Courrèges S/S 2025 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[PDFSD]

VOGUE.COM

its giving David Koma 2.0

 

[LadyJunon]

According to Vogue, this show could've gone really badly:

Di Felice’s “summer residency” at Jean Paul Gaultier, where he guest designed a couture collection, has raised his profile. There were screaming fans by the hundreds outside today waiting for Wooyoung from the South Korean boy brand Ateez. It also might’ve boosted his ambition. Originally, he wanted to do 40 of the same looks. “But,” he said, “I thought it might be a bit too cynical for me. It’s not really me to be cynical.” Instead, he worked in a cycle: evolving his modern version of that 1962 cape—his comes with an exaggerated hood into a coat with a martingale in back into that halter dress with a bandeau and so on. In a less skilled designer’s hands, the repetition built into the process could’ve proved boring. The opposite was true here: It was a CV for everything Di Felice can do—from sexy club wear all the way up to the hautest of couture shapes.

That would've been a very depressing show.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

The worst dress is the one on Vittoria (oddly enough), but only because he should’ve cut off some fabric. For me, Courrèges is now the only 'young people’s brand' that I truly respect. It’s the best option if you want to be sexy and edgy without being completely naked. I say this with all respect, of course, because I would totally be a Courrèges person if I could, lol.

 

[Alquimista]

I don't know how practical the moebius pants are but they're beautiful. All the pants are beautiful here. The one wore by irina is a absolute killer. To me, it's THE replacement shape for women who don't wanna wear baggy and can't wear the (out of fashion? Controversial) skinny anymore.

He did a good job at updating that cape shape. Wise decision at placing the pocket on the side of the pants. Party dresses abound. Well cut coats.

My word to define this collection is slickness. The fitting is right, the proportions are doing what they're supposed to do. It's a well shaped pearl among the oversize zombification.

About the colors: De Felice always made a lowkey palette at the brand, with moments of boldness here and there. Remember it's very risky to use colours for courreges. One wrong step and you're back to 1968.

Why it took so long for vogue to upload the damn photos? Lol

 

[jeanclaude]

I see Rad Hourani over all this (overall in the first 6 looks). The bandeau tops and cutouts cheapen the collection. As a whole I don´t see it bad. No crotch pocket this time (and that´s an improvement).

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Matthew Williams is that you?!

 

[LadyJunon]

About the set: the circle in the middle of the runway is actually a giant ocean drum, a drum with numerous tiny metal balls inside it. When the drum is tilted, the sound of the balls mimic the sounds of waves crashing against the shore. The colours here were probably chosen to make it look like a ocean wave.

Why it took so long for vogue to upload the damn photos? Lol

They shoot the collection in a studio after the show. That's why you don't see the audience in the images.

 

[philophile]

The bandeau tops and cutouts cheapen the collection. As a whole I don´t see it bad. No crotch pocket this time (and that´s an improvement).

Definitely, the bandeau tops were terrible. That's my only complaint about this collection besides the fact that it could have had a wider color palette.

Normally, I personally believe a lot of minimalist designers adhere to black or white to put emphasis on the statement volumes and silhouettes (see Issey Miyake), since adding color to that might take off attention from the essential idea. Lots of volume plus color is more like 'more is more' rather than 'less is more'. However, in this case the designs are quite minimal, so he could have used reds and primary colors à la De Stijl, but then again the concept seemed to have been translucency or something within that realm.

I saw all the attendees being posted on Courregès' Instagram account and they all looked incredible, including older actresses like Juliette Binoche and funnily you can see they were all wearing the same designer, talking about having a strong POV.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I find this a tad too bleak and dystopian looking, but I commend Felice for his commitment to his own fashion vocabulary. There is a strong early-Balenciaga by Nicolas look to this. Just wish he were braver with his fabric selections and pattern cutting. These are some fabulous pants though.

 

[jeremydante]

It fell flat for me. Gave me a Rad Hourani energy, which was cool in between 2008-2010.
I have liked all other collections prior in the last couple of years, but this was a miss for me.
Felt like a forced progression in design, it felt like a dated idea of the future.

 

[Norden]

It fell flat for me. Gave me a Rad Hourani energy, which was cool in between 2008-2010.
I have liked all other collections prior in the last couple of years, but this was a miss for me.
Felt like a forced progression in design, it felt like a dated idea of the future.

Hahah I haven’t heard the name rad hourani since 2009! But you’re right it’s very rad with a bit more range. (Barely)