother could wear the same Helmut Lang coat and look great in it. The same accounted for the majority of fashion Hedi Slimane designed at Dior Homme; regardless of his insistance on teenage models, the most synonymous promoters of the Dior Homme style were the long list of adult celebrity customers: David Bowie, Bryan Ferry, Mick Jagger, Karl Lagerfeld, L'Wren Scott, Linda Evangelista among many more - Reflecting an age demography most demanding sleek and discreet tailoring with a modernist edge.

Fast forward in the 2020s, the luxury goods customer most targeted seems to be a significantly younger one than in the early 2000s. Whether it be the rise of social networks that help brands to engage with even younger audiences or the fact that Generation Z has a significantly bigger spending power than their counterparts in the early 2000s (my generation), I wouldn't know - But it's clear that the approach how fashion is being designed today has accommodated the need for instant brand recognizability on screens and a way of dressing that has become generally more casual, with a little help from the Covid-19 pandemic. Subtle distinguishments of true luxury, like the superior cut of a Jil Sander or Dior Homme jacket from yesterday, probably do not translate into instant validation on screen as a garment that visually pops, like most of these clothes from this collection do...

 

[Drusilla_]

I also still find it too early to bring back this highly passé 2005-07 look. Because truly it is that, it’s not some vintage rocker thing, it’s 2007 MySpace urban outfitters.

I agree it's too soon, but also trend cycles are so predictable despite the "there are no trends!" articles, that it's easy to call it on Hedi's Dior Homme-era/2007 looks actually becoming A Thing again within the next 2-3 years.

I mean, Roberto Cavalli is hot stuff this time around as part of the y2k revival and had far less wide-ranging impact during the 00s than Hedi.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Brilliantly streamlined summation of his designs! He’s always so interesting to observe in interviews: At his very best, he’s pragmatically creative, shrewdly observant, and independently-minded.

Many tend to over-intellectualize his design constructions when the designs spoke for themselves without the need for obnoxious explanations. Even from the very beginning, stating with YSL Men. Of course YSL Men was his most conceptual, even abstract as far as presenting modernity. But he was always consistently steeped in classic menswear and tailoring. And it’s those components that have always been his strongest assets. He was never out to re-conceptualize nor reconstruct menswear in the fashion-for-fashion’s sake that’s now become clownwear with so many others :cough:Comme:cough: And it’s because of this, his sensibilities, going back to YSL Men, remains relevant and not just a sign of its time. He’s very much like Helmut in that sense: Their vision of fashion for men was one that enhanced the wearer in the most primal of visual attraction. Any references to a subculture— whether garage rockers or teddy boys, was always more in the attitude of the branding: The soundtrack, shows, campaigns. While the designs were always Hedi’s own vision of classic modernism. The Misshapes collection did received quite a bit of flack— with accusations of laziness in how the imagery was so literal to its inspiration. Overall, his Dior Homme era was surprisingly versatile in how customers were a diverse lot: teen boys coveting his Dior Homme denim; professionals in their 40s/50s buying his suits; stylish women buying up the coats and jackets.

For someone who’s been at the top of the industry for over 2 decades now, I find the best of his design sensibilities-- as he's already said, have evolved with subtlety to the mood of the fashion times. And we’re not in even decent fashion times these days so that brand of couture-y refinement of YSL and Dior just seems wasted on the current generation. I can forgive him for the occasional stumble these days— even laziness, these days. As people, creatives mature, it’s not unexpected to reject pretentious concepts and strive for a simpler, cleaner and more timeless sensibility. And when his collection, a look is separated from its sometimes desperately-seeking-to-be-down-with-the -kidz styling, there’s quite a lot to be discovered. Again, even in a weaker offering like this collection— and as separates, I see so many options for both men and women— just like in the good ol days of Dior Homme.

I finished writing my post not having read yours so yeah, it does admittedly echo a lot of your thoughts.

That being said, the digging for pieces one truely wants to build a wardrobe with as an adult customer becomes increasingly challenging - With the streetwear often coming deftly embellished with slogans and logos, I find myself limited to the few classical suiting looks per each collection that I'd probably already own, granted I wouldn't already have Hedi Slimane suits in my wardrobe.

 

[disco54]

If the male models did not look like homeless heroin addicts living under an overpass in California, it would be much more appealing.

 

[volft]

That being said, the digging for pieces one truely wants to build a wardrobe with as an adult customer becomes increasingly challenging - With the streetwear often coming deftly embellished with slogans and logos, I find myself limited to the few classical suiting looks per each collection that I'd probably already own, granted I wouldn't already have Hedi Slimane suits in my wardrobe.

