Comme des Garcons Homme Plus S/S 2015 Paris

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June 27, 2014 Paris

By Tim Blanks

For a hundred or so years, from the late 14th century onward, a fashion persisted in Europe for a style of shoe called the krakow, with a toe so extravagantly long (called a poulaine) that it sometimes needed a whalebone or a string tied to the knee to keep it from getting in the way while its wearer was walking. At the Battle of Nicopolis in 1396, when the Ottomans routed an army of European crusaders, the French contingent was forced to cut off the tips of their poulaines in order to beat a speedy retreat. Proving such a hindrance on the battlefield would surely qualify the krakow as the early instrument of a proto-anti-war movement. That notion certainly applied to its modern-day variant as seen in today's mesmerizing Comme des Garçons show, in which the toes of shoes curled like long, thin tusks and the clothes were the sartorial embodiment of anti-war sentiment. "Soldier of Peace" was the slogan graffitied on one brass-buttoned, militarily precise shorts suit, alongside the words "Peace, Love, Empathy."

It is impossible to be a thinking person and not be mortified by the world's descent into sectarian mayhem, from Nigeria to Syria to Ukraine, and beyond that, to the school shootings, the rapes, the acts of random violence that darken the urban landscape by the day. And Rei Kawakubo is a thinking person. But her protest was mostly in the form of metaphor, those few word pieces aside. The show opened with cadet-smart outfits infected with primal animal prints, which were quickly joined by camouflage netting overlays, like an effort to cage the beast within. Another print looked like a child's scribble of shells exploding in the sky, a reminder of who war's real victims usually are. A double-breasted suit in lilac silk shantung, as straightforwardly alluring as any item Kawakubo has ever shown, was ensnared in a camo netting coat, which maybe had something to say about the way that war camouflages beauty. "Anything war can do, peace can do better" was the expression of optimism on the back of one of the finale's graffiti pieces. They're only words, but words are all we have. And that might have been Kawakubo's final, poignant comment on our fundamental powerlessness in the face of the global epidemic of violence. Still, in the context of a Paris fashion week, her statement had a sledgehammer force.

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[Scott]

those exaggerated shoes are certainly a showstopper. much to appreciate here...i love the officer's jackets....the webbed jumpers....i even quite enjoy the group with the stars.

 

[MulletProof]

in a way she nailed it with these botas tribaleras because for some reason I immediately associate them with AK-47s..

 

[krncandi]

Loved this collection. And the shoes add such drama.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

all i can think of is overgrown horse's hooves!

love the hole-y sweaters, the splotchy star pieces ... and the hair!

 

[elle_gb]

Weird but cool!!

 

[margielamike2004]

This was about heightened masculinity, but not the benefits and beauty of machismo, but rather the horror that violent, angry mankind can do. That's why Kawakubo seemed to be ridiculing the staples men turn to feel strong - so she'd toyed with military uniforms, slashed suits, and extended the toes of pointed shoes so far that the ends curled up nearly a meter high.
Men can be beasts. That seemed to be message of Rei Kawakubo's haunting and mesmerising S/S 15 collection for Comme des Garcons Homme Plus. The sloganed, protest pieces with wording that declared pointed statements like 'Anything war can do, peace can do better', 'Soldier of Peace' and 'Peace. Love. Empathy', will get the most attention from the fashion press, but the idea of the beastly nature of mankind infused every piece - just look at the way leopard print snaked up the back of a jacket, or how coats and tops resembled nets used to catch large wild animals. This was about heightened masculinity, but not the benefits and beauty of machismo, but rather the horror that violent, angry mankind can do. That's why Kawakubo seemed to be ridiculing the staples men turn to feel strong and confident - so she'd toyed with military uniforms, slashed, cut and scribbled on suits, and extended the toes of pointed shoes so far that the ends curled up nearly a meter high. Aesthetically, this made her models vaguely resemble Teddy Boys. But then that's apt. The Teds were a manic, angry group of young men who may have looked slick in their Edwardian garb but terrorised the community with their gang fights and flick knives. Malcolm McLaren spoke of being terrified of them when growing up around Stoke Newington, Clissord Park and Stamford Hill - that's why he become obsessed with their faultless style. Kawakubo must have also seen the appeal, as perversely despite the veneer of horror and sadness that surrounded the collection, there was a captivating beauty and elegance to the looks.

 

[margielamike2004]

http://instagram.com/p/pyWzaosHJM/

 

[Fatalefashion]

Comme Des Garçons | Spring Summer 2015 | Full Show HD

 

[pen6693]

I hate those shoes!!!!! haha. I've seen enough of those shoes for the past three years.