Coperni S/S 2023 Paris

[aracic]

Absolutely incredible. An innovative fashion spectacle unlike anything we've seen this season and a beautiful nod to McQueen's spray paint moment. I am obsessed!

 

[perhydrol]

This show actually made me lose the last bits of sympathy for the Coperni guys. They don't care about the clothes they produce, all they want is hype. However, perhaps instead of creating this quasi-iconic moment, they should focus on the quality of their products (as their garments look pretty shein-like at times) and leave behind their literal inspirations. That Balenciaga s/s 2008 part was just dreadful and even Bella with her sprayed on dress won't cover that up.

 

[Kimihiro]

I’m annoyed that people fall easily for this. Am I just stuck up or what? With let’s say Lee there were spectacles of course, but the clothes themselves were never an afterthought.

 

[gallianostan]

the attempt at trying to recreate that iconic moment with shalom... utterly f*cking shameless

100% trash

 

[MulletProof]

^^ they were, especially in his last years.

The sad part about retrospection is that only those who had enough capital to afford standing out, are the ones who get all the credit and acknowledgements. Alexander McQueen didn't 'pioneer' experimentation with clothes as a spectacle by any means. At one point, this was Hussein Chalayan's territory, he didn't even have to add some 90s supermodel comeback into the mix to secure hype and make people think they're witnessing some sartorial awakening when in essence, a remotely-operated paint dispenser or a plastic dispenser, has been the daily bread of factory workers for decades.

I think it's cool if you take it for what it is: a little performance on the process of making clothes, modestly aided by science. Regardless of the mediocrity of the accompanying collection [not unusual], it's fashion week, some innovation or celebration on what it's about [design/clothes creation] is always welcome. Even though PFW is a ghost town in comparison to what it used to be, the amount of talent it used to host and the ideas that none of the other cities could ever catch up to, it's nice that the people that are there now still try to pull the wheel towards a direction that celebrates design and creativity and that steers away from the parade of gross consumerism and the shameless attempt to commodify compassion and empathy that New York and American Vogue spend so much money to promote, manipulating newer generations to assimilate that as the 'right' fashion. I would rather this go viral, than 'the first paraplegic model', which is there so the consumer can match morals with a brand, to 'uplift each other' and in the process, unintentionally let's say, to stigmatize debate around shows and fashion design because, who could be so heartless, amrite?. So yeah, I don't mind if this goes viral, but do I feel incredibly lucky that I've seen better in real time? hell yeah lol..

 

[THD96]

There are only two good dresses in this collection, the glass dress worn by any Kiki and the final dress by Bella, which I guessed is some kind of new technology latex. Other than that the rest of the collection is dreadful. The fact that the 7 minutes dress is better looking than the rest of the clothes in the collection tells that these only care about making stunts this season.
Frankly, they should just perform the Bella dress and call it a day, and stop wasting people's time with the parade of ill-fitting and badly constructed clothes.
Those Balenciaga knockoffs are laughable.

Please at least try to be Alexander Wang first before even thinking about Ghesquière or McQueen.

 

[rebel]

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The finale was kind of cool, and it's great for social media but the emotion they wanted to have with this gets kind of lost when the dress they sprayed on was kind of the only good thing in the collection. With Chalayan and McQueen, the collections were so good and these moments were in many ways quiet relatable on an emotional level. I still get choked up watching Natalia Semanova at Chalayan's Fall 2000 collection. To go from great clothes, then to a finale like that is just a breath taking moment especially when you don't fully expect it.

This just felt like they had fill the time and space to get towards this. The clothes are such an afterthought by comparison, and they just needed an excuse to make this more of a production for what is probably the only decent thing they have actually made as a garment. And that wasn't even entirely on them.

Based on the Vogue review, they worked with Dr. Manel Torres for this which is a good thing.

 

[dodencebt]

The collection is so mid, there's barely anything good in it. I liked the spray-on dress finale, and it's a nice tribute to that McQueen moment more than 20 years later. Plus, it got a lot of positive attention all over social media, which is always great for the fashion industry. But as others pointed out, designers like McQueen and Chalayan actually designed incredible clothes. The shows or major finale moments were the icing on the cake.

 

[Norden]

I don’t mind that they did this, personally I’m not blown away by this. I think it lacks precision and direction. I think maybe the reason why so many people are negative towards this is that it feels inauthentic for them. Doing these type of presentations worked for chalayan because he really integrated it within his work and with McQueen there was a sort of animism to the arm, the idea of evil or maybe even abuse. With them it feels like a gimmick, spray painting in their converses. I don’t know, it’s a bit lazy.
The collection itself is very department store to me.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[WAVES]

more than half of it is Nicholas Ghesquière for Balenciaga and the last dress with Bella is indeed an interesting invention but also the necessary gimmick for a brand not many people talk about on a daily basis.

 

[depordetioz]

Crazy how much influence Nicolas has! So many looks in soo many collections are inspired by him

 

[gossiping]

poor collection. i usually like their stuff, this is just getting loads of PR because of the bella dress but those cargo pants (i hate this trend) .. looks awful. there are a few ok dresses but nothing special at all.

 

[jeanclaude]

A "Look mum, no hands" moment, after a "Look mum, no design" collection.

 

[Machinegumm]

Meager output. Also, am I crazy, or have spray-on clothes not been a thing for years? I saw someone demonstrating spray-on t-shirts ages ago. Are they trying to pawn this of as something innovative? Not sure why they would make such a fuss about it otherwise.

 

[LadyJunon]

Crazy how much influence Nicolas has! So many looks in soo many collections are inspired by him

It brings me back to Nicolas' LV debut back in 2014 and makes realize that the entirety of that opening song were so horrifically applicable to Nicolas and his copies and how poorly done they are.

Aw, come here copycat
You're my puppet
You know I love it

Aw, come here copycat
You can sit on my lap
Look at how it work baby girl

You could do it, you could do it
You you could do it, I did it already

The chokehold he had on the industry in the '00s, especially New York and fast fashion. Proenza Schouler literally fell apart after his departure from Balenciaga.

I'm such a fan of the dress
That's why I bought it five years ago

I'm such a fan of your hair
That's why I cut it (I cut it, I cut it)
(You want a happy birthday)

He (and his team) made that dress. Also, he's constantly reinventing himself, even at LV.

Do you keep yourself fresh
You know the truth

And if I wasn't myself
I want to be like you

Self praising his work and its influence once again.

I'm mesmerized by your sound
So underground, you're just sporadic
(The sun and the moon and the stars)
And the choreography is so angelic
(Just so in)

Mocking the poor execution and obvious derivativeness of that copy. That whole song is thickly coated in irony and sarcasm, thanks to Kelis' tone. It's hilarious!

 

[vogue28]

In the 48 hours following the show, the media impact value of Bella’s spray-on dress was measured at $26.3 million, including $20.9 million on social media: