Fendi Menswear F/W 2022.23 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Olaffo]

She ate and left no crumbs for Kim.

Brilliant highlight of Milan Fashion Week. Silvia is giving everything: tailoring, gender fluidity, hype and accessories to die for. Love that passionate orgy of outeware in earthy, dimmed colours as well as teeny tiny bags which are paired with tails (!)

Every single time she delivers I feel sorry for her that the womenswear must be destroyed by Jones and she has no control over it. Shame daddy Arnoult, shame...

 

[RedSmokeRise]

She snapped. The outerwear is gorgeous. Obsessed with the knits.

Look 41 is a better Prada look than Prada lol...

 

[THD96]

I like it. It was her better collection. We still don't know what her vision in menswear was, but this collection is good because it has that mature and seduction feeling too it. Maybe because I can see the hint of Tom Ford here and there in this collection.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Not even my favorite collection or anything but it does feel current and well paced, whereas Kim's womenswear feels outdated and out-of-place.

 

[brandon J pierre]

i don't understand her not doing to womens wear she great alone!!!

 

[Frederic01]

Apart from the last five evening wear looks which are disastrous, this is pretty decent. It's obvious that Jones was consulting on this collection, even if it's not "official", you can see his design signature everywhere. The bags and accessories have improved immensely since his arrival at Fendi.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

As much as I respect SF, I just didn’t understand this collection.

Compared to whatever it is that Kim is doing for the womenswear, this feels polished and I am certain the fabrics are beautiful, so it is a win in that sense.

What that being said, it lacked any real pull, outside of the obvious investment in wonderfully made Italian clothing, what are getting when purchasing these pieces? The attempt to derive an attitude of what I like to call being “fashion forward” failed on the account that Fendi menswear currently does not have a strong enough voice to back the iconic name that is Fendi.

Between the key hole necklines, oversized collars, and the all-over print logos I failed to grasp anything worthwhile.

 

[Frederic01]

FENDI

 

[RaisinBoy]

The moment they don;t involve Kim Jones, the collection looks more decent!!!

 

[Lola701]

The neckline details towards the end are very Karl…

There are some great, eye-catching pieces in this collection…More than in the previous ones.
There are some pieces I would love for myself. The cropped suit or the fur polo shirts are great.
Silvia is a good designer and she has ideas, a spirit and the heritage of Karl. Even when she designed vintage inspired collection, she still had forward thinking ideas…Doing a 70´s inspired collection with Antonio Lopez draws would have been too easy for her.

It makes me sad to think that the excitement I had for Fendi (they had a great, interesting, modern and desirable RTW) is completely gone.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Nope. Not good. Very tired of menswear being so obnoxiously feminine. What is someone who is it genderfluid supposed to wear? There’s not much left on the market in the luxury department for someone who wants to look like a man.

Also - beyond the annoying femme details, I’ve had enough of this sort of “precious” look in menswear. It’s way too clean and airport duty-free looking. It’s too fussy and not sexy at all.

 

[Avonlea]

Another instagram twink wardobe galore. She is a good womenswear designer but her menswear has always been lackluster.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Yes. However, as long as we’re drowning in genderfluid/twinkie/femme wears, I’ll take this over the abysmally unskilled slathering of the same themed nonsense from the likes of JW/Dior Men/Dolce. At least this looks expensive/well-constructed/luxuriously-tailored, and not insultingly pubescent tiktokish pandering.

Even some of the looks are refreshing: The white suit jacket worn over its matching white below-the-knee length coat; the opera-sleeved cropped suit jacket; the tuxedo-esque shorts/skirt etc. Not my thing, but again— as long as we’re marinating in this gender-fluidity, at least the proposal is versatile enough that I can get rid of the silly pearls and dainty purses, and replace the cast of boys with men and there’s a whole new way of looking at this offering. ...Can’t say the same about that desperately begging for tiktok relevance Dolce mess...

 

[LadyJunon]

I liked this collection. It was sexy without being "Ludovic de Saint Sernin" and it handled androgyny without making the collection downright unapproachable for a more masculine man. While this could have been better demonstrated by the use of a more muscular cast, I enjoyed the twinky casting (albeit for quite degenerate reasons...) and I feel that they wore the clothes well.

These socks that look like they've came from a hypebeast's wet dream, however, need to be banished.

 

[Nomar]

One of her best men's collections in ages. Besides are few odd pieces here and there like the long black knit dress, I would wear most of this in a heartbeat. It's interesting that they are still pushing that gender fluidity idea at Fendi but unlike her last collection, she got a perfect mix of masculine and feminine details here. The accessories are also really strong too.

 

[Deleted member 141309]

As a somewhat feminine in the face and twinkish in my figure, I adore this, although I am tired of the baggy pants look. I do agree with the statement that all high fashion is looking like this now, but on the other hand I appreciate it - if I were to look for the masculinity, I'd just go to whatever the fast fashion brands are there now or the nondescript ones like Loro Piana, Scervino, Etro, all that. Without having much control over my own genetics, somewhat feminine clothing always looked much better on me (and arguably among my friends I am considered very good in pulling this off without looking like an Instathot), and years ago I'd get many questions over why I look how I look, so, in all honestly, I can only appreciate the freedom of choice I have now, even though this choice is mostly sh*t, it is still better than no choice.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ It’s a very strong, thoughtful offering without any signs of obnoxious, pubescent-pandering to appease the tiktok mob. Extremely versatile— women will look amazing in these designs.

The Fendi monogram isn’t nearly as poorly, cheaply implemented on the pieces as all other brands have done. … Look at the sloppy mess of Versace ripping off Goyard; Dior and Balenciaga plastered all over bags like it’s a cheap knock-off; and Ricardo’s revised Burberry logo that’s so basic and plastered one the clothes, it's insultingly equivalent to wearing an outlet billboard. I wouldn’t wear any of that trash if I were paid.

If she continues refining in this direction, one thing is quickly becoming glaringly clear with current-day Fendi: In comparison to what that Kim person has done to the womenswear, this is looking leagues and leagues above the womenswear now. (And smart, stylish women will be snatching up this menswear for their own, and its accessories.)

 

[Olaffo]

It’s a very strong, thoughtful offering without any signs of obnoxious, pubescent-pandering to appease the tiktok mob.

Honestly, my dream is to write that on most of the collections. For me, the ultimate sign of vulgarization of fashion is that a single person is able to predict very very precisely what will certain designer (enormous fashion houses with number of teams and countless workforce) do in next season. Dior Men is a great example: we are all here know exactly what kind of grotesque misalliance of ideas and execution Kim will present in a few days time. That is why I appreciate Silvia: she can still surprise me, for better or worse she is capable of making me (and I believe many other people) say "wow, I didn't expect that". And that is a great sadness that only few people care about it.