Chanel Haute Couture S/S 2023 Paris

[Lola701]

Clients seemed happy with the collection on Instagram, it will probably sell well.

It’s Chanel. It always sells well…
Mostly because of daywear. But does that matter in judging the collection? Not really…

 

[gallianostan]

this won't sell well because viard's designs are interesting, unique or innovative. it will sell well because it's chanel. the house has a practically abusive chokehold on wealthy but tasteless whores across the world.

 

[Beun]

who would be a good fit for Chanel ?

Haider

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I’m probably in the minority here, but I don’t hate it, at least not all of it. While there isn’t anything entirely new, there are new things for her such as volume and texture which she never attempted to explore. The proportions and silhouettes are reminiscent of Karl which is probably why I like them. Obviously most of evening wear is atrocious, but that’s to be expected at this point. Looks 30-36 should have been cut as well as 20-23. Even with those looks gone we still have a collection of about 40 looks which is what she should aim at. What is going to sell is the tweed looks anyways, so It’s a good thing that she is capable maintaining that category for clients. There is also some excellent black and white evening wear that is more in tune with the Karl aesthetic. I can forgive the bow ties and hats as they don’t distract from the pieces that are good. With that being said, do I think she has a distinct point of view? No, but this collection is a step in the relight direction. I just wish someone in her team would speak up and tell her that no one is loving her unflattering and frumpy jumpsuits.

 

[LadyJunon]

I’m probably in the minority here, but I don’t hate it, at least not all of it. While there isn’t anything entirely new, there are new things for her such as volume and texture which she never attempted to explore. The proportions and silhouettes are reminiscent of Karl which is probably why I like them. Obviously most of evening wear is atrocious, but that’s to be expected at this point. Looks 30-36 should have been cut as well as 20-23. Even with those looks gone we still have a collection of about 40 looks which is what she should aim at. What is going to sell is the tweed looks anyways, so It’s a good thing that she is capable maintaining that category for clients. There is also some excellent black and white evening wear that is more in tune with the Karl aesthetic. I can forgive the bow ties and hats as they don’t distract from the pieces that are good. With that being said, do I think she has a distinct point of view? No, but this collection is a step in the relight direction. I just wish someone in her team would speak up and tell her that no one is loving her unflattering and frumpy jumpsuits.

You're, it's the eveningwear, where her worst weaknesses are. Especially, when that last third of a runway show is supposed to be the most eye-catching part of it.

 

[Caffeine]

It’s Chanel. It always sells well…
Mostly because of daywear. But does that matter in judging the collection? Not really…

I think they have pushed too far in order to reach ever higher margins. I suspect you've looked at the latest Act I collection. Since a couple of seasons ago, they have cut down the jacket fabric inside the lining in the name of "making lighter jackets". As we age and potentially gain weight, we used to be able to alter the jackets and make them grow with us over the years, this option is being removed gradually. It's not for the weight; it is for margin.

Then the tweed. When was the last time they utilized a solid Lesage tweed in their offerings? Metiers in 2021? When was the last time they used pure wool/cashmere in their pants offerings? I don't even know.

I'm sure all those logo pieces do incredibly well with Asia's consumers in their 20s, but they deviate from modern women's (not "girls'") lifestyle in the west.

 

[MDNA]

If she wants to make bow tie a thing at least putting it on every models, and that closing bridal look…Anna sweetie I’m so sorry.

 

[style_expert]

Karl left behind such a strong Chanel brand and I feel like Virginie is now holding onto the last threads of his incomparable performance. She could survive on it because Chanel is indeed selling extremely well in almost all markets and categories. But I think it has very little to do with her.

Chanel is Chanel of course and no doubt it will always sell but it could be that the Wertheimers are mistaking the image that Karl through all his grandiosity and genius built with an inherent, unchangeable strong brand at the core. Nothing is forever and even the biggest brands can erode surely and slowly by making mistakes geared at even higher profits and revenues.
A ship can maybe move forward with any captain, but to create a more eventful journey, you really need someone with moreof a vision.

