Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2014 Milan

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[HeatherAnne]

Pilati didn't stray too much from what Zegna has been doing, and doing well, over the past few years, he just made it a bit more sophisticated and charming.

 

[mistress_f]

cathy horyn's review:

Pilati Quietly Makes His Debut at Zegna

By CATHY HORYN

MILAN — The Italian designer Stefano Pilati has worked at Prada and Yves Saint Laurent, where he was creative director of women’s and men’s fashion for nearly a decade. At YSL, Mr. Pilati often seemed a square peg in a round hole, although, to be fair, no one has gotten the fit quite right except for Mr. Saint Laurent. Mr. Pilati put a lot into those collections — fabric research, religious symbolism, art references — and in a way they suffered for it. Sometimes you longed for the palliative of a beautifully cut suit or dress.
Now Mr. Pilati is at Ermenegildo Zegna, the Italian powerhouse. The family-owned company had never had a big-name designer, and it managed just fine, thank you very much.
But, as Mr. Pilati clearly demonstrated Saturday with a forceful debut for a special couture line, Zegna could use some fashion direction.
When asked to name one thing he hoped to put across, Mr. Pilati said, emphatically, “Color.” Even if you’re not a consumer of Zegna or its fabrics, in your mind’s eye you probably see a solid slab of gray. Without going off the charts, Mr. Pilati proposed some delicious colors — sky blue, butter, saffron, sage and fern, along with navy, black, white and the khaki-sand shades.
If the colors helped promote a modern attitude, so did the notion of what Mr. Pilati called “the broken suit,” meaning a jacket in one subtle pattern worn with trousers in another, generally a wool with a floral jacquard that nearly resembled a paisley. In any case, the effect was quite understated, as well as a way of loosening Zegna’s dependence on that old business of head-to-toe styling.
More than anything, Mr. Pilati showed his experience with this collection and, I might add, his Italian sensibility. One of the nicest designs was a deep blue jacket with slightly rounded shoulders and a springiness that suggested Neoprene. In fact, as he explained later, it was a knit made from a natural yarn. Some of the superfine sweaters were actually a cellophane yarn, he said.
Framing the runway was a video, shot and edited by Johan Soderberg, of Zegna’s pounding industrial looms, interspersed with images of a solo pianist and the rhythmic movements of keys. The point was hard to miss. As Mr. Pilati said backstage, “The savoir-faire at Zegna is as interesting as the power you find at this great enterprise.” A bit of fashion can help express that unique capacity.

 

[elle_gb]

I'm so happy to witness this, the collection was superb. I love layering for summer, the color was ease and wearable. Great start!!

 

[williscrazy]

gorgeous palette, I love that pastel violet/baby blue color! the coats are absolutely fantastic

 

[lelaid]

A really great collection. It can be worn by many different types of people without sacrificing it's identity in the process. So glad to see Stefano still making beautiful clothes.

 

[christian zh]

Bring the old Versace venue back

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Truly an amazing collection. Pilati did what he does best, luxury. The craftsmanship and fabrics is bar none - everything looks so light, yet completely structured. I'm in awe with what he did with the suede. I also love the vertical pockets on the suit jackets.
I'm so happy to have him back

 

[Street_a_Licious]

i was just about to say how dark and stark this collection was, when i suddenly saw Pilati...

seriously, he needs to lighten up a a bit. a bit more joie de vivre.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

YAWN. Next collection...
Wake me up when he does something fantastic. It's obviously a different label he's designing for, but this just appears stale in comparison to his fantastic work at YSL. I honestly don't get how some of you are salivating over this.

 

[Marc10]

A quite solid collection and debut from Pilati. Over his years at YSL, he proved two things to me: 1, he's not the creative, pushing-boundaries type of designers; and 2, he is great with craftsmanship and tailoring. These two particularities will fit him right in at Zegna. I really liked how he built the collection with a nice deal of diversity. Daywear with a brighter colour pallet and suits with a sober colour pallet, very clever. There is something for every type of men, and the usual Zegna client will be pleased.

 

[Pricciao]

do you really get a look at how Zegna designs are before this collection? this is bloody gloomy. I know Stefano is a decent designer, you can see he tries hard to fit in, this collection is not Zegna enough though.

 

[ogepma]

This was a well accomplished welcome back show for Pilati. I thought it was fantastic! The colour palette, the small details, the styling, the venue, the music, the atmosphere; it was all very appropriate. As usual, the concept was very intellectual.

I particularly like how it was conservative enough for old Zegna customers but edgy enough for newer, younger potential ones. The clash between severe formality and a dose of nonchalant attitude is something he does so well. I wish I could own it all! I can't wait to see what he has in store for Agnona!

 

[marcBarna]

Full show in HD

 

[Bidwell]

??? This is for old men. Really old men. At least Alessandro Sartori was innovative and timeless. Stick with womenswear, Stefano.

 

[jeffandtheworld]

In your face Saint Laurent.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

??? This is for old men. Really old men. At least Alessandro Sartori was innovative and timeless. Stick with womenswear, Stefano.

Not sure if you're aware of this but this line IS for old men. The top tier zegna is not for young fashion-crazed consumers. And remember that Sartori did Z Zegna, which does skew younger.

 

[Fiercification]

It's not the most revolutionary collection but I do love the luxe, throwback vibe of it. The styling is what gives a lot of the looks a certain level of strength to me, especially the shirt cuffs folded back under suits, and belted everything .

I think just seeing Stefano back at work validates this collection to me somehow though.