Jacquemus, Valentino and Willy Chavarria Appear on Paris Provisional Calendars for January
Peter Copping will make his debut with men’s for Lanvin while the spring 2025 couture schedule will also see the arrival of Germanier and London-based Miss Sohee.
By Lily Templeton
December 16, 2024, 10:00am
PARIS — Come January, there will be no time to dwell on Blue Monday, given the provisional men’s and couture calendars published Monday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
Between Jan. 21 and 26, 68 brands, spanning 38 shows and 30 presentations, will be showing fall 2025 menswear collections, followed by 28 couture houses from Jan. 27 to 30.
Among the expected highlights of the men’s calendar are the arrival of New York’s Willy Chavarria and the return of Jacquemus’ menswear line, last shown in Paris in 2020.
The shows will start on the Tuesday at 4:30 p.m. with Japanese label Auralee and close at 8 p.m. on the Sunday, with Peter Copping’s debut as Lanvin’s artistic director with a coed show, as previously reported.
Cornerstones of the week, such as Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons, will take up their usual spots on the schedule. Absent from the provisional calendar is Loewe, which has chosen to showcase the fall 2025 men’s and women’s collections in March.
On Jan. 22, two labels will make their on-schedule runway debut. Opening the day at 10 a.m. will be London-based S.S. Daley, the 2022 winner of LVMH Prize for Young Designers. At 1 p.m., it will be the turn of 10-year-old label 3.Paradis, which won the Special Prize at the 2024 ANDAM Fashion Awards.
That day will also see the return of Paul Smith, which sat out June’s session in favor of a turn at Pitti Uomo, and of Egonlab.
As previously reported, Issey Miyake will be using its traditional timeslot to showcase the IM Men line on Jan. 23. There will also be Rick Owens unveiling his latest designs at 12:30 p.m. while Yohji Yamamoto and Amiri will close the day at 5:30 and 8 p.m. respectively.
Meanwhile, New York-based Mexican American designer Chavarria will making his Paris debut with an on-schedule show on Sep. 24 at 6 p.m. This will be the first time he shows his glamorous oversize garments and lowrider-inspired silhouettes on the Parisian runways, although he previously brought his collections to market during the show period.
On the presentation side, the fall 2025 season will see the arrival of London-based label Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, the Paris-based upcycling label Les Fleurs Studio by Spanish stylist Maria Bernad and South Korean label Post Archive Faction, launched in 2018 by designer Dongjoon Lim.
Returnees among presentations include Agnès b., Lagos Space Programme and Steven Passaro.
Also mentioned on the men’s schedule is Patou, presenting its women’s fall 2025 collection on Jan. 26 at 6 p.m.
For the couture spring 2025 season, the week will start with Schiaparelli at 10 a.m. on Jan. 27 as is customary and follow its now habitual conformation, with Dior, Chanel and Giorgio Armani Privé.
All eyes will be on Valentino at 5 p.m. on Jan. 29, as Alessandro Michele will be unveiling his first couture offering. The Italian house announced in September that its couture will be shown once a year in Paris, while its coed ready-to-wear will be presented twice a year during the women’s show season.
The collection designed by Ludovic de Saint Sernin as guest designer at Jean Paul Gaultier will also be shown that day at 7 p.m.
Making their couture debut in January are Miss Sohee, the brand of London-based designer Sohee Park that counts the likes of Cardi B, Gemma Chan and Lisa Manobal from Blackpink among its wearers; and Germanier, where designer Kevin Germanier will be focusing on high-end bespoke pieces going forward.
The two incoming couture guests will close the week with their Jan. 30 shows at 4:30 and 5 p.m. respectively.
Meanwhile, Alexis Mabille will be sitting out this round of shows. The brand told WWD in November it was seeking new investors to raise fresh funds and renegotiate its debt, with the aim of relaunching its ready-to-wear and accessories lines.
