Celine S/S 2024 Paris

[PierreGotha]

TOMBOY LA COLLECTION DE LA BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE RICHELIEU PARIS, MAY, 2023

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[Lola701]

I think this is Spring/Resort and not the main Spring Summer collection.
They usually releases the videos close to the arrival of the clothes in stores…
And it was filmed in May, during resort season, before the menswear/Couture season.


The collection itself is classic Hedi. They all kinda blend with each other at this point.
I think the looks with the heels were elevated and desirable. The brown coat worn over the pink dress was a nice and unexpected combination from Hedi.

I reallly think that this needed to be edited to the max. We don’t need tshirts, hoodies and all that sells anyway…

The Kpop fans are going to go crazy over this nevertheless.

 

[Tchi]

When i see this I see the clothes in a shop. It’s desirable, easy, personal, chic, still recognizable through a coherent styling. This is basically the dream of any ceo (consistent self sustaining business), but comes out of decades of training of a skilled designer who looks around himself and filters contemporary elements through a consistent lens.
I must say thé Céline boutique expérience always stands out compared to thé rest because the soul and quality of the products are undeniably clear to the buyer,
A lot beyond trend to appreciate.

 

[tricotineacetat]

A pity he (or Celine's executives) doesn't seem to believe much in the sales of more elevated daywear, because his dressmaking got better as of late and it would have been smart to cache in from the Chloé flou that has gone missing since Gabriela Hearst. There were a few nice dresses peaking out from underneath I would have loved to see more of and that was about it. He's otherwise shown the same shawl collar tuxedo and 'tube' jackets for years now so no need to comment on that.

All that being said, I wonder how much designing he actively still does - He's perfected the image/creative director part of really nailing down a brand with the best visuals but the clothes are too much a by-product at this point.

 

[Kimihiro]

Hedi really challenging our eyesights. It’s hard to see the clothes. Can do without the merchandise. The few promising dresses makes me think he can try do something more elevated but I guess that would go against this whole easygoing vibe they perfected.

I hope to see those pieces in store. It’s always a delight to go to a Celine boutique.

 

[MulletProof]

love a lockdown production lol.. wonder if everyone felt safe/kept their distance.

 

[Nimsay]

Another selection of irresistable exquisitely made discreet pieces that go into any wardrobe. making anyone stylish. Hedi is the greatest designer working*.


* that is not a couturier.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It's probably not going to happen until the brief of turning Celine into one of LVMH's top performing fashion houses is reached, but I feel creatively this house is a bit too much a 'lifestyle' brand, with dog accessories and the most banal loungewear clothes having to fit into a coherent story telling - I will have to applaud Hedi for managing to do just that and really embracing it instead of keeping the bottom line commercial clothes just stocked on the sales floor.

That being said, I think for his arc as a designer to evolve, he needs to go to a couture maison next and the one making most sense would be Chanel or if Bernard Arnaud wants to keep him, then give him Dior in it's entirety - But who knows, perhaps he feels his Helmut or Tom moment has come sooner than later and he'll resign from designing altogether.

 

[Yasouss]

Beautiful location, HORRIBLE video, its nausea inducing the the cut every 3 seconds.

 

[FashioNarrating]

It's quite telling that the positive comments about his shows in recent years are never really about.. the show, nor about the (non-existent) fashion, but always about how clear his proposition is, how cool the 'elevated basics' look in the store etc. I mean, for the money Celine is charging something should definitely be exceptional (which I would hope is the production quality, and certainly he consistency of presenting the same ever-so-slightly tweaked post-groupie wardrobe and the lure of belonging to Slimane's crowd, I guess), otherwise one can go straight to the next department store and find some fairly non-descript little jackets and shiny dresses from The Kooples or Sandro.
To quote the late great Manuela Pavesi, It will sell, but it's not fashion.

 

[Lola701]

It's probably not going to happen until the brief of turning Celine into one of LVMH's top performing fashion houses is reached, but I feel creatively this house is a bit too much a 'lifestyle' brand, with dog accessories and the most banal loungewear clothes having to fit into a coherent story telling - I will have to applaud Hedi for managing to do just that and really embracing it instead of keeping the bottom line commercial clothes just stocked on the sales floor.

That being said, I think for his arc as a designer to evolve, he needs to go to a couture maison next and the one making most sense would be Chanel or if Bernard Arnaud wants to keep him, then give him Dior in it's entirety - But who knows, perhaps he feels his Helmut or Tom moment has come sooner than later and he'll resign from designing altogether.

Céline is already growing faster than Fendi. So, it’s already one of the top houses…

I don’t think Hedi would want to be at a Couture house if he can’t have his hands an all the entities of the houses. Neither Chanel, Dior would allow for him to be responsible for menswear, womenswear, beauty, communication and all.

Arnault has accommodate everything in his desire. I wouldn’t be surprised that they expand in beauty even more as he launched the skincare line at Dior Homme a long time ago.

And let’s be honest, his level of creativity is probably better for where he is now.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

He needs a runway again with all the moving set pieces and confetti raining down during the finale. I'm getting tired of these choppy videos

I'm sure when I go in store to see it I'll be seduced (I sadly always am lol).

 

[LadyJunon]

love a lockdown production lol.. wonder if everyone felt safe/kept their distance.

Jokes aside, I really like it when brands stages their shows like this, because it allows for a dramatic setting and videography like this. The only brand that has managed to execute that with a live show is Saint Laurent.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Grow up Humbert

 

[Thefrenchy]

I despise what he does there, always have and always will.

He had such a vision at Dior Homme, I will never get over how mediocre his proposal has become over the years.

He's like those people who were once cool but can't swallow that they're getting older. He's forever stuck in 2007 with his perception of what "cool" is, the more years go by the more embarrassing it is to witness. He will always be a stylist for me, not a designer.

Good for the business if that type of stuff sells I guess. But to me, the Celine client is just the cousin of the Dior by MGC client. They think they're cool, but they're dressed by a has-been.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I despise what he does there, always have and always will.

He had such a vision at Dior Homme, I will never get over how mediocre his proposal has become over the years.

He's like those people who were once cool but can't swallow that they're getting older. He's forever stuck in 2007 with his perception of what "cool" is, the more years go by the more embarrassing it is to witness. He will always be a stylist for me, not a designer.

Good for the business if that type of stuff sells I guess. But to me, the Celine client is just the cousin of the Dior by MGC client. They think they're cool, but they're dressed by a has-been.

I would be inclined to agree on that wholeheartedly but then I think of all the designers I loved and respected, who had integrity and a point of view that was not wavering by the sudden change of demands and all of them are vanished from the scene, content to do something else that is not fashion. Thus I would say with a bit of cynism that these kind of collections are what you need to deliver nowadays for a designer like Hedi who is still playing the game.

I'm happy at least there is a provider of the kind of modern wardrobe staples that still make sense, regardless of what the current fashion taste is - The right kind of boot, a chesterfield coat or a suit with great proportions. In the end it doesn't matter if those were from his time at Dior, Saint Laurent or presently Celine, but when you have any of these pieces, they stand the test of time, hold up well and make you look good. I don't think you can say that about a lot of other designers today.

 

[Frederic01]

Was it me or were a lot of the bags in this show quite Chanel looking?


CELINE

 

[Frederic01]

CELINE

 

[yslforever]

If I recall a conversation with someone from the A family, after Phoebe Philo they wanted to turn Celine away from fashion and start a lifestyle brand with this company and Hedi’s brief was «make a lifestyle à la Ralph Lauren but a bit more exclusive, Parisian in style and lot more cooler, with Saint Laurent price-point », if I quote precisely. It was very clear from the beginning, and I believe Hedi completely adhere to this project, not doing fashion but lifestyle, creating a new universe with a whole vestiaire of perfect staple clothes, new beauty, new accessories, and consistency is key, just like Ralph Lauren and Armani. I truely believe it’s Hedi’s goal.
That’s the reason why a lot of pièces or full looks are reminiscent of previous collections. Even the evening dresses look like dresses from his previous eveningwear capsule. But it still feel flat fashion wise, because Hedi’s special talent remains in menswear imho.
This collection is another instance of his menswear being far superior to his womenswear.
Also I agree about the comments, about
their retail experience, imho Celine SAs come on the second place just behind the Hermès ones, because of their kindness, easygoing vibe and attention to the customers (Bizarrely I would put LV on 3rd)

 

[PierreGotha]

I have to wait for the official stills in order to absorb all of this collection. This show is obviously designed to be cut off and presented as reels or TikTok posts.


Hedi is a seductress, whether he's too polarizing to self-referential. He knows his audience and he knows where to get his ethos.

In this collection, It seems that he has been looking at how Gen-Z style and wear their thrift finds, either on TikTok or Instagram. The entire wardrobe and fashion direction is not a direct reference to the already climaxed y2k style but a perspective on how the new generation perceives it in a Slimane manner. We can also see their focus on pushing the triomphe motif, and how it becomes the bread and butter of the brand. From Sunglasses, Belts and Bags. People are actually getting into it, regardless of their K-pop affiliation.

In his previous collections, he showcased a lot of minor lines some gained traction; like the Ava and Romy. But Triomphe remained their forerunner. For me, this is fitting because it is directly connected to the brand's history. More aligned with what Phoebe has done.