Gianfranco Ferre Uomo S/S 06 - Milan

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FERRE DROPS A NAME BUT KEEPS THE CLASS

From Fashion Wire Daily
By Godfrey Deeny



The house of Gianfranco Ferre got a name change this weekend, though the men’s collection the designer presented on Monday had all his signature panache and elegance.

From this day forth, the label will be know just as Ferre, even if the collection Gianfranco sent out had all the maximalist hallmarks of Italy’s classiest tailor, which is what Gianfranco is.

For spring summer 2005, Gianfranco’s vision is one dominated by white. He opened with a superbly cut white crocodile Norfolk jacket, followed by a model in a white ostrich duster with matching loafers. In short, it was the classic Ferre opulence for the man who can afford to wear what he really wants, not just thrown on what he can afford.

As Eric Clapton sang, “If I Could Change the World,” one’s mind harked back to the previous day, when Ferre’s latest CEO Massimo Macchi held a press conference to announce the new, single word name for the company, and explain its division into three key divisions – Gianfranco Ferre to straddle couture and luxury ready-to-wear, Ferre for its key commercial collection and GF Ferre for a younger, contemporary clientele.

Calling the company just Ferre, Macchi argued, means that the label will have “a more simple, aggressive image.” After several years of consolidation following the acquisition by the major Italian manufacturer IT Holding, Macchi insisted that the house of Ferre is now poised for real growth. Last year, Ferre posted sales of 145 million Euro, revealed Macchi, who himself was only appointed four months ago.

With IT owner Tonino Perna sitting front-row, Macchi explained that the company had just started construction on a new flagship store on Florence’s tony via della Vigna Nuova, located between Gucci and Roberto Cavalli. Ferre has 54 boutiques worldwide, eight of them owned by the fashion house.

Currently, 70% of sales are generated by Ferre’s fashion, but Macchi was keen to project that he sees leather goods rising to a total of 35% of turnover in the coming years. Sunglasses already account for 15% of all of the Ferre business, so do the maths and and you see Macchi is making ambitious projections.

“We are planning for 10% annual growth over the next five years, even higher in the first two,” added Macchi, who spoke in English and Italian.

Ferre, who did not address the press conference, though he sat front row, let his fashion do the talking. Gianfranco remained true to his preference for dandified fashion, showing his supremely classy white gentleman shirts and ecru leather motorbike jackets with two slash pockets, but on the back.

He send out a lot of camouflage ideas, in particular pants with sequined trim. But his biggest idea was the finale – five hulky youths with baggy pants, nude torsos and billowing colorful jackets that evoked a Bali dinner party, and not the Sunday afternoon news conference that announced another, new beginning at the house of, well, Ferre.

Ferre's clothes are ALWAYS cut razor sharply and to perfection , his leathers especially . :heart:

ferre03.jpg



ferre14.jpg




ferre10.jpg



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Photos from Modaonline.it .
 
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Fabulous. I especially love the cream colored jacket. Very different.
 
Strut said:
Fabulous. I especially love the cream colored jacket. Very different.

I agree, i really like that jacket, but i think ive seen it somewhere else before...
 
I love Ferre (Gianfranco is a mouthful), I dont know why he isn't more popular or famous, but I think he is one of the best designers around. His asthetic fits me perfectly, an emphasis on cut and not very gaudy.
 
Mutterlein said:
HE should be designing for Gucci
He would blow anyone out of the water, except Tom, of course. His menswear is stunning and his womenswear is basically classy Gucci.
 
Mutterlein said:
HE should be designing for Gucci
Definitely. That second jacket is great. The third is pretty nice, too. I don't care for the overall design of the first one, and I think the arms look bad. The last is just gross.
 
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well, Ferre's last womenswear collection was sure special and now this.. is cool
(remember he was the Dior guy before John came around.. he's concidered one of Italy's best classic desigers)

here an update on Ferre's future developement strategy
Gianfranco Ferre has outlined a new labeling strategy to reach out to a wider customer base and boost its name recognition.

The brand will refer to itself as Ferre (dropping the Gianfranco that many fashion followers have already shed), a development Ferre chief executive officer Massimo Macchi announced at a press conference Sunday, kicking off men's collections week here.

Three labels comprise the Ferre brand: Gianfranco Ferre (the top-tier fashion line presented on the runway), Ferre (the lower-priced label formerly known as White Label), and GF Ferre, (the recently launched diffusion collection).

Macchi said the company is focusing on growing the middle-range Ferre label, the "real moneymaker" with prices about 30 percent lower than those of top-tier Gianfranco Ferre. Both Gianfranco Ferre and Ferre will be sold in the same boutiques, which will see their storefronts converted to the name Ferre. A Ferre store is slated to open in Florence in September.

Macchi said that the Ferre name is more "dynamic" and "aggressive" and "more respectful to the individual called Gianfranco."

Over the years, the Gianfranco name has been associated with a bevy of secondary lines outsourced to former partner Marzotto. These included Gianfranco Ferre Studio, Gieffeffe and Forma.

Ferre is looking to broaden its customer base by growing its accessories business and more affordable pieces that compete with the likes of other fashion houses. The Gianfranco Ferre line, which costs more than the likes of Prada and Giorgio Armani, will continue to bridge the gap between couture and ready-to-wear, Macchi said.

from wwd
 

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