Directed by Lulu Kennedy, was launched in September 2000 to give emerging talent an opportunity to show their collections on the runway during London Fashion Week. Each season three womenswear designers, selected by an industry panel, are chosen to take part in a joint show. Fashion East is an Old Truman Brewery initiative also sponsored by Topshop. This season House of Holland, Louise Gray and Noki have been chosen to show their collections. Past winners include Emma Cook, Jonathan Saunders, Jens Laugesen, Richard Nicoll, Gareth Pugh and Marios Schwab.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
In just 8 months House of Holland has tapped into fashion’s subconscious after bouncing on to Fashion East’s runway last season. Designer Henry Holland’s happy, shiny, and sometimes naughty in-joke slogans on T-shirt dresses, often encrusted with Swarovski crystals catch the zeitgeist. His fan-base includes Sienna Miller, Nicole Richie, The Olsen Twins, Gwen Stefani, Agyness Deyn and his old mate Gareth Pugh. ‘UHU Gareth Pugh’ was Hollands first T-shirt slogan worn by Pugh at his show in 2006. This winter he focused on a supermodel theme, from ‘I’ve got more than a handful for Naomi Campbell’, to ‘I’ll show you who’s boss, Kate Moss. His stockists include Harvey Nichols and Dover Street Market in London; Barneys in New York; Lane Crawford in Hong Kong; Colette in Paris.
LOUISE GRAY
Born in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, Louise Gray studied design and textiles at Glasgow School of Art specializing in embroidery followed by an MA at Central Saint Martin’s; scooping up awards as she went. Her MA graduation collection in Spring 2007, inspired by surrealism and the burlesque dancers of the forties played on their almost comical embellishments that concealed or revealed the body. Here her signature trompe l’oeil embroideries on multi-layered chiffon were shown to perfection. She has worked on a freelance basis for Lanvin, Paris, and Peter Jensen. For Summer 2008 debut at Fashion East, her starting point is optical illusion, bold colour, suspension and weight, and lots of originality.
NOKI
An early warrior against mass-production and globalised fashion Noki has been customizing since the late 90’s. Through cutting, stitching and embellishment he lovingly alters a garment Ask anyone who wears his clothes and they will refer to the precious, almost couture, quality he brings to something previously discarded. Noki (an anagram of and pun on IKON) prefers to remain relatively anonymous, only recognizable by the elaborate masks he wears. This winter he has also designed footwear and bags for Luella. For Spring/Summer 2008 which will feature at Fashion East, he introduces NOKI-NHS-Customisation and Aftercare Service; NHS standing for Noki House of Sustainability.