Your Best & Worst Collections of F/W 2021.22

I loved LV, something that surprises me first of all, since I have always been lukewarm to Ghesquiere's work for Vuitton: I thought that this time the fashion factor counted more that the product factor in the equation. There was a glimpse of what NG used to be in his glory days at Balenciaga, and that's enough for me. Plus, Rick is always interesting, even when it feels a bit forced and costume-y: his mix of barbaric and regal keeps you hooked anyway.
One last mention to Courrèges: maybe we gave up on the brand a tad to early, let's hope Nicolas Di Felice keeps the steer in the right direction.

On the bad side: pretty much all of the calendar in Milan, starting from Prada: it's not that the collection was that bad per se, but it is unforgivable that a brand with its past record has become so unable to generate new ideas and spark new trends, especially since the new co-creative direction raised high hopes in that sense. And those post-show Q&A are just plain cringe-worthy.

In general, we live in the age of marketing-led blandness and copycats. I can't even say that most collections were real bad (well, apart from the usual D&G or Philip Plein...but I do not even register them anymore), they were just not good enough and this continuous disappointment is probably even worse, on the long run, than having a gut reaction to something positively ugly, because it means that we are destined to scale down our expectations.

p.s.: Can somebody post Flaccavento's final reviews from BoF?

 

Nothing particularly memorable this season, so probably the worst season ever!

 

Best Shows (IMO)
- Courreges (one to watch)
- Miu Miu
- Blumarine
- Loewe
- Schiaparelli
- Hermès
- Acne Studios
- Eckhaus Latta
- Y/Project
- Connor Ives (one to watch)
- Lemaire
- Zanini
- Willy Chavarria
- Our Legacy
- Wales Bonner

Everything else for me was forgettable/worst...

 

I feel like this season we've hit a new low. This round of shows has shown what's wrong with fashion: completely irrelevant and overloaded New York Fashion Week (I believe it hasn't ended yet) that got a rebranding yet nobody really cares about it, London Fashion Week struggling with both Covid and Brexit that has nothing meaningful to show, designers without any talent (Williams for Givenchy, Hearst for Chloé) or vision (Chanel and Dior are on the same level right now). There were so many bad collections that should have never seen the daylight (Puglisi for Cavalli is a good example of that). The rest was extremely forgettable.

The best:
- Courrèges
- Louis Vuitton
- Loewe
- Miu Miu
- Del Core
- Paco Rabanne
- Peter Do
- Acne Studios
- Zanini
- No. 21
- Ulla Johnson
- Dries Van Noten

The worst:
- Givenchy!
- Chloé
- Cavalli
- Proenza Schouler
- Coach
- Dior, Chanel and Burberry, they should just quit making runway collections at this point because all they can do is the most basic stuff
- D&G
- Coperni
- Fendi
- Prada

 

I don't know if I should make my list since we're still missing quite a few brands and they're the ones that have great chances of either being best or worst of the season...

 

Altho I despise even just the existence of LV as a brand/company, I have to say Nicolas surprised me this season! I hope he continues on an upward path

 

I loved

Lanvin
Miu Miu
Rokh
Courreges
Del Core
Blumarine
Fendi
Louis Vuitton
Loewe

 

loewe & blumarine for me, the only shows that made me sit up

 

For me:

Best

- Dries Van Noten (as always)
- Givenchy
- Courreges
- Acne Studios
- Blumarine
- Rick Owens
- Loewe
- Miu Miu (thanks to lotta valkova styling)
- Cavalli
- Schiaparelli
- Versace

Worst
- Dior
- Chanel
- Chloé
- D&G
- Isabel Marant
- Paco Rabanne
- Giorgio Armani

 

Best:

Dries Van Noten
Rick Owens
Yohji Yamamoto
Louis Vuitton
Simone Rocha
Thom Browne
Erdem

Worst:

Dolce & Gabbana (one of the worst things ever)
Chanel
Fendi
Giambattista Valli
Marni

the biggest disappointment was Valentino.

wha happened to comme des garcons and gucci?

 

Best:

Rokh
Dries Van Noten
Rick Owens
Courreges
Schiaparelli

Worst:

Dolce & Gabbana
Dior (whyyyyyy)
Chanel
Fendi
Givenchy

 

Best
Moschino
Loewe

Worst of the worst
D&G
Dior (just get rid of this woman)
Chanel(just get rid of this woman)

 

I love D&G and Levis.

 

This was, by far, the most hideous and anticlimactic fashion month I have ever experienced. The level of mediocrity, laziness and ugliness made me feel exhausted and depressed.

Best ( well...the only one worth to be bothered by )
Miu Miu
Loewe
Acne Studios

Worst:
all the rest.

I'm not gonna dwell into the biggest disappointments because I have no time and nobody is paying me for that, nonetheless I am concerned about Prada's direction, Valentino self-indulging smugness and the whole idea of digital fashion shows where we could barely see the actual clothes (DRIES LOL). If that is the future of fashion then FHCM and others should impose clear guidelines like lookbooks etc.

 

Best

Dries Van Noten. Serious drama and womanliness delivered like only he could.

Yohji Yamamoto. Good strong collection.

Loewe. Such a 180° turn from his namesake label, Is this his new modus operandi? A hideous show and a terrific one? Last season it was the reverse, JW was praiseworthy and Loewe just shameful.

Louis Vuitton. Finally, something with real substance from Nicolas.

Undercover. More coherent than usual, beautful, fun separates and I just have to admire the flex in getting Thom Yorke to remix his most hated song.

Simone Rocha. Lovely use of leather, incredible cuts and the true highlight of London.

Good

Miu Miu. It had its moments and at the very least, it intrigues me. A bit too pre-collection with the lack of a more complex theme but I get it, it takes time to recover from Katie's rule of terror.

Noir Kei Ninomiya. It was very pretty even if it demonstrates the need to just snip his mother's apron strings. That would be a nice concept for a future show...

Rick Owens. Chaotic but most of the time, the right kind of chaotic. Best eveningwear of the season. The mens one I grew to like for some reason.

Juun. J. Too bad they won't sell anything that was shown on that lookbook, a crime if you ask me! Vogue has some nerve not covering it...

Ulla Johnson. Divine, she just knows her way around a silhouette. Chloé should give her a call, once they get tired of the utter mediocrity they willingly walked into.

Celine Homme. Guilty pleasure more than anything.

Worst

JW Anderson. Alarming, I thought he had left those monstrous garments behind him in 2014. Let's not undo your progress, dear Jonathan.

Raf Simons. It would be lovely if he'd kept to the restrained style of last fall's show but he insists on badly fitted trash.

Dolce & Gabbana. One of those shows you don't even want to look at closely, such cheapness (at those prices!) would scare the devil himself.

Roberto Cavalli. Same as D&G. Burn this!

Chloé. Amateur, I don't care if Al Gore gave each garment his blessing, they were a disgrace for a brand with such a legacy of excellent RTW.

Patou. Lilac and mustard kid entertrainer costumes.

Christian Siriano. Do I need to explain?

Matty Bovan. Same as above.

Dundas. Sad to see him end up like this. Let this be his rock bottom.

Dullest

The trifecta of boredom is now complete: Dior, Chanel and Fendi. What a treat!

Junya Watanabe. Someone so talented should know not to waste his time (and ours) like this.

Most Inspired By...

Ports 1961. A walkdown of fashion's past fixations, not a stitch that was not taken from elsewhere, should live as a textbook example of the dangers of moodboards. Stylists and amateurs beware. Lovely color palette though.

Proenza Schouler.

Jil Sander.