CEOs & Fashion Houses

Creative

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Hello!

Since fashion these days is almost more about CEOs than designers, I think it's not a bad idea to create a thread to gather the news about recent hirings, strategies, successes, flops, etc.

I will start with an obvious one:

Chanel
Alain Wertheimer - till Dec2021
Jan 2022 - Leena Nair

You can basically tell that there's no fashion understanding in her approach. I feel like Chanel started a very grey era since she joined. Is it just me? Is she in good terms with Bruno?
 
Chloé

Riccardo Bellini Dec2019 - Dec2023 (4 years)
Laurent Malecaze Jan2024
 
It’s crazy how they made Tom Ford such a household name in such a short period of time. It must be one of the very few cases in recent history, right? That one and Off White maybe

IMHO TF and The Row are the only two American luxury brands in this market. The reason is that he could success in such a short period is that he has solid foundation from menswear...which allows him to explore other fields. And Tom has a good business partner. Kering should have hired Domenico as a consultant lol

Marco Gobbetti
Celine : till 2016
Burberry : 2016- 2021 July
Ferragamo : 2021 - 2025
 
Dior
Sidney Toledano till end of 2017
Pietro Beccari 2018 - 2022 (beginning of 2023)
Delphine Arnault Feb2023
 
^^
Sydney Toledano from 1998 to 2017. He joined Dior/LVMH in 1993 at the leather goods department and the first bag under his management was the Lady Dior.
It’s crazy how they made Tom Ford such a household name in such a short period of time. It must be one of the very few cases in recent history, right? That one and Off White maybe
Tom and Dom had 10 years of experience at Gucci and YSL. That’s why they didn’t made some of the same mistakes.
He used licenses in a clever way. He had enough money to set up his studio in London. They used licenses for the production and distribution of the menswear, fragrances and eyewear which can be difficult but with the right partners, it works. They only launched womenswear after 5 years and had a lot of stores through franchises.

For me Off White is not a good example of a household name.

However, I think Thom Browne is. And what they have achieved in such a short period is impressive.
Hello!

Since fashion these days is almost more about CEOs than designers, I think it's not a bad idea to create a thread to gather the news about recent hirings, strategies, successes, flops, etc.

I will start with an obvious one:

Chanel
Alain Wertheimer - till Dec2021
Jan 2022 - Leena Nair

You can basically tell that there's no fashion understanding in her approach. I feel like Chanel started a very grey era since she joined. Is it just me? Is she in good terms with Bruno?
Before Alain Weirtheimer, it was Maureen Chiquet. And again, she came from GAP.
 
Louis Vuitton

Henry Racamier 1977 - 1989
Yves Carcelles 1990 - 2012
Michael Burke 2012 - 2023
Pietro Beccari 2023
 
^Maureen Chiquet - CHANEL - 2007-2016

I remember Maureen Chiquet was very very close to a NYC jewelry designer called Eddie Borgo, which I found it odd. What did she want from him?

 
For me Off White is not a good example of a household name.
I think this brand will come to an end soon, and Tom Ford will stay, but almost every kid in the world wanted a pair of their sneakers or an ugly T-shirt from them…

I don’t remember a designer brand being that viral, not even Wang in his peak, no?
 
IMHO TF and The Row are the only two American luxury brands in this market. The reason is that he could success in such a short period is that he has solid foundation from menswear...which allows him to explore other fields. And Tom has a good business partner. Kering should have hired Domenico as a consultant lol

Marco Gobbetti
Celine : till 2016
Burberry : 2016- 2021 July
Ferragamo : 2021 - 2025
Insane how Gobbetti has a fantastic track record in great and important brands and yet Ferragamo in his tenure was a car wreck lol what was it that went oh so wrong?

@Creative do we have any intel on the new Jil Sander CEO, Serge Brunschwig? Interested to discover what JS will turn into with him
 
Insane how Gobbetti has a fantastic track record in great and important brands and yet Ferragamo in his tenure was a car wreck lol what was it that went oh so wrong?

@Creative do we have any intel on the new Jil Sander CEO, Serge Brunschwig? Interested to discover what JS will turn into with him
Celine and Givenchy successful yes, but Burberry and Ferragamo quite a mess.
The former two brands had professional, experienced management LVMH figures, both brands were also very much under the direction/creative control of their CD's. I did hear from a friend that Burberry management suite thought Gobbetti was behind the driving force behind Celine's big success, and the friend (who worked at Celine with PP) was saying well they'll soon realise it was very much PP's strong vision and relentlessness on design, distribution etc.
Ferragamo family is known to be difficult to work with, and think there is a lot of management level disagreements, it seems to be also unclear what they are expecting their brand to become stylistically and strategically market-wise.
 
Insane how Gobbetti has a fantastic track record in great and important brands and yet Ferragamo in his tenure was a car wreck lol what was it that went oh so wrong?

@Creative do we have any intel on the new Jil Sander CEO, Serge Brunschwig? Interested to discover what JS will turn into with him
Serge Brunschwig comes from LVMH.
Him leaving LVMH is actually a surprise. He comes from Polytechnique (the same school as Bernard Arnault) and has made almost all his career at LVMH.

He was the CEO of Dior Homme, then took Fendi. He never had a strong highlight (unlike Pietro) and Fendi after Karl didn’t thrived so I guess the divorce wasn’t happy with LVMH.
From Sephora to Louis Vuitton and Celine, he had a bunch of executive roles at LVMH.

I feel like Pietro Beccari was his big competition in the group. While Michael Burke turned Fendi into a stable and profitable business (because LVMH overpaid to acquire them), it is Pietro Beccari who made Fendi reach the 1 billion club.

Yes Serge experienced the death of Karl and the pandemic but Loewe and Celine became bigger than Fendi during his tenure.

But he has the capacities to drive a business like Jil Sander.
 
Serge Brunschwig comes from LVMH.
Him leaving LVMH is actually a surprise. He comes from Polytechnique (the same school as Bernard Arnault) and has made almost all his career at LVMH.

He was the CEO of Dior Homme, then took Fendi. He never had a strong highlight (unlike Pietro) and Fendi after Karl didn’t thrived so I guess the divorce wasn’t happy with LVMH.
From Sephora to Louis Vuitton and Celine, he had a bunch of executive roles at LVMH.

I feel like Pietro Beccari was his big competition in the group. While Michael Burke turned Fendi into a stable and profitable business (because LVMH overpaid to acquire them), it is Pietro Beccari who made Fendi reach the 1 billion club.

Yes Serge experienced the death of Karl and the pandemic but Loewe and Celine became bigger than Fendi during his tenure.

But he has the capacities to drive a business like Jil Sander.
This expands my interest in him as a CEO. HOW did OTB manage to get him? from LVMH of all places??
 
This expands my interest in him as a CEO. HOW did OTB manage to get him? from LVMH of all places??
Oh there’s what I call, a magic in the informality of the business sometimes.
He was the CEO of Fendi, which is one of the top 5 brands of LVMH. He was showing in Milan and I guess that those people know each other or of each other…From Renzo Rosso to Remo Ruffini and others.

There’s a reality at LVMH: there aren’t a lot of places next to the sun. So when you are demoted from your position as the CEO of Fendi, what’s next?

I suspect that he was in talks with Rosso before and did the deal from the moment that he left LVMH. And now, he also has an executive position at OTB.

And the challenge is great. And from work/life balance, it may suits him well to still work in Italy.
 
Insane how Gobbetti has a fantastic track record in great and important brands and yet Ferragamo in his tenure was a car wreck lol what was it that went oh so wrong?

@Creative do we have any intel on the new Jil Sander CEO, Serge Brunschwig? Interested to discover what JS will turn into with him
Tbh, not much. He had very important roles at LVMH, so it’s very weird that he is taking Jil Sander now. At LVMH it’s really bad seen to move to houses generating less revenue, so… I don’t know.

To go from Fendi and Dior to Jil Sander is such a weird move, especially when you have the same position. I guess they are paying him a lot.

Before him the strategy at JS was terrible. They were wasting a lot of money in important locations with very bad results, the stores lasted like a year or so and they were selling… nothing. I was impressed because they would open right away when other big groups would think twice about it (no one is investing much atm) and sometimes those big groups decided even not to open.

I think Jil Sander is such a tough house to work for. I think it’s like Calvin Klein, kind of a constant flop. It also kind of reminds me to Alaïa, and I believe Alaïa’s success would be very hard to replicate.

It would only work with Daniel Lee.
 
Valerie Hermann
Yves Saint Laurent CEO (with Stefano Pilati) : 2005-2011
Reed Krakoff CEO : 2011 - 2014
Ralph Lauren : 2014 - 2020 (not CEO but in charge their luxurt line in the first few years them global brand)
EPI Group : 2020 - now (Owner of Bonpoint & J.M.Weston, but she just sold Bonpoint)

She and Pilati launched a series of successful bags and shoes (please bring back Muse! It's chicer than their fake-Kelly bag called Manhatten) which turned YSL profitable.

gettyimages-168465838-612x612.jpg
 
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Sources Say Miu Miu’s New CEO Is Silvia Onofri​

Onofri, previously president of Napapijri, is expected to succeed Benedetta Petruzzo, who joined Christian Dior Couture as managing director in October.

MILAN — Silvia Onofri is expected to be named chief executive officer of Miu Miu, according to market sources.

