Dries Van Noten Menswear S/S 2026 Paris | the Fashion Spot

Dries Van Noten Menswear S/S 2026 Paris

Very Miuccia X Raf. He's better at womenswear than menswear.
 
He has the eyes for color and texture, but his menswear is too playful and feminine for what we are usually associated with the works of OG Dries.

I really want to like it because I've been rooting for him since the last womenswear show, help!
 
I’m wondering if this will appeal to the usual Dries customer. Dries’ Shows were always full with the pieces we would be able to buy afterwards, this feels more directional and less wearable. Maybe it’s part of a new strategy? He’s very talented and I loved his women’s collection but this feels like a step into the unknown
 
I really really enjoyed it ! It’s a Dries but through the lenses of someone else. „No” to copying, „yes” to reimagined. Some silhouette were odd but overall I can see this to be translated to commercial pieces. IMHO strong debiut.
 
What the hell was the look with the 3/4 length panelled grey sweatpants with pink boots. It could use some editing but I really liked most of the second half.
 
Lost a lot of the masculinity and strength you could always find in Dries's collections. Look 57 the black suit with green and gold embroidery is the most grown up look and only one that stands out to me. Veered way too far into femininity with some of the silhouettes and prints. I don't understand the obsession with androgyny and femininity the new crop of designers have when it comes to menswear. Footwear is very weak and is just rehashing their very trendy sneakers in new colour ways. Still can't design a good bag, so I don't understand why they bother showing any at all. Hardly anything made me go "yes, I will be adding that to my Dries wardrobe". Disappointing.
 
I live! Look 14 is perfection and so are many of the pieces in this collection
 
Okay, it's starting to grow on me. I don't think it's masculine enough for the DVN clientele, but it's really charming.
 
WWD's review:
Dries Van Noten Men’s Spring 2026: Between Wardrobe and Wonder
For his first men's effort as creative director of the Belgian house, Julian Klausner juxtaposed formal and sporty archetypes in a freewheeling way.

By Miles Socha
June 26, 2025, 9:10am


You can see why Julian Klausner, staging his first men’s show since being named creative director of Dries Van Noten last December, got a major vote of confidence from the Belgian founder, who retired from the runway last summer.

During a preview, Klausner spoke at length about his respect for “the traditional masculine wardrobe” — and his passion for prints, expressive color, embroideries and “a little bit of fantasy.”

His zeal for the latter elements — no doubt cemented after designing womenswear alongside Van Noten for six years — slightly overshadowed the former in his spring collection, which explored formal and sporty archetypes.

The show unfurled in a raw, no-frills concrete venue, Lou Reed crooning about a perfect day on the soundtrack as models strolled out in a freewheeling mash-up of opera coats, biker shorts, boatneck tops, fancy dinner jackets and pointelle thermals. Uniting it all were cummerbunds galore, in humble or fancy fabrics, a symbol of formalwear that fed Klausner’s narrative.

“I had in my mind a formal evening, like a wedding night or a prom, and how guys look better at the end of the night than the beginning, when their sleeves are rolled up, when the tie is loosened, the hair a bit more undone,” he said. “I imagine this kind of romantic guy with his group of friends going to the beach to see the sunrise.”

The gray jersey, skimpy shorts and suede plimsolls were also giving off-duty ballet dancer vibes, while the psychedelic florals and heavily sequined shorts emitted rave energy.

To be sure, Klausner’s romantic storytelling — and what are clearly solid design chops — yielded some very fine ideas: the covered buttons adding a unique, dressy touch to overcoats and double-breasted jackets; jockey stripes some zest to silky shirts and plain blousons, and a trompe-l’œil vest some punch when sewn to the front of a classic white shirt.

“Trying to play with something very fancy, but then still keeping a casual attitude” was how he described his modus operandi.

It was a promising and spirited start for the 33-year-old designer, who clearly breathes the DVN DNA. Now he just needs to fine-tune the balance between wardrobe and wonder.
 
I’m conflicted. There are solid Dries pieces throughout, but the styling proposal is quite weak.

For me, there’s always been this thoughtful balance between romanticism/eccentricity and reality in a Dries collection, and I think that balance is off here.
 
Okay, it's starting to grow on me. I don't think it's masculine enough for the DVN clientele, but it's really charming.
My dad, 80 yo, and I bought DVN. Not sure he will find anything for him here.
It’s indeed charming but lacks the broad appeal Dries had. Or Dries understood masculinity better.
 

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