Foot Network Shoe Star - The Project Runway of Shoe Design?

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footwearnews.com
Shoe Star Kicks Off






Who has what it takes to become the footwear industry’s next up-and-coming designer? Footwear News and Nine West, in association with New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, are putting seven promising designers to the test in the first Shoe Star contest. The contestants were chosen from among the school’s accessories design seniors after a rigorous judging process conducted by the FN staff.

Over the next six months, the seven finalists will compete against each other in a series of six challenges testing their ability to think outside the box and create innovative designs that will keep them in the running to win the 2008 Shoe Star title. A panel of industry professionals, including FN’s editorial director Michael Atmore, Nine West’s creative director Fred Allard, FIT’s professor and chairperson of the accessories design program Ellen Goldstein and a rotating list of celebrity judges, will critique each challenge, eliminating one contestant each round until the winner is announced at the Fashion Footwear Association of New York’s tradeshow in June.

In addition to the 2008 Shoe Star title, the winner will gain a coveted spot on the Nine West design team to work on the spring ’09 footwear, handbags and accessories collections. As the contest progresses, FN will be documenting the competition online and in print, while Ninewest.com will feature video highlights from each week’s judging round.

These seven student designers have secured a place in the competition, but only one of them will become the next Shoe Star.

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Ryan Baker
Age: 22
Hometown: Rochester, N.Y.
Though he already stands out among the all-female Shoe Star roster (which includes his older sis, Kristen), Baker is confident that his designs will set him apart. “I have a very technical eye,” said Baker who is most inspired by designer Michael Ditullo. “My designs reflect a useful utilitarian appeal. I like knowing that the design is functional.”


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Melissa Cordero
Age: 22
Hometown: Staten Island, N.Y.
Melissa Cordero admits to having a “slight obsession” with athletic footwear design. “I’ve worked with [athletic footwear] in retail and in design,” said Cordero. “The challenge of their designs, from color to function, always fascinates me.” Cordero credits Stella McCartney’s collaboration with Adidas as being her greatest inspiration. Cordero has interned for Betsey Johnson, Daniel M. Friedman & Associates and is currently interning for Tommy Hilfiger Footwear.


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Kerry Norton
Age: 21
Hometown: Little Silver, N.J.
Kerry Norton designs shoes that stand out. “The designer I admire most is Betsey Johnson,” said Norton. “I am inspired by her use of color, materials and [her] creativity.” Norton recently interned with jewelry designer Stacy Lapidus and, this month, will begin an internship with Ralph Lauren in the small leather goods and accessories division.


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Lana Klemeyer
Age: 27
Hometown: Shohola, Pa.
Her love of salsa dancing has inspired Lana Klemeyer to design heels that are not only fashionable but also comfortable and functional. Klemeyer admires the work of Bottega Veneta designer Tomas Maier because, she says, the collection “conveys feelings of romance and mystery through its use of clean lines, color combinations, weaving, pleating and varied textiles.” This spring, Klemeyer will be interning with Ruthie Davis.


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Melanie Maggio
Age: 21
Hometown: Harrisonburg, Va.
Whether she is working with footwear, apparel or handbags, Melanie Maggio keeps her designs classic. She says she likes the chic, modern designs of Michael Kors, adding that his collections are unique and fresh. And last fall, Maggio interned in the handbag division of Michael Kors. “It was a great opportunity to see the handbags as sketches and then, three months later, as actual bags,” said Maggio.


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Kristen Baker
Age: 24
Hometown: Rochester, N.Y.
Kristen Baker is always on the lookout for design influences. “Most of my inspiration comes from paintings, sculptures, street art, architecture, prints and nature,” said Baker, who most admires Alexander McQueen and Yoshi Yamamoto. The designer has a background in fine arts and jewelry and also gained editorial experience during an internship at Nylon magazine.


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Karen Hsieh
Age: 21
Hometown: Taipei, Taiwan
Karen Hsieh is passionate about footwear. “I love shoes,” said Hsieh. “Designing them, [wearing] them, even making them.” Hsieh says her strength as a designer comes from her unique color combinations. Hsieh admires the designs of Pierre Hardy and says he often brings a “shock wave” to the fashion world through his work.

Has anyone heard of this? It seems pretty interesting.
 
Challenge 1: Sketch Challenge

Mar. 3, 2008

It's Down to Six: Sketch Challenge Raises the Stakes

footnetwork.com
By Lindsay E. Sammon and Clair Windsor

The first shoe has dropped in the FN Shoe Star competition.


Nervous energy filled the air on Feb. 6 as the seven FN Shoe Star finalists lined up in the Nine West design studio to face the first elimination round of the six-month-long competition. The students had five minutes to present their five sketches to the judging panel: FN's Michael Atmore, Nine West's Fred Allard, FIT's Ellen Goldstein and guest judge Giuseppe Zanotti. Inspiration, technical execution and on-trend styling were the main elements up for critique.

