Dirk Schoenberger : Luxury for the Avant Garde
From Fashion Wire Daily
By Godfrey Deeny
You know you have to look carefully when a fashion forward designer like Dirk Schoenberger changes venues from his typical dark settings to a brightly lit luxury hotel on rue St. Honore in Paris serving champagne to his guests.
In a season marked by the return to Haute Bourgeois outfits, the German-born designer put forth one of his best efforts in recent seasons by embracing what we generally call "Uptown" chic. Out were the tough, black leathers and in were finely tailored and lean silhouettes and a serious exploration of the hot topic of luxury for the avant-garde.
Schoenberger sent out a snappy collection of tailored clothes with lots of attention to detail as in his windmill perforations on shirt pockets that made for eye-catching elegance and silver dust-painted evening jackets. With proper backing by his new partner Anne Chapelle, Schoenberger could also show a wide range of accessories where highlights included a great pair of sneakers with clever double rows of grommets and a fantastic piece of jewelry in silver resembling the ear-buds of an i-Pod.
With Helmut Lang not showing in Paris this season, it was perfectly apt for a German-born designer to use some design signatures of the Viennese master like his PVC coatings of fabric. He also give them a proper update as in Schoenberger signature tuxedo shirt; shown with a cool PVC breastplate in one case.
We also rather liked the Flash Gordon-style lapels Schoenberger introduced, while a regular shawl collar was upgraded with a sewn-on extra fabric strip in the form of a flash making for cool and rock-n-roll chic.
Judging from the bright mood at the show and Schoenberger's color palate, things are on the up for him, because we have not seen such an upbeat range of colors like lime green or turquoise from him in a while.