regardless refferences both to chalayan & sophia k. i simply loved Emma Cook's collection
photos & review by vogue uk

photos & review by vogue uk
OUR thoughts this week are with Emma Cook and her team, who had tocancel their show, scheduled for tomorrow, for personal reasons at the very last minute. In place of a show, Cook sent out a CD of her eighth collection of beautifully intricate pieces, entitled 'Suzy Be Mine', which draws together a number of the designer's favourite themes: memento mori, like peacock feathers and dead butterfly wings (decorating the yokes of sack dresses), and 'taxidermy' prints, inspired by the book Fauna, by Joan Fontcuberta and Pere Formiguera, gave her 'Victorian Valentines' a delicate and eery feel, while Surrealist montages and appliquι added a hand-made quality (Look 26); and the muted colour palette of rust, black and camel and use of hand-printing suggested the sepia of turn-of-the-century photos (Look 27). But the silhouette was streamlined and modern: elegant high-waisted black shorts (Look 12), hooded capes (Look 14), wired day dresses (Look 5), and deceptively well-constructed little black dresses (Look 1, 23, 25), a nod to the late, great Balenciaga, ensured there was nothing fusty about this collection. (February 16 2004, AM)