By Michael DeVellis, founder, The Powder Group, NYC
When Francesca Tolot arrived in Los Angeles, she had already established herself as one of the preeminent makeup artists in Italy. She had dozens of Italian Vogue and Glamour covers to her credit and a rich artistic background. With Venice as a source of perpetual inspiration, plus a deep love of painting, Francesca has turned her passion for all things artistic into one of the most astonishingly successful careers in makeup. Her flawless style has influenced trends in film, video and print, including British Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair. A-listers routinely demand her presence, including that troika of one-name wonders: Madonna, Shakira and Beyonce. The result has been the kind of influence, success and personal and creative satisfaction that most artists can only dream about. We asked Francesca about her path to success, creative growth and one of her most recent projects--the most talked about films in years – Dreamgirls.
GENERATION
What did you want to be when you grew up?
I actually wanted to be an artist or painter, which I suppose makes sense as an inspiration for getting into makeup.
How did that turn into a career as a makeup artist?
I fell into it. I was standing in for my makeup teacher and I just fell in love with it.
What was your first memorable assignment?
My first booking for Italian Vogue. It was so creative and so very inspiring.
PERSPIRATION
What are the challenges you face as a freelance artist?
As much as I love the variety of the work, it’s difficult not having a set schedule or knowing where I am going to be next or what project I will be doing. I can't make any long term plans.
What do you love about this profession?
Meeting so many wonderful people and traveling. I also love the fact that in my job I am making people happy and helping them feel more beautiful and more confident in front of the camera.
Do you have a signature style?
Not really. I like to try new things. I am very capable of doing many different styles, and that keeps it creative and interesting for me.
What would your advice be to someone who wants to get into this business?
You have to be prepared to deal with many different types of personalities. You also have to love travel and flying. Be prepared to live out of a suitcase.
Which project are you especially proud of?
Working with Beyonce in Dreamgirls. It was very challenging but so creative and such a wonderful group of people. It was true teamwork.
What was your most challenging project?
Also Dreamgirls! It was my first film. I had never done a long shoot before or worked on the same project with the same group of
people for such a long period of time. We were together for three months. Before that film, I was accustomed to going from one job to another.
Since you’ve been involved, how has the makeup industry changed?
It is always growing and changing constantly. There is more variety and there more jobs now than ever.
What do you think are the most important qualities for a successful makeup artist?
Have integrity - don't gossip! Be professional and be on time. Do your best job, regardless of the situation.
What makes you a good makeup artist?
That’s a question I would like to ask my clients! I think that part of it is that I am professional, always on time and I do the very best job I can.
What type of work do you find most satisfying?
Before I did Dreamgirls, I would have said print, but now I would have to say I love working on film and print equally. In print it is a direct collaboration between the photographer and makeup artist. In film it takes great teamwork, with many people involved.
Is there someone you would still like to work with?
I have been lucky enough to have already worked on some of the people I had on my wish list. I’m pretty satisfied.
Is it really who you know or what you know?
I would like to say it is what you know, but unfortunately it is often "who" you know as well.
What makes you crazy about the business?
Divas and prima donnas....especially when they have no right to be.
INSPIRATION
Which places inspire you?
Museums. When I travel I go to a museum in every city and town. I find so much inspiration there.
What's your favorite color?
The range from yellow to red and every color in between.
How do you continue to grow as an artist?
I learn everyday, that’s so important. Finding new ways to solve problems, no matter how small, allows me to grow both personally and creatively. As an artist we are fortunate that our problems, or challenges, usually involve using our creativity to find solutions.
At your level of success is it necessary to evolve or reinvent yourself?
Yes, definitely. Evolve by trying new ways to do the things you are already doing. Doing the same thing with the same process and the same product over and over again is not creative or inspiring. It doesn’t make you feel like an artist.
Any forecast for what's coming next in makeup?
People are going to have more fun playing with colors in makeup.
Whose work do you admire?
Serge Lutens. He is a French makeup artist and photographer and one of the most influential and creative people in the business.
REGENERATION
Given the fast-paced, erratic nature of the industry, what keeps you centered?
Definitely my family and friends!
