He usually mixes classic/boring with "restrained-stunning" in a way that in the end has become personal.
Excellent point, Monsieur! Unfortunate that he stumbles at it just as much as he impresses on this effort LOL Here, Maximillian’s take on an Italian Helmut Lang and— it works... I can’t tolerate the desperate idiocy to be down with the children of any of the giant brands that just showed— including Anthony’s always lazy caricature of Yves/Parisienne/high fashion, which unfortunately, seems to still excite so many, while Maximillian's is trashed.
His satin and transparent dresses are very Helmut Lang— if Helmut went bourgeois (and he could very well have had, had he still been designing). That satin tiered dress with the ribbon train to the side may as well be gleefully ripped out of Helmut, along with the casual transparent x satin panelled dress, and the panelled coats. And I don’t mind because it works for his quiet, mature take on a casual elegance— maybe even hinting at a fusion of Helmut with Tom’s YSL with all the fringed accents, Italian bourgeois style--with his strongest arsenal: His color-palette. Understandably boring even— and maybe not that well tailored even, but it works, both creatively and commercially for a very specific customer that won’t tolerate gimmicks and avoid fashion-victimhood like a plague— and keeping in mind we’re not in an era of great designers anymore. Admittedly, his insistence on silly guaranteed flops like the hilariously-placed fringed panels on the dresses and the frumpy negligee have to be trolling— just like the oversized mulit-dopp bags infesting the hip from his A/W offering. He needs to stop injecting desperate attention-seeking accents because children willl never be interested in this brand, and whatever potential adult customers are going o be turned off by the antics.
The bags are not going to happen, unfortunately, so I wish his handlers would stop dragging them out onto the runway shows. But I hope he’ll keep at it with his stride and that this resonates with that certain customer, especially more so now that it’s no longer a cast of annoying children playing dressup in 90s highend department-store fodder, because it’s so potentially much stronger than the usual high-profile brands offering silly and desperate clickbait and editorialbait now plaguing Milan.