Dior Men S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Olaffo]

autopilot - noun
(be) on autopilot
to do something without thinking because you have done the same thing many times before
I got up and did Dior SS 2023 on autopilot.

 

[yslforever]

Autopilot is the term, on the verge of crashing.
Also that rendition of the Rhumbs villa is extremely cheap looking, they flew hundreds of people to L.A. but cannot organise an actual show in Granville, in their own museum after all....

 

[Lola701]

So who’s the collaboration with this time?

 

[yslforever]

So who’s the collaboration with this time?

Who knows ? apparently The Charleston Trust, Duncan Grant and some inspiration from the Bloomsbury group...

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I personally HATE Kim Jones's Dior even though I LOVE him as a person.

 

[Frederic01]

Looks incredibly cheap and trashy American-sportswear in feeling, as usual with Kim Jones as of late. The styling is not helping whatsoever. With all due respect, Melanie Ward is ill-suited to styling a brand like Dior Men, which over the last few years, has become so aggressive in perpetuating the whole Gen Z/Tik-Tok/Influencer vibe. It seems completely inauthentic and bizarre to me that you have a middle-aged woman styling clothes intended for 16 year old kidz. It's actually kind of creepy.

If Dior is so obsessed with youth culture and being "cool", then why not engage someone from Gen Z to style the show and/or contribute ideas? At least the styling wouldn't look as try-hard as this.

I digress. What bothers me about this show also is how extraordinarily shallow the references to the Bloomsbury group and Duncan Grant are. It all seems very created for the purpose of a stronger marketing angle for social media and for the press. I don't see how these clothes are related to Bloomsbury at all. For a start, it's way too corporate and FasHUn to be even remotely considered close in spirit to the Bloomsbury Group. Secondly, it's way too L.A. streetwear in feeling.

In my opinion, Christopher Bailey interpreted the whole "Bloomsbury Group aesthetic" to much more success at Burberry when he was there. It felt much more authentic to the brand and it was more aligned to the brand aesthetic and to the values.

 

[Frederic01]

So who’s the collaboration with this time?

In one of its most surprising collaborations to date, Dior collaborated with Mystery Ranch, which bills itself as the maker of “the best load-bearing equipment in the world,” on a series of utilitarian Saddle bags, belt bags and rucksacks. For those averse to technical gear, the backpacks came with intricately embroidered detachable covers.

WWD

 

[jeanclaude]

Kim Jones had a trick up the sleeve with this collection...literally a pair of spare sleeves hanging from the front of the jackets...just to give an "avant-garde" edge to the collection.

(imgflip.com)

 

[Cocteau Stone]

There are some colours and colour combinations that should have seen the light of day of here. The next collaboration Kim forces upon should be with a textile colourist because these have no soul to them.

The only thing I find vaguely interesting are the utilitarian style wrap pieces, but my mind instantly thinks of Galliano's Matrix, Lauryn Hill and Homeless collections for the house. So once again, reaping the benefits of a designer the suits try so hard to sweep under the rug. Idiots.

 

[disco54]

A wealthy Chinese Tik Tok twink's impression of what gardening clothes in France should be.

 

[Bertrando3]

it's SO SO BLAND oh my gosh. There's not a single collection that I like in this fashion week. I used to love men's wear collections of:
- Dior
- Louis Vuitton
- Dsquared2
- Versace
- Givenchy
- Balmain (just for the sake of the drama)
But now every single of them is bad, same with magazines, same with designers or real supermodels everywhere = Where is the FASHION I used to love so much 10-15 years ago???

 

[eugenius]

Seeing all these clothes on an 18yo boy is one thing, but seeing them on a man 30 years older is another. I’ve definitely aged out here.

I'm sure I'll be well-hung for saying this, but it's not a bad collection. As seperates, there’s a good number of pieces that are, for lack of a better word, cute. And as far as a runway show goes, I think the styling definitely helps. They could’ve hemmed up the pants a little bit more, but big whoop.

The collab with Mystery Ranch (??) is fine, I guess, but pleeeeaaassse stay away from Timbuktu.

 

[toffie]

Autopilot is the term, on the verge of crashing.
Also that rendition of the Rhumbs villa is extremely cheap looking, they flew hundreds of people to L.A. but cannot organise an actual show in Granville, in their own museum after all....

I had the same reaction regarding their choice not to go to the actual place in Granville, but then again they recreated the Pont Alexandre III last season although it was in the middle of Paris. I think it’s more about a statement that they CAN recreate it, as a power move.

The Granville museum is not owned by LVMH however.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Easter palette pastel clown clothes yet again.

Nice music choice for the finale walk though.

 

[CholoChic]

They invest a lot in catwalk venues because the clothes are dull

 

[Lola701]

Thank you @yslforever and @Frederic01
I just want to say « AGAIN? »

I think we have yet to see a fully designed by himself collection from Kim Jones for Dior.

I don’t find the collection appealing. I don’t find Dior men appealing. I think people who wears it don’t really have style, the shows are not indicative of a particular style or aesthetic. It’s all about branding I guess.

His work for Vuitton had so much allure! What happened?

Autopilot is the term, on the verge of crashing.
Also that rendition of the Rhumbs villa is extremely cheap looking, they flew hundreds of people to L.A. but cannot organise an actual show in Granville, in their own museum after all....

In reality, that kind of show for a brand that big would be a total nightmare to organize. Only smaller brands manage to organize that type of shows. The Vuitton « Pompidou » collection would have been impossible to organize outside the Centre Pompidou, much like the Chanel collection with the Eiffel Tower…

 

[Marc10]

The Venice Beach collection (which I loved, sue me) was way stronger, or at least more visually memorable. This is the one that looks like a pre-collection. Very muted and bland.