We can only hope Virginie is the intermissive act before another genius enters the game (I hope Haider).
Isn't there a plan in France to increase the retirement age from 62 to 64? Maybe they can make an exception for Virginie now she's approaching that age

 

[LadyJunon]

Isn't there a plan in France to increase the retirement age from 62 to 64? Maybe they can make an exception for Virginie now she's approaching that age

It won't be executed before 2030.

 

[TaylorBinque]

God awful collection. And her accessories are not great either. Being Chanel, it will always sell. A lot of Asians are "investing" in Chanel handbags. But she could have give something. Like something!

 

[lagerfeld]

This sucks, as a Chanel fan I tried to force this, but I can't, there's nothing here good enough to praise, Virginia has a goal...kill Chanel asap

 

[Drusilla_]

I like the black-tipped boots, that's all I can say.

 

[Squizree]

I can't with people acting like this is some grand departure from Karl's work. If you didn't know Karl was dead you'd barely differentiate this collection. Which is obviously the point. They'd be idiots to move an INCH from this.

Chanel is basically the French Ralph Lauren (but much better quality). People have found it boring for decades, but the diehard Karl stans are only just catching on now.

 

[Avonlea]

I can't with people acting like this is some grand departure from Karl's work. If you didn't know Karl was dead you'd barely differentiate this collection.

Under Karl each outfit was impeccably made. The fit and construction were perfect. Even if the actual design was not your cup of tea it still looked expensive and screamed quality.
Virginie is trying to do Karl but she fails miserably. She doesn't have the eye and her taste in fabrics, embroideries and colors is questionable.

 

[LadyJunon]

I can't with people acting like this is some grand departure from Karl's work. If you didn't know Karl was dead you'd barely differentiate this collection. Which is obviously the point. They'd be idiots to move an INCH from this.

Chanel is basically the French Ralph Lauren (but much better quality). People have found it boring for decades, but the diehard Karl stans are only just catching on now.

Karl's clothes were considerate of the proportions of the clothes in relation to each other and the body and had the techniques needed to execute a sort of "weightlessness". Silvia obviously learnt that from him as she executes that "weightlessness" very well. I'm also assuming that MGC learnt that "weightlessness" from her time at Fendi too. Meanwhile, Virginie's clothes continue Karl's aesthetic, but they deflate and look heavy.

 

[style_expert]

I can't with people acting like this is some grand departure from Karl's work. If you didn't know Karl was dead you'd barely differentiate this collection. Which is obviously the point. They'd be idiots to move an INCH from this.

Chanel is basically the French Ralph Lauren (but much better quality). People have found it boring for decades, but the diehard Karl stans are only just catching on now.

Are we really looking at the same?
Apart from the difference in the technical finesses that Virginie clearly lacks, I think Karl had a lot of fun with Chanel. It was very well made but also light-hearted and uplifting in a way. Karl was never one to take himself too seriously, probably partly because he knew Chanel was superior to most other brands in terms of quality and craftsmanship.
I think Virginie is really lacking that confidence somehow and it also looks like she hardly enjoys taking the leading role. It all feels more heavy since she is there.

 

[Drusilla_]

Are we really looking at the same?
Apart from the difference in the technical finesses that Virginie clearly lacks, I think Karl had a lot of fun with Chanel. It was very well made but also light-hearted and uplifting in a way. Karl was never one to take himself too seriously, probably partly because he knew Chanel was superior to most other brands in terms of quality and craftsmanship.
I think Virginie is really lacking that confidence somehow and it also looks like she hardly enjoys taking the leading role. It all feels more heavy since she is there.

This is spot-on - Karl's Chanel was so playful in the 90s and 00s, it was actually desirable to younger women on the merits of design. He genuinely had a good eye for making potentially stodgy offerings seem youthful - remember the milk carton or hula hoop bags? The shorter/cropped tweeds in the 00s? Chanel being the first to put sneakers in a couture show c. 2014? It took a certain level of audacity to go there, which I think Virginie doesn't really have - her clothes are fine, not even all that bad, but without Karl's fairy dust it all just feels a bit deflated.

 

[Frederic01]

LOIC PRIGENT

 

[Lola701]

^^
This time, not even Prigent’s heavy PR can save this collection…