I think Hedi and Peter echoes your sentiments. They're the same age as a lot of the Dior Homme fans are now, and it is revealing what they choose to wear themselves. I personally think the leather jacket Hedi wore to the dinner and after party to be very 2010s Saint Laurent-esque. Very tight and cropped in body and sleeves.


Source: Instagram.com

Unless the Dior Homme fan (younger Gen-Xer, Millenial) has kept up with their skincare routine to look young, I don't think the Celine Homme silhouette will be very becoming on them. Hedi understands himself, so he doesn't try to pretend to be someone he's not. What Hedi is wearing looks great on him, but this is really cool dad clothes in 2022. It takes a lot of self-awareness for people to accept they're fine with being told "you dress like my dad". This picture above perfectly captures the Saint Laurent dad with his Celine Homme son.

Here are Hedi's thoughts on personal style:

The style, the personal style in this case, is a discipline made of renunciations. It’s acknowledging who you are and who you’re not. It’s something that is in you and that is stronger than you. Finally, a style is always linked to a time, a period, it resonates with it.

For my own personal style, I resonate more with how Hedi and Peter dresses, than how the Celine Homme boy dresses.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think Hedi and Peter echoes your sentiments. They're the same age as a lot of the Dior Homme fans are now, and it is revealing what they choose to wear themselves. I personally think the leather jacket Hedi wore to the dinner and after party to be very 2010s Saint Laurent-esque. Very tight and cropped in body and sleeves.

View attachment 1208554
Source: Instagram.com

Unless the Dior Homme fan (younger Gen-Xer, Millenial) has kept up with their skincare routine to look young, I don't think the Celine Homme silhouette will be very becoming on them. Hedi understands himself, so he doesn't try to pretend to be someone he's not. What Hedi is wearing looks great on him, but this is really cool dad clothes in 2022. It takes a lot of self-awareness for people to accept they're fine with being told "you dress like my dad". This picture above perfectly captures the Saint Laurent dad with his Celine Homme son.

Here are Hedi's thoughts on personal style:

For my own personal style, I resonate more with how Hedi and Peter dresses, than how the Celine Homme boy dresses.

Ironically enough, I would much rather wear the red 'Boy Doll' leather jacket (if it came in black) rather than the one Hedi is wearing in that picture (which to me, is very much the classic SLP look, that is much beloved and shown by many on Instagram) - I appreciated the new 80ies proportion compared to seeing yet another spray-on leather jacket with a shirt collar and patch pockets. To me, that is not a question of age but rather personal style - Needless to say, the moment you turn around and most of these pieces feature a studded slogan, contrasting fringes or other decorative elements, those pieces are lost to me.

Is this Peter guy the new Kris and Nicolas? I don't know what he looks like, honestly.

 

[volft]

Is this Peter guy the new Kris and Nicolas? I don't know what he looks like, honestly.

He's the Director of Couture and Events, but what that really means I have no clue. He's not part of design, so he's not a Kris or Nicolas. I'm not sure Hedi has any more Kris' or Nicolas'. He says he doesn't have first assistants anymore and does it himself.

This is Peter:

Source: Twitter.com

Ironically enough, I would much rather wear the red 'Boy Doll' leather jacket (if it came in black) rather than the one Hedi is wearing in that picture (which to me, is very much the classic SLP look, that is much beloved and shown by many on Instagram)

Personally, I like it because it is quite casual but still has a mature, serious, and competent feeling. I like the precise and anal feeling it gives off. I acknowledge that this silhouette has over stayed its welcome and is no longer cool. It is what dads wear in 2022.

The modern voluminous silhouette can veer into a more playful vibe, with humour, and that's not really how I want to present myself, but I understand its appeal.

 

[CholoChic]

It has a lot of charm, Heidi, so I will watch the video.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Personally, I like it because it is quite casual but still has a mature, serious, and competent feeling. I like the precise and anal feeling it gives off. I acknowledge that this silhouette has over stayed its welcome and is no longer cool. It is what dads wear in 2022.

The modern voluminous silhouette can veer into a more playful vibe, with humour, and that's not really how I want to present myself, but I understand its appeal.

You do realize your comment is entirely your subjective interpretation of said silhouettes? Nothing wrong, if you consider a tight-fitting leather jacket to give you an 'anal feeling' (not sure what that is?), then of course, by all means, go for it!