"The talent we are looking for has to have their finger on the pulse of fashion today," said Nine West creative director Allard. "They did well in what could have been an intimidating situation."

According to Atmore, judging the inspiration boards — which ranged from the Amazon rainforest to Japanese kimonos — and sketches was no easy task. "We had to judge on their concept and execution — and in many cases, one element was stronger than the other. Once they're in the real world, they're going to have to deliver on both," he said.

The judges' closed-door deliberation lasted nearly 30 minutes and, in the end, Lana Klemeyer was eliminated.

Six finalists remain, and only one thing is for sure: One of them will be the FN Shoe Star.

Who Stays:
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Kristen Baker: "The hardest part of the challenge was getting it done during the hectic first week of school. None of us knew that we would be finalists and we weren't sure what to expect."
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Baker envisioned blue crocskin and stingray for her line


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Kerry Norton: "I thought [the judges' critiques] were very constructive. Sketching isn't one of my strengths, so that's something I need to work on. Seeing someone go home is difficult because we all worked so hard for this."
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Norton turned to the Amazon for design ideas


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Ryan Baker: "The hardest part of challenge one for me was the rendering process. I don't really have any formal training in it, so it was something I was very nervous about. But I was very happy to receive such good reviews on my sneaker. Given my background, you will be seeing more sneaker-inspired designs from me."
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Inspired by architecture, Baker incorporated sculptural heels and dark colors into his sketches


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Melanie Maggio: "It was nerve-wracking. I don't think I got in as much as I could have about the design process in five minutes, but as a designer, you do have to keep things to the point."
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Maggio's "Steel My Sole" collection was inspired by stainless steel


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Karen Hsieh: "I was not expecting Mr. Zanotti to speak so positively about my collection. I was beyond happy and thrilled. It was definitely an encouragement to me as an amateur shoe designer."
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Hsieh built her collection on the traditional Japanese kimono


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Melissa Cordero: "The most rewarding part was definitely the feedback. To be judged by people in the industry is very intimidating — I'm not going to lie, my legs were shaking — but it's incredibly rewarding knowing that the people you respect and admire are encouraging your talents."
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Cordero's sweets-inspired collection featured jewel-encrusted evening shoes


Who Goes:
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Lana Klemeyer: "I was really surprised [to be eliminated] because I was very happy with my work. I don't think I would do anything differently."



What's Next:
Now that green is the new black, it’s time for the contestants to get eco-minded. For their second challenge, the six remaining contestants will be required to design an upper for an environmentally friendly sandal using sustainable materials, and will present a color-rendered side view and bird’s-eye view of their creation. The students will be critiqued on their conceptual design and creativity, as well as on their use of materials and level of professionalism. A surprise guest judge — an expert in the sustainability movement — will join the panel of judges.

Zanotti was judging :woot:
 
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Challenge 2: Contestants Go Green; Six Falls to Five

March 17, 2008 footwearnews.com

By Lindsay E. Sammon and Clair Windsor

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After weeks of research and a challenging hunt for earthfriendly materials, the six remaining Shoe Star contestants presented eco-conscious sandal uppers on March 5. The judges — Footwear News' Michael Atmore, Nine West's Fred Allard and FIT's Ellen Goldstein — were joined by guest judge Stuart Weitzman, who brought more than 30 years of design and manufacturing expertise to the contest.

"We were shocked to see him there. I was honored to present my work in front of him," said Karen Hsieh.

The students were given five minutes to present their designs, explain how each component fit into the green challenge and field the judges' questions.

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The materials the students used included hemp, vegetabledyed leather, recycled rubber, bamboo and even a recycled shipping envelope from the U.S. Postal Service. While many of the competitors used glue in their samples, Melanie Maggio stayed totally green by spending nearly 12 hours constructing a gluefree upper.

"I didn't want to use any glue or anything that was bad for the environment. I felt like that [would have] defeated the purpose [of the challenge]," she said. The judges scored the designs on concept, creativity, professionalism and materials and fabrication. As the elimination began, Atmore announced a new twist to the competition: For the first time, the judges would name a challenge winner — the student who delivered the strongest sample, most innovative design and most ingenious take on the task. FIT senior Kerry Norton won the green challenge.

"It feels good [to be named the winner]. I wasn't really expecting it. I put a lot of work into it, so I feel like it paid off," said Norton. Despite winning, Norton still received constructive criticism from Weitzman. He said her presentation and the trend-right shape of the heel were impressive, but her flimsy cork sole would never hold up for everyday wear.

Hsieh, who received high praise at the first elimination round, found herself in the bottom two, but in the end, it was Rochester, N.Y.- native Kristen Baker who didn't measure up to the competition. With five contestants left, who will make it to the final four?

