COS F/W 2024.25 New York

[LadyJunon]

 

[jeremydante]

COS is british, so why didn't they do LFW instead of New York?

 

[Lola701]

COS is british, so why didn't they do LFW instead of New York?

LFW is an irrelevant fashion week business-wise. The Brexit literally killed that aspect of the London Fashion Scene.

NYFW has the merit of being a cultural scene. They can have models, stars, editors.

It’s not really the same with LFW.
People goes for Burberry and JWA…When they dare to go.

 

[signifier]

LFW is an irrelevant fashion week business-wise. The Brexit literally killed that aspect of the London Fashion Scene.

NYFW has the merit of being a cultural scene. They can have models, stars, editors.

It’s not really the same with LFW.
People goes for Burberry and JWA…When they dare to go.

Well said. Brexit has strangled LFW into irrelevancy because running a fashion business in the UK is just about untenable. There are a myriad of import and export duties and fees that prevent sampling and manufacturing being able to be done with the EU, where most of the fabric mills, tanneries, and skilled workers are based. This is why for show seasons, Atelier’s need to be based in Paris now so the sampling process can be expedited without delays. It is sad to see but LFW is about at the same level of relevancy as Copenhagen, Sydney, Tokyo - in other words, it’s not.

 

[Lola701]

Well said. Brexit has strangled LFW into irrelevancy because running a fashion business in the UK is just about untenable. There are a myriad of import and export duties and fees that prevent sampling and manufacturing being able to be done with the EU, where most of the fabric mills, tanneries, and skilled workers are based. This is why for show seasons, Atelier’s need to be based in Paris now so the sampling process can be expedited without delays. It is sad to see but LFW is about at the same level of relevancy as Copenhagen, Sydney, Tokyo - in other words, it’s not.

What saves London is that their schools have a lot of talents.
Showing in London works if it’s your first market or if you have an international clientele that has London as it first destination. But the international clientele is not necessarily looking for the edgiest stuff.

When I think about Erdem and Richard Quinn, I know they have some following in the Middle East. They are maybe the longstanding faces of LFW but not the face of British fashion per say.

All the brands that wants to speak to the world always end up having a Parisian showroom. It’s the same thing in NYFW.

And I think the pandemic made things worse as it has strengthened Paris as a creative and business hub. Milan and Italy thanks to their production infrastructures are always there. And NYFW in terms of culture is unbeatable.

Nobody talks about the clothes in NY. It’s about the first row and the after parties. Only Paris can command that level of attention.

Also, I’m not sure that Fashion is as promoted there by the authorities as it is in Paris.

Paris is a difficult calendar to get in but because fashion is taken seriously, it’s somehow always worth it even in terms of access to press, to spaces…etc.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[rowjellies]

This show is big flex in production values but it’s not like I’ll buy COS and think it’s “designer” after this.

LOLing at the guests holding up their iPhones to record the looks like what is there at the COS show you must capture 😂😂

 

[Lola701]

It’s at the level and probably superior to a lot of stuff in NYFW but OMG the cut of those blazers is atrocious!

 

[tourbillions]

i think everyone knows its fast fashion but they usualy have the atelier lines which are quite nice. so no one would ever think its luxury and i think theres space for fast fashion brands to show collections... specialy in nyfw where its all about publicity than actual fashion.

 

[LadyJunon]

LFW is an irrelevant fashion week business-wise. The Brexit literally killed that aspect of the London Fashion Scene.

NYFW has the merit of being a cultural scene. They can have models, stars, editors.

It’s not really the same with LFW.
People goes for Burberry and JWA…When they dare to go.

Well said. Brexit has strangled LFW into irrelevancy because running a fashion business in the UK is just about untenable. There are a myriad of import and export duties and fees that prevent sampling and manufacturing being able to be done with the EU, where most of the fabric mills, tanneries, and skilled workers are based. This is why for show seasons, Atelier’s need to be based in Paris now so the sampling process can be expedited without delays. It is sad to see but LFW is about at the same level of relevancy as Copenhagen, Sydney, Tokyo - in other words, it’s not.

What saves London is that their schools have a lot of talents.
Showing in London works if it’s your first market or if you have an international clientele that has London as it first destination. But the international clientele is not necessarily looking for the edgiest stuff.

When I think about Erdem and Richard Quinn, I know they have some following in the Middle East. They are maybe the longstanding faces of LFW but not the face of British fashion per say.

All the brands that wants to speak to the world always end up having a Parisian showroom. It’s the same thing in NYFW.

And I think the pandemic made things worse as it has strengthened Paris as a creative and business hub. Milan and Italy thanks to their production infrastructures are always there. And NYFW in terms of culture is unbeatable.

Nobody talks about the clothes in NY. It’s about the first row and the after parties. Only Paris can command that level of attention.

Also, I’m not sure that Fashion is as promoted there by the authorities as it is in Paris.

Paris is a difficult calendar to get in but because fashion is taken seriously, it’s somehow always worth it even in terms of access to press, to spaces…etc.

The cache of London was originally hinged itself mostly on the myth of the prodigious CSM graduate starting their fashion brand, finding success and moving on to Paris/Milan to revive a dusty couture house. That archetype doesn't really hold any weight anymore. Then in the late 00s, they had the rising generation of more domestic brands along with the return of Burberry. Lots of that culture was swiftly killed off by Brexit, followed by the "degendering" of the schedule, causing a lot of designers to drop out or move to other cities.

Funny enough, Copenhagen is currently having its time in the sun with the fashion crowd. I think that a lot of it has to do with the amazing sustainability PR along with the simple fact that their brands are more accessible pricewise and are very commercial in terms of design. Sydney and Tokyo, no so much.

New York is more about the culture (the parties, the celebrities, the press) than the actual fashion itself. That sort of environment is probably a great starting place for a lot of younger US-based designers, but I think that the more serious ones have to leave for greener pastures in Paris and Milan for further success.

Milan and Paris are sort of two sides of the same coin in the way that they're both pan-generational institutions with strong cultural backing and production infrastructure. Paris and Milan are considerably harder to get in, because they're looking for designers who are stable enough to be able to do shows or presentations each season.