Givenchy Menswear S/S 2023 Paris

[bc collector]

n my opinion, to have a successful heritage brand, you don't need to have distinct style codes or rich archives. Just look at the success of Balmain, you don't necessarily asassociatehe current Balmain with Jolie Madame but with more rocker chic and body-con thanks to Decarnin and Rousteing.
Even Céline just proved that creativity comes within you, not from the archives of the house.

To be clear, I'm with @Kimihiro here, I think that sometimes smaller is better, but I'm not sure that's the line of reasoning the suits at LVMH follow. My guess is that, for one reason or another, their expectations for Givenchy were very grand.
It's interesting that you bring up Celine and Balmain: both Decarnin and Philo played it smoothly when it came to superimpose their style on that of the house, because neither Celine or Balmain had any particular identity, beyond being generic bourgeois brands. It was like drawing on a blank page.
Givenchy, on the other, had the aura of a heritage brand, the myth of Audrey Hepburn to sustain it in the public memory but not much else to make it really work. And a good designer alone, like Lee McQueen's trajectory at the house illustrates, is not always the recipe for success. In the end, it was Tisci who turned the house around as if it was a blank page, and superimposed his style on that of Hubert's. Both Claire and Matthew had to contend with Riccardo's legacy more than the founder's.

 

[caioherrero]

Omg, this is terrible

 

[GivenchyHomme]

He deserves to get fired for this.

 

[LadyJunon]

He deserves to get fired for this.

I'd rather castration at this point. This collection is a crime.

 

[Olaffo]

Well, we have certainly reached a new low in a menswear in general.

Actually that trainwreck provoked an interesting and quite insightful discussion about that is essentially the role of big fashion house nowadays. One can always argue that it is just a business and what sell sells but I really don't believe that. It is about clothes but also about the people who are wearing them, certain allure about art which in that case is what do we wear (but also how do we look one at the other, what is the implication of style etc.). Givenchy is failing because they separated a great designer from a blank-page house like Givenchy. Tisci should have stayed there and stop trying to fool anyone that he'd be better elsewhere, he has perfect conditions to work, atelier and commercial success. I am very much into Lagerfeldian type tenure: once you're appointed and that is a great match you're stayed there until you will die a moment after a bow. No mercy, switching designers non stop results in vulgar material waste like that one.

 

[Norden]

Honestly, plein has more authenticity than this collection. I don’t wanna be nasty towards a designer and the output. But this is completely hollow, lacking inspiration, narrative, history. the slapping of the logos has indeed created a surplus of branding, loss of value in currency indeed.

The fact that this can be put out is really alarming. Givenchy has to mean something.

 

[jeanclaude]

With each new collection he is turning Givenchy more into "Givenshit"...it is so obvious he does not have a clue about what to do next.

You cannot make clothes for a couture house like this one, the same way you make clothes for a hipermarket fashion line. It is not as easy (and it should not be as easy) as to splash logos over generic utilitarian everyday clothes.

How is he going to command a whole couture atelier to make a decent collection???

 

[WAVES]

eVeRyThInG iS sO bAsIc

 

[Frederic01]

The problem with his approach is that he just doesn't have the vision and/or taste to elevate the concept of sportswear or streetwear to make it look interesting and desirable. Even when Riccardo was doing his "street style", he was carefully curating and editing the shows in a way that felt very directional and luxurious. There may have been t-shirts, parkas, hoodies, etc., but it was placed amongst strong and dynamic tailoring looks, and in the latter years, a handful of exquisite Haute Couture looks.

The whole thing felt very luxe and prestige and interesting.

MW is just putting very banal streetwear amongst equally banal sportswear. It’s an extremely ordinary approach and one that clearly doesn’t work.

 

[zoom]

Copying the worst of Versace's current awful menswear would have Hubert cringing. The sad state of this house in its present form is beyond dire. Offer the job to Christopher John Rogers or Theyskens or Dossena or Simone Rochas or literally anyone else and be done with it. Givenchy as a crotch logo..seriously ?

 

[Steddycam91]

Really at a loss for words here. LVMH really fumbled the ball by hiring Williams, huh?

Must be nice to be a designer and do a “streetwear” collection…the fit doesn’t have to be good, nothing has to look luxurious or well-made, the proportions can be sloppy, when in doubt just add more logos.

I’ve said this before, but they’re clearly just desperately trying to resurrect that early-2010s Hypebeast aesthetic that just isn’t a thing anymore. That won’t stop them from continuing to circle the drain I guess.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Wont lie I loved the set and presentation, totally hated the music and the clothes look like what you might find on the sale rack at Rugged Warehouse (now Gabe's)

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Must be nice to be a designer and do a “streetwear” collection…the fit doesn’t have to be good, nothing has to look luxurious or well-made, the proportions can be sloppy, when in doubt just add more logos.

I’ve said this before, but they’re clearly just desperately trying to resurrect that early-2010s Hypebeast aesthetic that just isn’t a thing anymore. That won’t stop them from continuing to circle the drain I guess.

True streetwear is actually well made and creative and puts quality first thats why the pricing also reflects the effort as there's also plenty of handwork that goes into it.

 

[velvetandsilk]

I have one question really. And this goes for the entire generation…Apart from the lifestyle, what attracted them to do fashion? Except for the recognition, the money and fame, what makes them want to take over a house?

They think are easy job. They are obviously not interested in tailoring or fabric production.
He comes from a club culture. The scenario is always the same. You party a lot at a young age, you meet people from the entertainment world, someone talks about some clothes, you learn that you can make good money on t-shirts. You start making simple clothes that your celebrity friends are wearing and the hype starts.Then you discover that you can make a lot of money by creating an aura that your boring average company can be high fashion. You organize a show in Paris or some other important place. The suits think you are super talented they give you an old HC fashion house and then your incompetence and lack of any vision comes out. Incidentally he tried to get into Parsons but was rejected....