Erdem F/W 2021.22 London

For a moment I had the feeling I was seeing a Simone Rocha collection...

 

Tbh the first trench dress with feathers is pretty good. Everything else is more of the same from him, aka very pretty but I'm not going to remember any of it once the season's over.

 

I was actually thinking how much the silhouettes and presentation remind me of Emilia Wickstead's collection but with some embellishments.

I really love it but I am a sucker for Erdem's designs.

 

^ I also thought of the last Emilia’s Wickstead collection!...

kinda the same homage to Dior and again Prada... there’s, thankfully, a lot of Erdem too which I love but also some sort of progression.
I will say that I was a little disappointed with his last collection but I’m happy to see him back in force.

 

He’s better than Simone since it’s all quite effortless and quietly grounded. This actually reminds me more of Dries: Very discipled, poised ladylike and still at a point of breaking chaos. The cast of dancers bring an refined, sculptural grittiness to it all.

His designs always impress more as separates in the shops than as a collection in a fashion show. But this time, there’s a confident flair, a high sweeping drama to the presentation. Less demure and more defiant.

Strongest showing not just from him, but from London this Season.

 

I loved the intricate details this season. An embellished collar, knitted cummerbund, and the sharpness of those accordion pleats. The color palette was beautiful too, as were the prints. Moralioglu has never really interested me, quite honestly, this season could act as a turning point.

 

Just like RedSmokeRise this doesn't do much for me, it is quite above most London fodder but it's hard for me to love...maybe look 17 and the second to last dress on Lily. Good presentation.