Like I said, I think it depends very much on the way each wearer styles an outfit if that comes out as a very trendy look or one that has discreet intricacy. The garments Hedi chooses, much like a lot of designers, tend to often be the ones least embellished - Which is what I also prefer when making my purchases.

In one of your previous answers, you quoted Hedi's point of view regarding the development of a personal style. I think the one sentence you may have put less importance is this one:

"Finally, a style is always linked to a time, a period, it resonates with it."

Coming from my personal point of view, I can tell you that I've worn that spray-on tight jeans and leather jacket look (maybe not head-to-toe Hedi Slimane) for the better part of my 20ies already, so while I know that still works for me, there is no point on furthering on that particular look. I have it in my wardrobe whenever I wanna wear that and there is no point in adding more pieces with slightest variations in color, material or design. I want a variety from the purchases I make, rather than committing to the same 'uniform' every day - After all, you don't want to eat the same thing every day, either.

Moods and attitudes in fashion are changing every so slightly from season to season and I guess since a while, a somewhat looser, new wave kind of influence has shown up in several designer's work - With that coming more generous sleeve trouser volumes that can work in an all-oversized silhouette (as shown by designers like Lemaire) or, as I prefer it, in a more dynamic juxtaposition, like a shorter hemmed, bat-sleeved bomber jacket worn with a narrow trouser or vice versa, a more billowing trouser worn with a fitted top. I am not reading anything humorous about it, just something that gives me more wardrobe options after all.

 

[volft]

You do realize your comment is entirely your subjective interpretation of said silhouettes? Nothing wrong, if you consider a tight-fitting leather jacket to give you an 'anal feeling' (not sure what that is?), then of course, by all means, go for it!

You do realize every post here is the poster's own subjective interpretation, unless they're quoting from someone else, right? Personally, in other to further hammer that point home, I make sure to often add in "personally" to further emphasize that these are my own personal thoughts, so that there can be no confusion. Apparently, it didn't quite work, as it is obvious that you are confused. While I want to give you the benefit of the doubt that you're not being facetious, I can't take you serious for questioning what "anal feeling" means in the context it was used when talking about precision. Let's not kid ourselves here. In the off chance, you were being sincere, and English might not be your first language, I apologize for suspecting your intentions, and my use of colloquialisms that you might not be familiar with.

There's something that just resonates with me when there is no feeling of excess. It is almost like a form of precise minimalism. Personally, I think a skinny silhouette best captures this feeling of precision, because there is no excessive use of fabric. I can't help but feel a sense of overt intention with voluminous pieces. It embellishes the human form, rather than paring it back to the foundations. Personally, I associate someone with a "clean cut" silhouette to be serious, competent, and put together. I associate voluminous/baggy silhouettes with someone who is more louche and carefree. I wouldn't describe Hedi or Peter as looking sexy like how I would describe the ss20's looser silhouette as looking sexy.

Source: Vogue.com

For most people, they will still consider this as a skinny silhouette, but even this is a bit too loose, and relaxed, for my personal taste. I prefer something that gives off a slightly more uptight presentation, and I think Hedi's own personal style nails what I resonate with perfectly.

I want a variety from the purchases I make, rather than committing to the same 'uniform' every day - After all, you don't want to eat the same thing every day, either.

Personally, I'm attracted to the idea of a uniform. I think the first person I discovered having a uniform is Steve Jobs. Aside from Hedi, Rick Owens is another person who likes an idea of a uniform.


Aside from taking less time to decide what to wear, I think there is a bit of similarity with people who like to wear one fragrance, and have a signature scent that others can easily identify them with. Another reason might be the fact how I'm attracted to the fact that characters in plays, movies, and tv shows have similar outfits/uniform throughout the series, and I want a bit of a life imitates art moment for myself personally. While keeping what I wear day to day very similar, I like to vary my accessories and fragrance to modulate my presentation.

Moods and attitudes in fashion are changing every so slightly from season to season and I guess since a while, a somewhat looser, new wave kind of influence has shown up in several designer's work

I first noticed this with Hedi's ss19 collection. I was a bit shocked that the pants were more voluminous than I expected from Hedi. I had to go back to his Saint Laurent collections to realize his ss13 and fw14 collections also showcased more voluminous pants.

While these models look serious, and devoid of humour, looking at the actual outfit makes me personally feel like these looks are almost at opposite extremes of the humour spectrum:

vs

Source: Vogue.com

 

[keviners]

Love it, love it, love it, love it!

 

[YohjiAddict]

Awful collection, desperate and tired. Some outerwear is quite good but as a whole it makes me want to run away as far as I can.