Gucci Menswear F/W 2024.25 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[DK92]

Somehow I like it!

 

[WAVES]

it’s very good and solid for a Menswear Collection.
the coats are great, the tailoring looks sharp and well cut and even the logo presentation is done in a very chic way.

clearly, his vision was/ is to have an unique approach for both presentations hence why I think the biggest mistake was not to show both collections together (it would’ve benefited Sabato’s introduction as Creative Designer, the overall hype surrounding it and even budget wise!)

how cool it would’ve been to have duos going down the runway!

no gimmicks, interesting colour palette and a somewhat tactful sensuality.

 

[gallianostan]

#ANCORA

 

[MModa]

A sleek collection. Beautiful color palette.

 

[ivano]

I like the Saint Laurent vibes from this. This is more wearable than their cloths from the last 10 years. Not clownish at all.

 

[thiago:)]

Apparently, this collection has been well received in social media, which is good for them, I guess. I've seen many people sharing images and close-ups in a convincing way.

There are some good pieces here and there, but I'm not here for them yet. Why is him wearing Dr Martens, though?

 

[lookatme]

I know he worked at Valentino, but this is indistinguishable from what you come to expect from Valentino. Or Dior men's. Or Fendi men's. It's all the same. I still cannot fathom how you can be such an uninspired designer. How do you wake up in the morning and not have any kind of fire or passion to make something special!

 

[LadyJunon]

I actually liked this collection. It actually had the young, cool, sexy energy that Ancora desperately lacked and it was actually designed too.

Like with Ancora, the long coats and leather pieces were the stars of the show, especially the lipstick-red leather coat on passage 10. I also liked the use of very short gloves and the ties styled with the plunging necklines. My only issue is that the silhouettes were a bit too trendy to create an authentic identity, which Gucci is desperately in need of.

The reuse of the Ancora soundtrack is lazy and a bit questionable. The addition of Lucky Love's "Masculinity" didn't help either. That said, I do like the idea of mirroring the menswear and womenswear, but the concept needs work. For the mirroring concept to actually be useful to Gucci, Sabato needs to sync the two together like this:
• SS24 Womenswear - Ancora
• AW24 Menswear + Womenswear - Theme II
• Cruise 25 - Theme III
• SS25 Menswear + Womenswear - Theme IV
• AW25 Menswear + Womenswear - Theme V
• and so on...

It doesn't make sense from several perspectives (creative, logistics, manufacturing, advertising, merchandising) to have that weird seasonal lag between the womenswear and the menswear when they're sharing the same ideas.

 

[PierreGotha]

These jackets and coats looked better on men rather than the version that he had from his SS womenswear.
If they're going to incorporate a unisex approach they could've done a Co-Ed show and his leather goods are still dull and uninspired.

The collection and notably its RTW is modest and cautious. Even if his intention is to make the mens "Sexier", it is obviously
a mimicry of his Ancorra Debut. Sadly, this is a decent collection for now. Especially if it's coming in his direction.

Seeing his menswear, I'm starting to doubt his abilities to produce a decent womenswear collection. I hope he took the reception of his debut with deep consideration because his womenswear might struggle.

 

[Abracai]

I think it was very good and a very elegant collection as well. Whole project seems more confident than the first runway.
It's also having very positive reactions on social media I've noticed.

 

[lookatme]

Also that "Masculinity" song is so cringe.

 

[nilobraz]

For me it's not bad, it's just forgettable

 

[GoldenTribe]

The shoes and those ribbon necklace things are beyond bad, but the rest is a passable exercise in expensive menswear to be forgotten as soon as it's out of sight. A bit heavy on the played-out rhinestone pieces, but that's the only thing that has stuck in my memory after watching the whole show on YouTube.

 

[yslforever]

The shoes and those ribbon necklace things are beyond bad,

Those ribbons are indeed terrible, my SO initially thought they were dog leashes ...

 

[disco54]

Very boring, its not bad just there is nothing which makes any of this stand out.

 

[jeanclaude]

Nobody has said it so far...but WHITE SOCKS???? My eyes!!!

tumblr.com

The collection is as expected: another perfect example from a fashion designer who refuses to actually design something (like 90% of his peers nowadays).

 

[gallianostan]

btw i f*cking loathe that song. i was surprised john even used it in the margiela show... what happened to those crazy jeremy healy mixes??

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Froom a pure product perspective, LOVED IT. So strong, crisp, beautifully made, well-designed clothes and accessories. Encore!

 

[Fulton St Critique]

It's not bad, much more convincing than the women's collection. Sabato is a merchandise designer, the product is both wearable and well made but devoid of any personality. He needs a strong stylist who knows their tricks and can elevate the whole thing, same goes for the campaign photographer.

I dont know, I see personality here. Its modern, fresh, tasteful- it just lacks any real thrill or shock factor.