Givenchy Menswear S/S 2023 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[Kimihiro]

What the heck was that?

 

[perhydrol]

All those t-shirts look way worse than the cheapest ones from H&M. Such a bad fit! And same could be said about this whole collection. The funny thing is that someone here complained about CWK doing branded merch as menswear. I agree to some extend, but at the same time I think that she tried to do something at least nice for her shows. Here, Williams doesn't care to do the bare minimum. It's literally worse than merch and the neon green branded look is just a testament of his disastrous tenure. Even the production of the show itself felt undone in a bad way, as if they didn't have time to build a proper stage. And don't get me started on the fog.

 

[Marc10]

Horrendous. This type of lazy, basic streetwear looks so dated by now. Who would want to drop thousands on any of this? His Givenchy doesn't have street cred that Riccardo's had, hypebeasts would much rather buy Balenciaga, Raf Simons or more indie brands. Say what you will about Virgil but at he least tried to be more fashion, and never sent out something so basic and cheap looking.

Even his Alyx show in Milan was better than this, which is nuts. No way they're renewing his contract.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Dirk Bikkembergs meets Philipp Plein.

 

[Lola701]

Showing and disastrous and still being proud of yourself: Here is Mr Williams for you.

I have one question really. And this goes for the entire generation…Apart from the lifestyle, what attracted them to do fashion? Except for the recognition, the money and fame, what makes them want to take over a house?

There’s no love for Challenge. When Gaultier declined to do Givenchy and launched his Haute Couture collection because he was almost offended to not have been considered for the Dior job, you understand that he was up for the challenge and everything around, from the weight of the legacy to the prestige of the name.

When someone is using all these ressources to put this trash on the runway, I often wonder what’s the goal. You have creative freedom but they wants you to sell. Instead of giving your all to design desirable pieces, you do basics with logos.

My rant is more general than directed specially to this collection. The mediocrity around is baffling!

 

[THD96]

The set, the clothes, and the styling look like a cheap Rick Owens knockoff.

From the opening look, I already know this is gonna be a train wreck.

The way he slapped the logos on almost every look, proved that he is desperate for his clothes to sell.

The whole construction and fitting of the collection just seem off. But I guessed their target audience doesn't care about construction and design when they can flex their 4G logos.

This collection just confirmed his insecurities about his contract not being renewed by me.

He is like a reversed McQueen. Lee is getting better with his skills thank the atelier, then we have Matthew who's getting worse each season. How is that even possible? I wonder what the atelier feels about him? Can you imagine having your name attached to this mess when only a few years ago they were responsible for the most exquisite couture collections ever?

 

[JoCaderone]

stop this mess

 

[bc collector]

Basing on what I saw he was doing for Alix at the time, some part of me was cautiously optimistic when I first heard MW had been appointed at Givenchy, although I could not for a second believe he could do couture. But somehow I hoped being in contact with a proper atelier could do him good and elevate his skills.
Not only this has not happened, even his Alix has started to stink as of late.
I don't know if I really would go as far as saying that Virgil's Vuitton was better than this, design-wise: most of his work was just as lame but relied on the hype and aura of his persona, something that Matthew just does not have.

The question still looms large: can Givenchy be another Chanel or Dior, in the absence of very clear style codes on which to build a firm construction?
After a roll of 5 designers, only one of which was commercially successful (and such success had more to do with the designer's idiosyncracies than Hubert's legacy), are the suits at LVMH still positive they can make something out of this brand?

 

[caioherrero]

Anyone know if the sales are good with this boy? Because everything in women and menswear are terrible.

 

[Kimihiro]

Anyone know if the sales are good with this boy? Because everything in women and menswear are terrible.

Givenchy wasn’t mentioned in several quarterly reports now. That doesn’t bode well. But then another rotation of designer, unless they nail it will be disastrous, even if LVMH can weather it. There are brands that cool down, but even then doesn’t plunge badly.

This house hasn’t really had much success outside Riccardo’s tenure. It takes a real visionary if they want to make it big. If Slimane can pull off Celine albeit with a hitch, how much more someone visionary in a storied maison? Really though, how many mega brand does LVMH want? I’d rather they keep Givenchy smaller, more boutique. Somehow like Loewe or Céline under Phoebe. More design-focused. Too many brands peddling department store fodder is a waste.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

When someone is using all these ressources to put this trash on the runway, I often wonder what’s the goal. You have creative freedom but they wants you to sell. Instead of giving your all to design desirable pieces, you do basics with logos.

The biggest problem I have with the logos is that they need to have equity to be of any interest or value.

In Tisci's day, he could slap Givenchy on a garment and it would actually look like something because the name had equity and meaning earned through Tisci's creative virtuosity, the stunning haute couture, his energetic and aggressively designed RTW. The name meant good, directional, purposeful fashion. In fact, I don't even think he was so prone to flat-out label slapping, he tended to favor an instantly recognizable seasonal graphic or print motif. But we don't even get THAT from Williams.

The clothes say Givenchy, but what does that name mean these days? What currency has Williams given it?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Really though, how many mega brand does LVMH want? .

As many as they can sustain and operate. It's all about the money.

 

[THD96]

The question still looms large: can Givenchy be another Chanel or Dior, in the absence of very clear style codes on which to build a firm construction?
After a roll of 5 designers, only one of which was commercially successful (and such success had more to do with the designer's idiosyncracies than Hubert's legacy), are the suits at LVMH still positive they can make something out of this brand?

With the success of Céline, LVMH thought that they turn any brand into a mega-brand if they want. But they forgot that to do that, they needed a talented designer first.

In my opinion, to have a successful heritage brand, you don't need to have distinct style codes or rich archives. Just look at the success of Balmain, you don't necessarily asassociatehe current Balmain with Jolie Madame but with more rocker chic and body-con thanks to Decarnin and Rousteing.
Even Céline just proved that creativity comes within you, not from the archives of the house.

You just need to have a talented designer that has a strong vision and knows exactly what they want and how they can achieve it. With the combination of a good management team helps to amplify the designer's vision to the customer. Which is what the current Givenchy doesn't have right now.

What's wrong with Givenchy right now is they want to chase after the Hypebeast but they also want to keep their old couture clients. What they don't realize is that they can't have both, (well, they can but again they need a talented designer first), not with Matthew.

 

[caioherrero]

Givenchy wasn’t mentioned in several quarterly reports now. That doesn’t bode well. But then another rotation of designer, unless they nail it will be disastrous, even if LVMH can weather it. There are brands that cool down, but even then doesn’t plunge badly.

This house hasn’t really had much success outside Riccardo’s tenure. It takes a real visionary if they want to make it big. If Slimane can pull off Celine albeit with a hitch, how much more someone visionary in a storied maison? Really though, how many mega brand does LVMH want? I’d rather they keep Givenchy smaller, more boutique. Somehow like Loewe or Céline under Phoebe. More design-focused. Too many brands peddling department store fodder is a waste.

So do you think they will keep with MW even with the flop?

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Is this what they keep cancelling couture for lol

 

[Melancholybaby]

Is this what they keep cancelling couture for lol

I guess they’re being realistic and saving themselves from more embarrassment lol.

 

[disco54]

This vaguely reminded me of urban fashion people would get at 2nd rate malls in the mid-late 90s and not in a good way. Lot of this is derived from Karl Kani, FUBU, and Exhaust but not in an exciting or appealing way those brands were back then, this is like a boring minimalist version devoid of any life. One of the worst men's shows I have seen EVER.