Dsquared2 Menswear F/W 2024.25 Milan

Some of the women look truly horrifying; I had to laugh.

As for the menswear ... they're parading out a bunch of their old favourite tropes yet again, from the LORD² buckle (why is it on a beanie?) to the supersized fur trapper hats, muddy denim and layered jeans, but it's certainly not as fresh as it was more than 15 years ago. (To the haters, sorry, but yes there was a time when the sensibility at the root of this proposition, coming from the same people, was exciting and exuberant and authentic.)

I will say this for them: as easy as it is to trash this as trashy, and as trashy as, say, a slouchy peak-lapel tuxedo-jumpsuit inevitably is, they have tailored and styled it with more panache than Olivier Rousteing could do on the best day of his life, and I say that as someone who doesn't even like the piece in question. The Caten brothers get a lot of flack, and they are undeniably way past their prime, but they can still cut a jacket better than a lot of the so-called leaders of the industry these days.
 
That Caten twin on drag stole the show, literally...I mean, who would remember the clothes here? NOBODY! Who would remember that Caten twin looking like a femme fatale?? EVERYBODY!!
 
It's not even camp. It's just straight up COMMON. More is more with these clowns.

I can't believe I'm saying this 20 years later, but can we have Heatherette back? At least THEY knew how to do camp right.
I wouldn’t say their goal is to do full on camp. The shows may be a bit campy and thematic but they are making clothes to sell and fill boutiques.

In a world where all the brands are putting out the same homogenized products, DSquared remains true and the quality is actually up there with the best.

Sometimes it can be a bit early 2000s Abercrombie on steroids but the formula works.

They know how to make great cargos, the tailoring is great and they can cut a mean trouser.
 
I wouldn’t say their goal is to do full on camp. The shows may be a bit campy and thematic but they are making clothes to sell and fill boutiques.

In a world where all the brands are putting out the same homogenized products, DSquared remains true and the quality is actually up there with the best.

Sometimes it can be a bit early 2000s Abercrombie on steroids but the formula works.

They know how to make great cargos, the tailoring is great and they can cut a mean trouser.
It's not so much the individual products I was referring to, in fact there are some great staples in there. But I feel like their pieces used to pack more punch. I loved it when they indulged in tackier styling and more exaggerated pieces. Also, I do want to add that I don't consider camp any less 'legit'. Camp and theming can be just as desirable as anything else.
 
Rewatching the show footage was just another level of chaotic:

Again, despite the tackiness, the individual products always look so good. It really shows how important garment construction is in high-end/luxury clothing.
 
I like the concept of the show, not necessarily the execution. Is Dan or Dean telling us something with the final look while trying to strut to "Freedom?" They look more extreme than usual.
 
The pictures made the clothes look boring but the concept does actually work with the clothing. For the daywear once has to think of them as separates because as a full look its too 2004. But then again I cant blame them, everyone is doing the 2000s, the originals might as well benefit from it. The eveningwear looks like Tom Ford and some other brands but is still wearable and will appeal to a specific customer. The women's shoes are thw worst shoes that I've ever seen, everyone was tripping including the designer! Its a good thing that one of the designers got to feel what female models go through. Gotta shout out their walk, you can tell that Linda was the inspiration.
 
Dsquared2 is the kind of tackiness I like. The attitude is ridiculous, Dean is ridiculous, there was something cheap about that casting in the expensive set and the music was like « What? »…But it’s supported by a strong aesthetic and very seriously made clothes.
I don’t feel like Y2K that literal is a trend we want to see forever. It’s classic Dsquared but not the good Dsquared!
I wonder how their brand is doing post covid. They had some Amazing collections but it seems like they are having a slow down.
 
They still know their way around a good cut and interesting textiles when you start to look at things. I've never not seen a leather piece by them and though it to be cheap. It may be trashy and tacky and a little too on the nose, but their fabrics have always been a great selection because they have a keen eye for it.

I do think this is a bit of an overload though for what they are known for, but it doesn't fully stick to the landing. And there's maybe just one (or five) too many ideas here for the collection to be more cohesive. Dean looks great in drag though. I appreciate the more old school look with the makeup with those jewels. Very classic, very Sunset Boulevard-esque.
 
if you're gonna do the whole y2k dior mongolian-eskimo look at least do it right lmao wtf is this
 

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