Diesel S/S 2025 Milan

My comment was more in the sense that this collection screams Balenciaga rather than Diesel: from the setting, to the styling and casting haha.

But if I put my mind to it. For me, taking the reins of Balenciaga seems more interesting than taking the reins of Margiela.

Margiela seems to be too close to Glenn's environment and almost too easy, whereas Balenciaga is still a French luxury house with a certain heritage and prestige.

Of course, the Demna years have greatly tainted all that, but I'm convinced that Kering is very good at making big promises (which obviously don't come to fruition) to potential CDs. The idea of Balenciaga becoming a little more of a laboratory and hyper-luxury house seems to me a possible and envisaged challenge for Glenn.

If Kering thinks it can get back on track by having all its brands be hyper-consumerist and dedicated to the masses, then they're screwed: more than ever they need an idea of exclusivity.

Balenciaga can be that again: exclusive and innovative.

I don't like Glenn at Diesel. I think his talent is wasted there.
Glenn at Balenciaga could actually reap flowers for Kering. Unlike, Demna, Glenn is actually capable of exploring outside of his initial aesthetic: both his Y/Project and Diesel are quite rustic and brutalist, but his Gaultier was very glossy and polished, almost Theyskens-like in a way. Margiela would be an immediate hit, but he'd e working on autopilot.

As for Kering, the issue with their hyper-consumerist vision is that it could only work on Gucci (and even then, it's conditional). All their other brands are either too far on the extremes of the HF spectrum to be prostituted so easily.
 
almost Theyskens-like in a way.
and we know which way. 🥲

Glenn was promising circa 2012. It's been a while since then, he's been more than drained by doing the worst thing he could've done as a promising talent: relinquish own thoughts and whatever stage you're at as a creative person, in the name of some dead person's legacy. Repeat for more than a decade. Of course he'll show glimpses of his good training here and there (esp his ability to understand Gaultier after having started at Gaultier..), but it's nothing that will ever build worlds/lifestyle/a new or at least fresh way of understanding fashion design. He can't even stop hammering on the one landfill trend that serves as his vehicle to connect to a younger audience that WILL abruptly move on from that in 2-4 years time as with all loud trends, he's hanging on that for dear life (and money) with no sign of wanting different, so take that away, make him produce 8 collections a year that promise a minimal level of novelty and.. you'll get worse results than Demna's, or the Gucci guy for that matter..
 
"Attack of the denim-eater zombies"
Glenn always makes experiments with fabrics...but he never makes experiments with patterns. At the end this all looks like quick gimmicks to get the attention in an easy way.
 
Shame about him and Y-project as I find his Diesel getting tired and predictable. Would I like him elsewhere? I don't know. I'm not sure if him Balenciaga is right, but I don't think there will ever be something correct for that brand because of everyone's expectations and fantasies.

The longer shapes with the fringe are a nice experiment. If only they weren't so blocky on the body. He isn't exactly one to tailor a silhouette unless it is in stretch...
 
I just know those contacts were painful. Hats off to all the models cast for this show who really got into their acting bag to embody the feel and energy of this whole show. Diesel continues to be a standout each season for how they are approaching show production and it's what makes fashion exciting. We used to have more excitement wondering what the designers are going to do with their shows, and this is a throwback to those times. They don't call it a show for nothing.
 

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