Courrèges F/W 2021.22 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[GERGIN]

Phenomenal Debut! There's not a single bad look in this entire show! A designer that finally understands the codes of the house to a T! Considering how many of these looks can date back to the 60's/70's you would never know because that's how timeless they are!

The last look/model was such a love letter to Courreges (the pixie cut!!!). I cannot get over the outerwear, so so CHIC! Bravo Nicolas, YOU DID THIS!

 

[perhydrol]

What a wonderful debut! It's a nice foundation to expand in the future. I actually have high hopes after this show, it was full of life despite the clinical set and sharpness of the clothes. Especially the wild finale was pretty energetic and quirky in a good way. As a whole, it's a really good Courrèges collection with fantastic silhouettes that will appeal to the younger audience without looking ridiculous or desperate. It definitely has a lot of potential to make Courrèges great again.

 

[thiago:)]

Thank God we have Paris to save the season. Great collection!

 

[RedSmokeRise]

I hope he keeps this up! Extremely easy to love.

 

[John Bennet]

Very good. Nice to see the those Nicolas-era Balenciaga and Raf Dior touches that he was behind.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Straight to the point in a very good way. No pretentious, no try-hard. Can sell like hotcakes. Marie Chaix in charge of the styling which is great too.

 

[Lola701]

It’s cleverly done!
The styling is very « Courreges » but the pieces once separated are timeless and classic.
Easy to wear and sell. I hope it will sell.

 

[Sai]

this is SO great! smart and want everything!

 

[YohjiAddict]

Very clean yet playful, and not falling into the boring old tropes that dominate younger brands now...some nods to current Balenciaga but not filled to the brim with calculated vulgarity. It has that "cool-girl who smokes in the school's bathroom cubicles" that Miu Miu sometimes had.

The details in these garments are what makes them special and after the smelly walking hippy carpets at Chloé, I needed to see something like this. Strong debut.

 

[apple]

What a fantastic debut. I'm very happy to see this. It's interesting but not too conceptual, it's wearable but not cold, it's modern but not full of logos and aimed only at young people.

 

[tatouejeremie]

it's nice to see a true designer become a creative director, some great pieces with nice ideas in here

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

it's nice to see a true designer become a creative director, some great pieces with nice ideas in here

"true designer" ?

This collection is quite tepid, and déjà-vu.
This looks like a commercial NYFW commercial collection, very "mall" oriented.

It's not ugly, bad or irrelevant.
I just find it predictable, ultra-commercial and not avant-garde.
Is there a single piece we didn't see before ? Any look we can't refer to previous fashion weeks ?

Here a few pics that must have been hanging in the studio's moodboards :

source all of pictures : vogue.com

 

[GERGIN]

"true designer" ?

This collection is quite tepid, and déjà-vu.
This looks like a commercial NYFW commercial collection, very "mall" oriented.

It's not ugly, bad or irrelevant.
I just find it predictable, ultra-commercial and not avant-garde.
Is there a single piece we didn't see before ? Any look we can't refer to previous fashion weeks ?

Here a few pics that must have been hanging in the studio's moodboards :


source all of pictures : vogue.com

Funny that you reference Balenciaga since he worked there. I do not think any of this is referencing other designers, since most of the collection is referenced from their own archive, it just happens that it's creative felt it was more than appropriate to go back to what made the brand so modern, I think anyone coming from working under Ghesquire shows more appreciation for their own references than outside ones.

I encourage you to visit the vintage magazine thread and see all the archive vogues US from 1965-74

 

[perhydrol]

^^All those looks are a real stretch. Nicolas used to work with Ghesquiere (and Courrèges worked for Balenciaga) so it makes sense to use his work as a starting point. Those knitted Prada looks have been popular again since 2014 thanks to Phoebe Philo and now they're everywhere. BTW wasn't it Miuccia who literally ripped off André's work for the whole SS13 collection? That Loewe look, it's not an original idea of Jonathan Anderson to make a white t-shirt with dark hems. When it comes to the Bottega look, I'm really curious what's similar in the Courrèges' collection. The way of carrying the bag? Both brands have the same stylist. Last but not least, the leather coat with high collar from Alexander Wang, again, it's not the designer who invented that silhouette.

Really, you should give the credit where it's due. This collection is commercial because it has to sell in order to become relevant. Courrèges has been rather a fail since its rebranding in 2015 and now they have a new designer. That's why he started with basics rooted in the history of the brand. The argument about not being avant-garde enough... Courrèges was avant-garde in the '60s. Later in the history, the brand was getting more and more out of touch. It would be a horrible mistake to go in that direction. Actually, Yolanda Zobel was ultra avant-garde and she got fired after a year because it was too much. So yeah, let's talk about expectations that exclude the brand's history, identity and current position.

 

[tatouejeremie]

"true designer" ?

definitely, all pieces look considered and well developed with interesting details. it doesn't look like they brought in some vintage and did it in a better fabric in a nicer colour (chloé, prada, also dries etc).
it's especially obvious when you compare it to the collections of yolanda zobel where it doesn't look like there ever was a fitting

 

[avonlea002]

I fail to find anything amazing about it. It's incredibly boring.

 

[jeanclaude]

Archival with a minimal look...that´s it! Nothing to write home about! And that horrible logo...

 

[fakeawake]

This is just all archives with logo pieces. It's very cute but very clearly from the 1960s. The choice of leather is very 60s too - that non-quite patent leather.

Someone had to do an archival 60s brand. I can't see anyone really walking about in head to toe this look because it is too literal.