from Fashion Windows
PARIS, Jan 29, 2005/ FW/ – Under flickering neon (mixed with champagne makes for definite headache material) on a maze like dirt runway Gilles Rosier presented a definitively romantic yet structured menswear winter 2005/06 collection.
Dressed in chocolate suede and neat jackets, tailoring divinity meets urban comfort. Knits are warm and rugged to keep out the cold, while signatory signs of something elite peek subtly from beneath, like the GR initials stitched onto shirts cuffs and pockets.
Rosier’s traveler collects from his journeys and incorporates new and old treasures into his eclectic and researched wardrobe, covering vests, gloves and scarves with old coins that jingle like fortune-teller tales as he walks.
Romantic 18th century button up boot covers hide shoes and wrap shins while hinting at equestrian influences and elegance found in times past, like the brass button fastenings used on pants and multi pockets.
Selective cuts help define Rosiers man, as less becomes more in the search for simplicity and a shifting attention to fabric choice and sartorial detail.
Subtle nuances of style stop in their tracks to the sounds of Siouxie and the Banshees ‘Peek-a-boo’ track, bringing the 1980’s new romantic into the 21st century with a flicker of post modernity and sprinkle of forward thinking to create the perfect combination of wearable yet unique style.
Neatness is apparent yet there is a hint of something truly Parisian in Rosier’s collection this season, maybe it was the pleated skirt that hung from the back of a pair of trousers or the jackets buttoned to chests and left to fall nonchalantly to the side.
Beautiful dressed boys in a predominantly dark winter palette manage to adapt to any situation day or night, using their clothes to reflect an attitude of well being, obtaining what they need and want via charm and culture.