Christopher John Rogers F/W 2025.26 New York

[LadyJunon]

credit: vogue

 

[Phuel]

He’s carrying on and owning that classic American sportswear sensibility of nonfussy, unpretentious and most importantly— Phoebe-free designs. In an American fashion era seeped in clownwear/dragwear/ragwear/Phoebewear, his is refreshingly classic but never budget. And he’s come a long way from his sloppy budget start, investing in solid construction, tailoring, fit, and no nonsense prettiness without the Barbie-saccharine. And not a whiff of that obnoxious 90s nostalgia either. The suiting with the minimal Helmut Lang-ish stripes are really good.

Now he needs to invest in stronger, highend footwear. But baby steps, Chris.

 

[WAVES]

oh I need to watch the show properly I’m invested!

 

[Lola701]

He is one of the few trying in NYFW.
This collection needed a bit of editing, a better cast and a better venue but it’s unmistakably HIM! And for that, I applaud!

 

[Alquimista]

it has colours, nice shapes. a bit tooo formal for rtw but a woman need a dress, right.

beautiful shape here and nice construction here

 

[jeanclaude]

The colour palette is depressing.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

If this had less muted earthy toned colours and more enriched jewel tones I’d like it more. That also the makeup and hair is a bit fussy, especially when the hair in the way of the necklines/collars.

All in all though, it’s a breath of fresh air for NYFW and is such an honest point of view. I like where he’s going and excited to see more down the line. Still needs an edit in parts, either for the line up or even the designs themselves. Still a lovely showcase though. And I’m not mad at the venue, just a styling and casting needs a boost so a location like this can actually still work.

 

[LadyJunon]

The collection looks even better on video:

 

[TianCouture]

This really is such a fabulous collection. Love that for him and his brand. Hope he is well worn at this years Met

 

[eugenius]

Somebody wrote that this reminds them of the old Todd & Isaac shows from the 90’s, and I’m not mad at that at all.

All in all, it’s a pretty solid collection. A definite stand-out show from NY this time around.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Somebody wrote that this reminds them of the old Todd & Isaac shows from the 90’s, and I’m not mad at that at all.

All in all, it’s a pretty solid collection. A definite stand-out show from NY this time around.

I love Todd but there no todd here. I'm happy to color tho

 

[rowjellies]

Do his clothes even sell? At least he doesn’t chase trends but it feels like his collections are designed in a echo chamber

 

[Phuel]

^^^ He does have stockists, along with his collection being available on his own site: What you see in his shows is what is available to order. It’s all very refreshingly unpretentious, accessible and pragmatically curated to sell to a very real mainstream customer— not some ideal phantom clientele. Don’t get the impression he’s designing for editorial and social baiting just to sell basic merch; not a logo’d hoodie and tee in sight.

Somebody wrote that this reminds them of the old Todd & Isaac shows from the 90’s, and I’m not mad at that at all.

All in all, it’s a pretty solid collection. A definite stand-out show from NY this time around.

His sensibility and deign are more refined, sophisticated and just straightup more interesting than Todd’s and Isaac’s, frankly. The colourful easygoing joy and energy of theirs is absolutely an American tradition he’s carrying on. But thankfully Todd’s camp and kitsch, along with Isaac’s very basic Vogue Pattern approach is not a part of his design vocabulary. And they had Supers on their side, while he’s only got a cast of plain Janes. Maybe if he had a stronger casting, his brand would have a stronger impact. But the hair and makeup is more of an issue than his casting. If his casting had a more sultry makeup palette in the spirit of Bianca Jagger and Diana Ross, then his shows would instantly and easily improve by bounds already.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^ Also I’d like to say that to me, his sensibility more or less aligns with the likes of Geoffrey Beene and Patrick Kelly. Gorgeously accessible and as you say, unpretentious.

 

[Nimsay]

I know you’re not talking about issac mizrahi as if he wasn’t in the khia asylum.

 

[LadyJunon]

I know you’re not talking about issac mizrahi as if he wasn’t in the khia asylum.

And I thought I was the zoomer of the forum.

 

[Phuel]

I remember that part in the Mizrahi doc (hilariously delusional of how important he was convinced he was as a designer BTW) where his grandmother was hyping him like the second coming just coz he decided to stick some plastic daisies on her flip-flops when he was 4yo… Isn’t that just instinctive of every 4yo girl??? Take away the Superfriends, and he was just ripping off Zoran and putting huge elastic waists on ballgown skirts. Mizrahi has taught us 90s kids to be highly suspect of any brand that relies on Supers and celebs for their shows and campaigns, it’s usually to disguise mere mediocrity (…See current-day Alaia’s campaign where Daria alone is enough o have people swooning and forgiving the generic Shein/Temu designs and new-model-posing-right-in-the-hallway-of-the-agency style of photography. Supers really do wonders on people’s perception of a brand: If only Christopher had the budget to cast an army of Supers...

 

[susseinmcswanny]

The new Alaia does have its moments for me tbh, but it's so true how easy it is to bait people into speaking highly of something based on some mass consensus of that thing, in turn giving them validation for their "correct" opinion lol (i.e. Daria, Theyskens, tbt when people pretended to know who Jurgi was or Miguel Adrover lol, blah blah blah) And in addition to that I don't know I'm so tired of the supermodel stuff. It feels too low effort. Sometimes it works for me like when that new guy started at Ann D I loved seeing Natasa, but ex. when Dilara used Lara the other day it felt so lame...

 

[Phuel]

OMFG didn’t even realize that was Lara LMFAO Unfortunate that they didn’t even bother to conceal Lara’s throbbing red nose…

(And it’s why I sort of lowkey stan Rick always opening his shows with our beloved Tyrone: Tyrone is as much a repellent as he is an attraction— depending on who you ask. And Rick stands by his boytoy no matter the opinion. ...I’d like to believe we will all find our very own boytoy to be so dedicated to..:sigh:…)

 

[tourbillions]

dont see what everyone else is seeing. it doesnt look modern and the fitting/tailoring leaves a lot to be desired. Where is his woman going with these clothes. who is she, does she exist at all in 2025 and why would she wear these everyday or in every occasion