Courrèges Menswear S/S 2025 Paris

Ew.
What people would wear in a Black Mirror episode.
Trashy-cold-sl*tty-minimal is definitely not my cup of tea.
 
Courrèges seasons after seasons is interestingly morphing into Helmut Lang. Peter Do, watch out!

Nicolas Di Felice is talented but his gimmicks are somehow turning his good designs and cut into a whole gimmick. When you should concentrate on a cut of a jacket, a shoulder of a coat or the hem of a dress, you are there looking at a stupid hand on the pocket.

The womenswear is so more powerful here that being said…
I’m actually excited for his Couture.
 
I’ll say, let him keep on experimenting.

He’s already solidified his core offering of ready-to-wear and I don’t mind me having a crotch pocket to adjust myself here or there when no one’s looking around.

But seriously, it’s so impressive how Nicolas revived this brand from the absolute garbage it was prior to his arrival. His S/S and F/W collection in my opinion have a much stronger point of view, and his menswear is certainly not as strong as his womenswear but he should continue gender bending like an airbender until he hits the sweet spot.

Also, you know you’ve made it when middle aged women in Canada with a basic sense of style where Courrèges jackets.
 
I agree that it's very young and sl*tty, but the way the clothes are cut (he often pulls design elements from athletic gear) adds a nice dose of wit to the collection. My favourite pieces were the leather trench coat in look 3, the slightly weird dress in look 15 and the shiny lavender jacket in look 20.
Courrèges seasons after seasons is interestingly morphing into Helmut Lang. Peter Do, watch out!

Nicolas Di Felice is talented but his gimmicks are somehow turning his good designs and cut into a whole gimmick. When you should concentrate on a cut of a jacket, a shoulder of a coat or the hem of a dress, you are there looking at a stupid hand on the pocket.

The womenswear is so more powerful here that being said…
I’m actually excited for his Couture.
I don't think he used the p*ssy pocket this time, just the kangaroo-style pockets that he usually uses. That said, I appreciate that he is willing to experiment with the more functional aspects of clothing. The womenswear is definitely 100x stronger, but the menswear is decent enough for a lookbook presentation.

And yes, I'm excited for his collection for Gaultier too, it's probably my most anticipated show this week.
 
Echoing the other sentiments here about his womenswear being so much stronger. You can see he’s experimenting with so many more ideas. I find his menswear to be quite repetitive and basic.
 
love the invisible embossed logos on look 9 & 12. love that he does draping to finish off a sculptural shape. love the transparent tank.
visual subtleties go a long way.
 
Can't shake off the sight of Mugler's Spring 1999 couture show when seeing Felice's Courreges.

I still don't think he's figured out his menswear yet. Transposing what is the women's into men's doesn't entirely work so his men's ends up looking really forced. He should allow a differentiation to happen between the two. Although it would defeat the point of a more "genderfluid" outlook he may be wanting to embody, the baseline is that a lot of this also doesn't work for that body type and doesn't have the same impact.

Odd how his womenswear has such a strong voice and perspective but when it comes to the men's (which is almost exact variations) it just doesn't feel the same.
 
What can I say? This is the stuff of my dreams. His interpretation of Courreges is exemplary for all the all-too-literal archive slaves out there.

I love how sculpted it looks but not in a stiff way. Sharp jackets as usual and those great coats. The bands (?) on the pants and skirts are so nice. There are lots of nice details in the pieces that makes them one a kind. The nude tops are incredible cause you can't really see the fabric, it's pratically invisible.

I disagree that his men's is not strong but I agree that he needs to propose something exclusively for it, otherwise it feels redundant.
 
The pocket trick again?? I only find interesting that "invisible" fabric he used here...anyone know what kind of fabric is??
 
Just do non-binary collections with shared spaces, stop calling this menswear.
 
I am a relatively big fan of the womenswear, since he never disappoints. That being said, I totally get why people would confuse this brand with Coperni, because it has the same kind of minimalist futuristic vibe (which Courrèges was already doing in the 60s), but no, you better believe that Courrèges is so much better than Coperni, it ain't funny. There is a big difference in quality, creativity, and craft. Loving the last dress, it's minimalist perfection!
 

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