Ferragamo S/S 2023 Milan

[Frederic01]

FERRAGAMO

 

[Frederic01]

Was it just me or was most of this debut extremely derivative of what Daniel Lee did at Bottega Veneta in terms of aesthetic? Bizarre...

 

[Olaffo]

Was it just me or was most of this debut extremely derivative of what Daniel Lee did at Bottega Veneta in terms of aesthetic? Bizarre...

Yes, what we have just seen is a show consisting of 100 % Daniel Lee's Bottega Veneta leftovers. Most of the things were literally ugly, very weak debut tbh.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Now I will admit, the pieces are made well so the output isn't that bad and visually it is pretty solid...

However, this is a collection that feels like we have seen everything before, and seen it all very, very recently. I see Daniel Lee's and Blazy's Bottega, Jacquemus' "La Bomba", a little bit of JW and his Loewe, Wales Bonner, McQueen menswear. The list can really go on. It's a relatively strong debut because it is pulling so noticeably from strong collections/pieces and that is more of a disservice. How on earth are we supposed to feel connected to this shift with the re-branding and sense of newness at Ferragamo when we've seen all of this not too long ago?

The derivative nature should have been predicted considering they're pulling the "brand colour" shtick like Bottega Green and Valentino's adoption of Shocking Pink.

 

[tatouejeremie]

i expected worse but is this going to turn the brand around? i doubt it and definitely not with these accessories

 

[avonlea002]

I loved it. Strong debut. It is derivative but I couldn't care less. Now they need a great campaign.

 

[LadyJunon]

If Davis wasn't such a good tailor, this show would have been a disaster. It's obviously referencing Helmut Lang, 90s Prada, Pre-Givenchy McQueen, Philo's Céline, maybe with a few notes of Margiela's Hermès. It looks good, so I don't mind, but I'm missing that Ford-esque edge his eponymous work had. A bit of that could do good for a rebrand/revival. The accessories and the shoes, the core of the Ferragamo business, need work.

As said before "Ferragamo Red" is an obvious response to the success of "Bottega Green" and "Pink PP".

 

[perhydrol]

I won't say it's the weakest debut of this MFW because Etro was much more confusing, but I wouldn't say it was strong, either. It was too referential, almost to the point of making Ferragamo a C-list brand. It's also clear that the bold rebranding will not be backed by equally convincing propositions when it comes to clothing and accessories. That being said, there were some actually nice looks, but imho it's not enough to turn the brand around and make it extremely profitable and rejuvenated.

 

[Yohji]

I really like it. *shrug*

 

[eugenius]

I’ll take this red way, way, way before that pink & green from the other two brands.

Overall, considering it’s a debut collection from a designer who hasn’t been designing that long, it’s a pretty solid start.

Cool music, too.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

This collection has nothing to do with Ferragamo but it is still very nice! I am always happy with a simple direct approach. The clothes are well made,good fit and models look sexy as f*ck.

Theophilio makes more sense to me to be at Givenchy replacing Williams than being at Ferragamo though.

 

[THD96]

It's a solid debut, Maximilian didn't let me down. He has potential.

It's not what you think when about Ferragamo, but the house never had a strong design code so you have more freedom to express yourself.
Great clothes, well made, and good styling.
I love the flou and draping on the women and I am obsessed with the last 3 dresses.
And the menswear is equally strong.

One thing tho, for a house that sells mostly shoes and accessories, the bags and shoes can be stronger. They need to be more eye-catching.

 

[LadyJunon]

Honesty, I'm just happy that there's more and more black designers that exist outside of that increasingly obscene "high-end streetwear" diaspora.

 

[vetements]

I actually thought it`s a strong debut, re-branding effort, given that Ferragamo isn`t a fashion-forward fashion house. It`s Italian, it sells clothes and accessories that people can wear easily and fit into that existing wardrobe.

The shade of red is elegant, the set is classy, the logo is somewhat refreshing.

And the `best-of` elements said above only further strengthen their stance. I don`t think we should expect Ferragamo to be too avant garde, they can aim and try to be like another BV, but I guess they took the safer route to not be and not distant itself away from the customers. It has been a stale brand that long needed a revamp, and this dose of `just-enough` change I think, is just nice. And it is unabashedly commercialism which is Ferragamo anyways.

Maybe my only complaint is that cut out bag that reminded me too much of the LV bag designed by Rei Kawakubo, which means it isn`t original for a piece of merchandise they want to push.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Love it, great location and soundtrack too. The first 4 models set the tone. Agreed about the accessories, they were nit the stars of the show

 

[bc collector]

This collection has nothing to do with Ferragamo

But, what is exactly Ferragamo in RTW? Does anybody know?
My beef with this brand is that, not only have they repeatedly failed in establishing a recognisable profile in the clothing department, despite the changes in design team over the years, but also could not keep up with the fame of the founder in creating desirable, directional styles in their core business (unless you consider the Verina flat a desirable shoe - not me).
They just can't take the brand out of a generic look that, albeit well made (I bet, with their craftsmen and prices), does not stick to anybody's mind. And the extra effort they put this time in rebranding only made the clothes look even more disappointing that they would have had otherwise (btw, I did not hate this debut, just did not feel particularly impressed either)

 

[reese06]

I think it was a nice debut. I’m interested in seeing price points and what they decide to produce and also how they decide to market the house

Shoes and bags should have been stronger given the brand history.

Im at the very least interested

 

[Overindulgence]

The clothes and accessories could have and should have been much stronger, it also slightly lacked cohesion and a strong point of view. There was no item or look that made me do a double take but I did appreciate the 90s-early 2000s Tom Ford-esque pieces.

However, I am intrigued and I do think there is potential. The casting (which I found to be Helmut Lang-esque + they all had great walks), set design, and presentation were great. I'm curious to see the ad campaign for this collection. Davis seemingly has good taste - I can't deny that.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM