Article
Elie Saab
Story by Impressions Staff
Acclaimed Lebanese couturier hits London.
The event was called the Moon and Stars of Lebanon, but it was the most expensive dress in history that shone brightest at London's Natural History Museum last month. Top Lebanese couturier Elie Saab, who designed the dress, had been invited by the British Lebanese Association to host a fashion show at their annual gala charity dinner, and he fairly stunned his audience with the amazing catwalk display.
It was the first time Saab has ever shown his collection in London. Yet he is not the first designer to take expensive gems off necks and ears and put them on clothing. At London's fashion week last autumn, Maria Grachvogel showed a cobweb frock with diamond dewdrops at Harrods. The dress, worn by Jodie Kidd and worth $400,000, was delivered by a security van and watched over by a team of guards. Then, in the same week, came a Julien Macdonald number, sparkling with a thousand diamonds sewn on (courtesy of de Beers) - a mere bagatelle at $1.5million.
But Saab topped them both in value. His dress, an emerald and diamond encrusted cream satin wedding gown, was worth an estimated $2 million. Two thousand carats of emeralds and 400 carats of diamonds studded the bodice of the exquisite gown, which has already been bought by a Qatari princess.
The designer, who normally only shows his haute couture collection in Paris and prêt-à-porter in Milan, said he was delighted to have been invited to take part, and was especially encouraged by the presence of Mrs Hariri who has been an enthusiastic supporter of his designs. To present his collection at such an auspicious event was nerve-wracking, Saab said after the show. 'I wasn't feeling very calm,' he admitted, 'but I'm delighted with the way my collection was received. I wasn't sure how the audience in London would react, but they seemed to like it.'
Naturally, security was equally as tight for the event, not least because of the dress itself, which had already been sold to a Qatari princess, but also for a distinguished guest list. Those present included Cherie Booth QC, wife of UK Prime Minister Tony Blair, Mrs Nazek Hariri, wife of Lebanese Prime Minister Rafic Hariri, who is herself dressed by Saab, Lord and Lady Eden - representing Sir David Miers KBE CMG, chair of the BLA - and the Lebanese ambassador to the UK Mr Jihad Mortada.
Saab's fashion show began after speeches from the various dignitaries in the spectacular setting of the Dinosaur Hall itself, with the models following a path down a sweeping staircase and around the massive centrepiece of the tyrannosaurus rex skeleton. 'I adore women,' said Saab, and it showed - sheer elegance and femininity oozed from his fluid cut dresses, by far the strongest feature of the collection, in a dazzling kaleidoscope of colour. From sensuous caramel to hot pink, nocturnal black to screaming yet sumptuous turquoise, there was something here for everyone - yet all with an understated simplicity.
Decolleté bodices followed sexy slashed backs, pencil-thin straps followed crop tops and jaunty boleros with matching long-haired baguette bags - Saab is not the type of person to make outlandish fashion statements, what he offers is pure class, each piece accentuating the feminine form. The designs moved deftly from soft fabrics, conveying a floaty feel, to the luminescence of reflective beading. As the music cranked up a gear from gentle Arabic pop to pulsing Grace Jones, so the audience showed ever greater appreciation. There were occasional nods to the current fashion trends - the colours, the beading, the long-haired bags - but as Saab explained after the show, his inspiration comes largely from women themselves. 'I see what's going on in fashion, but I don't follow or copy it,' he said. 'What I do takes its shape from women - they want to look elegant, so I make dresses that will do that.'
He certainly does. Saab has already established a serious reputation worldwide, with an impressive client list including Calista Flockhart, Halle Berry, Mena Suvari, Victoria Principal, Bo Derek and most recently Bridget Fonda, who wore a Saab frock to the Oscars last month. Her dress, in delicate lilac-pink spangled fabric which sat sexily on the slender hips of the model, was followed by a warm ripple of applause as she shimmied round the catwalk.
Then the lights dimmed, a spine-tingling drum roll began, a neon spotlight lit up the top of the sweeping Victorian staircase and continued down as the wedding gowns began to make their descent. One model after another stepped daintily down in pristine white, their trains and veils flowing behind.
Then, a thundering bass drum heralded what the audience had been waiting for as Saab's pièce de resistance graced the catwalk. Two million dollars' worth of glinting gems, reams of exquisitely tailored satin falling away at the waist - truly worthy of a princess.
The audience showed its appreciation as a roar went up. The applause shook the rafters, and even the bones of the dinosaur. The soft-spoken designer, who still lives in his native Beirut despite his international success, seemed overwhelmed by the reception. 'It's fantastic', he grinned after taking a bow with his models and resuming his seat next to Mrs Hariri.
The night, which included an auction, raised almost $250,000 for the BLA
Scholarship Fund, which has to date sponsored four young Lebanese students and civil servants to undertake postgraduate studies and specialist training in the UK. Items donated included a $10,000 diamond from Tavernier, as well as flights to the region from British Mediterranean Airways. The BLA was set up in 1984 to encourage friendship and understanding between the peoples of Great Britain and Lebanon to promote cultural exchange.
The Moon and Stars of Lebanon were surely shining brightly that night, and no one could argue that Elie Saab had brought heaven a little closer to Earth.
(impressions-ba.com)