Francesco Scognamiglio F/W 10.11 Milan

[Crying Diamonds]

MILAN, February 27, 2010

By Nicole Phelps

The startlingly weird gold mask that Philip Treacy made for last season's Francesco Scognamiglio show had been replaced by less out-there accent pieces: crystal-encrusted belt buckles in the Boucheron style. Had the designer decided to play it demure and safe? Not exactly. Having recently landed some U.S. accounts, Scognamiglio put a few items on his runway with commercial potential, like a tweedy coat-dress; a black tailleur with the blazer tucked into high-waisted trousers; and strong, on-trend shearling aviator jackets. But there were still plenty of avant-garde goings-on in his well-executed Fall collection.

Inspired by the structure of early Azzedine Alaïa, Scognamiglio turned out a series of flared-skirt tank dresses with bold cutouts on the torso. His other point of reference, believe or not, was the fish, which as his show notes explained is a symbol of power, prosperity, and positivity. The sea creatures turned up as sculpted wedge heels on his shoes and as one enormous belt; they also informed the pleated, scalelike texture of a black coat-dress and a mint green blouse, both of which had high, pyramidlike collars that echoed streamlined, aquatic shapes.

Backstage, Scognamiglio noted that his brand is ten years old. That's a long time to operate on the fringes of the Milan fashion world, but for the moment he seems content to remain there.

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[Crying Diamonds]

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[Crying Diamonds]

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[Crying Diamonds]

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[Crying Diamonds]

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[Crying Diamonds]

Francesco Scognamiglio

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[Donatello89]

gorgeous, for sure...

 

[carmen_kass]

It's sorta gothic Valentino (the old Valentino). I think I like (some) of it.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

This is very Scognamiglio, which alone is a vast improvement of last season, when the accusations were that he was inspired by Givenchy.. which I couldn't deny looked quite likely.
Scognamiglio is back on form I'd say! His strange shapes and perverse sexiness have come straight back; the two things that made me a fan of his in the first place.
Of course, there are some quite standard looking clothes here also, and several pieces that look like they've been hotlinked (but subdued) from his A/W 08 and other shows.
Maybe, like Giambattista Valli, he has chosen his trademarks, which include the matching top and trouser two-piece etc.
I agree with the implication in the review that he isn't evolving and he isn't trying to break out of the quiet little place in the corner of Milan fashion week, but what I love is that though he may be bowing to a few trends for a few more sales, he is keeping true to himself, and maybe being in that corner allows him to do so.
The "aquatic" shapes and the Alaia-inspired daring cut-out dresses are my favourite parts of the show, the former carried out immaculately.
Francesco Scognamiglio may not be pushing fashion boundaries but he always pushes my views of beauty to further levels.

 

[Salvatore]

Disappointed with this . It looks just a little cheap and does not have imagination like his previous collections .

 

[FashionPower]

I don't know,it looks very Scognamiglio,but it seems like he played safe this time
The coat and the belts are to die for,but I still prefer the star inspired SS10 collection

 

[mikeijames]

the fashion world always needs its fetishist and scognamiglio has played that role for quite some time as that review has noted: personally, i'd love for someone with this point of view -- much like tisci with his catholic gothicism or jacobs with his grungy eclecticism -- give us something that both appeals to those on the fringes and those in the main.

 

[dior4ever]

I just started paying attention to this designer never did before that huge fish belt is amazing! i thought you guys might want to see this video of the collection its how i became a fan. although I dont really like his spring summer collection it lacks mystery for me.

http://fashiongonerogue.com/film-enchanted-matvey-lykov/