Yeah, I thought of Burton's McQueen too (and McQueen in general). Something about the combination of leather belting, corsetry/structure, and high collars. But I'm not mad about it—those are aspects of McQueen that were tapping into something quite English, in a way that was both romantic and perverse. I really appreciate that here, since LFW has been sort of dismal in the past so many year. This collection seems to take us back to that "English" aesthetic (the trenches are fabulous!) without turning it into a set of tropes. Honestly, I think he could've done a fabulous job at Burberry...its giving a bit of burton's mcqueen, but they were always doing shows along those lines. Its nice, well tailored and clean. the first suit and pants look was very strong.