Who Stays:

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Ryan Baker: "I didn't get voted off, but I kind of feel like I did," said Baker of seeing his sister get eliminated from the competition. "We both light the fire under each other."
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Baker used a recycled polyester jacket for his upper.


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Melissa Cordero: "Honestly, I wasn't happy with what I turned in. I thought I was going to go home today. I was really more focused on materials than I was on the design."
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Cordero’s Grecian-style sandal was crafted from recycled leather and a water-based glue.


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Kerry Norton: "Presentation is everything, so I really try to get my point across visually," said Norton, who received praise from Weitzman for her sales pitch. "[For this challenge] I really wanted to find the materials that would work and look best together, then I designed something from there."
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Jute, wood and cork gave Norton’s shoe an earthy (and earthfriendly) look.


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Karen Hsieh: "From this experience, I should be nervous," said Hsieh, who was in the bottom two. "I don't know what to expect anymore. Do [the judges] want me to go crazy or play it safe? I want to know what should I present in front of the judges."
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Biodegradable postal envelopes helped illustrate Hsieh’s nautical-themed sandal.


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Melanie Maggio: "I try a little too hard to always stick to the rules. I played it safe in that sense [for this challenge], but this is a design competition. I don't think I'll ever play it safe as far as my design because they're not looking for designs that are already out there."
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Maggio hand-pleated the vegetable-tanned leather on her creation.


Who Goes:
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Kristen Baker: "I'm not discouraged and it doesn't make me feel like any less of a designer. ...I'm really glad for the benefits that I've reaped so far," said Baker.

The only one I would wear in real life here is Kerry's shoe, the rest are well...not my style.
 
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By Lindsay E. Sammon and Clair Windsor
footwearnews.com

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Kerry Norton, who wowed judges with her eco-friendly shoes in the previous challenge, was eliminated last Monday from FN’s Shoe Star contest, leaving four finalists to compete for a design job at Nine West.

Norton struggled with last week’s challenge: to create a day and an evening shoe in sketch form that would complement runway looks from modern couturier Badgley Mischka. In her presentation to the judges — guest panelists Mark Badgley and James Mischka, FN’s Michael Atmore, Nine West’s Fred Allard and FIT’s Ellen Goldstein — the 21-yearold contestant from Little Silver, N.J., designed a shoe without an ankle support. Judges labeled it a “fantasy shoe” that lacked the Badgley Mischka spirit and the technical sophistication needed at this stage of the competition.

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“The task was to marry their creative ideas with the Badgley Mischka brand philosophy,” said Atmore. “The winning student will be required to design within the parameters of an existing brand, just like we are asking them to do tonight.”

Each student was given five minutes to present their designs and field questions from the judges about materials and components, the target customer, construction and execution.

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“We were pleasantly surprised,” said Badgley. “They all had a lot to offer, they really understand shoe design and had beautiful presentations.”

The biggest surprise of the night came from Ryan Baker, who had earned himself the “sneakerhead” title after presenting athletic-inspired looks during the first two challenges. Baker’s cutout spectator bootie and sexy stiletto garnered high praise from the judges — and a first-place finish for the night.

“Ryan worked with our looks so beautifully, and the sophistication of his work was very impressive,” said Badgley.

Who Stays:

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Melissa Cordero: “It went well, but I lost all of my words when I got up [in front of the judges]. I felt the pressure and it showed today,” said Cordero. “But I put everything into [my work] and they saw it. Thank God my work speaks [for itself].”
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Cascading gold buttons and jewel-encrusted heels made up Cordero’s “Simply Stated” collection.


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Melanie Maggio: “I was really nervous [because] everyone’s work was so good this time,” said Maggio, who had the second-highest score. “It’s getting more competitive. You feel like you have to give everything, like it’s your one shot every time.”
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Maggio’s “Day to Night” looks featured white embossed snake skin and patent-wrapped platforms.


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Ryan Baker: “Last time [the judges] said something to me about how all my designs revolve around sneakers, so I wanted to show them that’s not everything I am. I do have a jewelry background,” said Baker, who shared news of his night’s win with sister Kristen, eliminated in challenge No. 2. “She was the first one I called afterward. She was ecstatic.”
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Baker's polished-steel spike heel and patent-leather details were designed to catch light on the runway.


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Karen Hsieh: “The pressure is [on], and I can feel everyone is stepping it up,” said Hsieh, who received mixed reactions on her day shoe from the judges. “It was a bummer because I thought my heel was awesome, but I should have made the upper simpler to complement the heel.”
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Hsieh added a banana heel to her evening shoe as a nod to the curves of a woman’s body.



Who Goes:
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Kerry Norton: “I didn’t nail it, and everyone else had it right,” said Norton. “If I’d had more time I would have researched the designers’ aesthetic more.”

The designers stepped it up in this challenge, I think that most of these could be made for the masses.
 
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