Onofri would succeed Benedetta Petruzzo, who joined Christian Dior Couture as managing director in October.

Onofri hails from outerwear brand Napapijri, where she held the role of president. She was named to that post in February 2023, succeeding Massimo Ferrucci, after a 20-year career in fashion at luxury companies such as Bulgari and Bally. Napapijri is under the VF Corp. umbrella.

At Napapijri, Onofri named its first global creative director, Christopher Raeburn, the British designer known for his sustainable credentials as a recycling and upcycling fashion pioneer.

Onofri joined Bally in 2008 and was global travel retail trade marketing manager before being named in July 2018 CEO for the brand’s Europe, Middle East and Africa region. At the time, Frédéric de Narp was Bally’s CEO. She was tasked with overseeing brand operations in the region in addition to her role as vice president of global wholesale.

Miu Miu is experiencing phenomenal growth. In the nine months ended Sept. 30, the brand’s retail revenues soared 97 percent in the period to 854 million euros. Miu Miu accounts for 25 percent of parent Prada Group sales, and showed an acceleration in the third quarter as revenues in that period jumped 105 percent.

Commenting on the performance at the end of October, Prada Group CEO Andrea Guerra said that, after growing like-for-like for the past two to three years, the plan is to expand Miu Miu store space, especially in Europe. The Continent, he said, is “standing out” for the brand, where investments were channeled the most in the past 24 months, with a very positive response. “The U.S. is still smaller for Miu Miu, and we have begun to to invest properly in that market, but it will take time,” he said.

At the end of last month, Lyst confirmed Miu Miu remains in the top spot as it released its hottest brands ranking for the fourth quarter of 2024. In terms of most in-demand products, Lyst cited Miu Miu’s fleece jacket.

The brand has been successfully growing its leather goods category, with hits such as the Wander and Arcadie bags, and it has been expanding the range in the matelassé craftsmanship, where panels are doubled with wadding and elastic cloth, and then quilted.

While Miuccia Prada remains creative director of the brand, Miu Miu’s ready-to-wear design director Dario Vitale exited at the end of January, succeeded by Francesca Nicoletti, as reported.
 

Sources Say Miu Miu’s New CEO Is Silvia Onofri​

Onofri, previously president of Napapijri, is expected to succeed Benedetta Petruzzo, who joined Christian Dior Couture as managing director in October.

MILAN — Silvia Onofri is expected to be named chief executive officer of Miu Miu, according to market sources.

Onofri would succeed Benedetta Petruzzo, who joined Christian Dior Couture as managing director in October.

Onofri hails from outerwear brand Napapijri, where she held the role of president. She was named to that post in February 2023, succeeding Massimo Ferrucci, after a 20-year career in fashion at luxury companies such as Bulgari and Bally. Napapijri is under the VF Corp. umbrella.

At Napapijri, Onofri named its first global creative director, Christopher Raeburn, the British designer known for his sustainable credentials as a recycling and upcycling fashion pioneer.

Onofri joined Bally in 2008 and was global travel retail trade marketing manager before being named in July 2018 CEO for the brand’s Europe, Middle East and Africa region. At the time, Frédéric de Narp was Bally’s CEO. She was tasked with overseeing brand operations in the region in addition to her role as vice president of global wholesale.

Miu Miu is experiencing phenomenal growth. In the nine months ended Sept. 30, the brand’s retail revenues soared 97 percent in the period to 854 million euros. Miu Miu accounts for 25 percent of parent Prada Group sales, and showed an acceleration in the third quarter as revenues in that period jumped 105 percent.

Commenting on the performance at the end of October, Prada Group CEO Andrea Guerra said that, after growing like-for-like for the past two to three years, the plan is to expand Miu Miu store space, especially in Europe. The Continent, he said, is “standing out” for the brand, where investments were channeled the most in the past 24 months, with a very positive response. “The U.S. is still smaller for Miu Miu, and we have begun to to invest properly in that market, but it will take time,” he said.

At the end of last month, Lyst confirmed Miu Miu remains in the top spot as it released its hottest brands ranking for the fourth quarter of 2024. In terms of most in-demand products, Lyst cited Miu Miu’s fleece jacket.

The brand has been successfully growing its leather goods category, with hits such as the Wander and Arcadie bags, and it has been expanding the range in the matelassé craftsmanship, where panels are doubled with wadding and elastic cloth, and then quilted.

While Miuccia Prada remains creative director of the brand, Miu Miu’s ready-to-wear design director Dario Vitale exited at the end of January, succeeded by Francesca Nicoletti, as reported.
oooofff she has a tough job going in there. I mean her key task will basically be to sustain the success and she probably wont have a chance to 'freestyle' whatsoever.. AND within Prada Group.. bet she is one tough cookie
 

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