Haute Couture F/W 2025.26 - The Show Schedule Thread

[vogue28]

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FHCM.PARIS

 

[justpassingthrough]

Pardon my ignorance but I’m curious how common it is to have design team lead couture shows? Who are the main heads who take the lead & direction? TIA!

 

[LadyJunon]

Pardon my ignorance but I’m curious how common it is to have design team lead couture shows? Who are the main heads who take the lead & direction? TIA!

It's not very common since most corporate luxury houses either don't do couture collections. That said, it has happened before. Margiela did team-led couture collections (ghost-designed by Blazy) in the gap between Martin and John and Dior presented two team-led couture collections in the interim between Raf and Maria.

 

[Salvatore]

There's not a lot to look forward to this season. My usuals are Schiaparelli and Giorgio Armani Privé. The real excitement will be in January 2026 ! Also very strange there's no Givenchy.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I think the next Givenchy couture will be next season. They’re probably giving Sarah a little more breathing room before going into that.

We ended up never getting anything from Williams’ tenure, even when it was supposedly promised. Personally, I do think they should have had her debut be a couture collection. Higher stakes visually, but more freedom. Plus what was done in HC could be easily explored in RTW for shop floor clients. When you start with RTW, it kinda flops the vision for couture. Only broadly speaking, and hoping it isn’t the case for her.

 

[caioherrero]

No Givenchy?

 

[LadyJunon]

There's not a lot to look forward to this season. My usuals are Schiaparelli and Giorgio Armani Privé.

Glenn Martens' Margiela debuts this season, so that should be something to be excited for.

The real excitement will be in January 2026 ! Also very strange there's no Givenchy.

No Givenchy?

I believe that Givenchy HC is coming next year.

 

[Salvatore]

Glenn Martens' Margiela debuts this season, so that should be something to be excited for.

Oh, I completely forgot about that ! That should be exciting indeed !!

 

[Squizree]

Definitely excited for Margiela.

 

[Kanzai]

One and only Armani

 

[CommanderTMugler]

Yeah there’s no real excitement this season. Hopefully someone comes from under the shadows and really knocks it out of the park. Elie Saab could really do something but it will be more of the same. Armani will forever deliver and Schiaparelli will open with a gimmick and still deliver some decent pieces.

JPG has no guest designer anymore so they’ll be skipping right?

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

No Valentino? Am I blind?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Yeah there’s no real excitement this season. Hopefully someone comes from under the shadows and really knocks it out of the park. Elie Saab could really do something but it will be more of the same. Armani will forever deliver and Schiaparelli will open with a gimmick and still deliver some decent pieces.

JPG has no guest designer anymore so they’ll be skipping right?

Duran Lantink’s appointment to the house meant him being Creative Director for both RTW and HC, sadly. I do think a more permanent designer will be helpful, but honestly they should have had the collab carousel be for two seasons and not just one.

Shame they’re skipping though. Couture could have been a great way to see if Lantink can follow through with such a role. I sound a little savage, but for houses such as these couture really is a great way to test these designers and see if they can suffer with such a teeth scraping to produce something of note with such freedom with the ateliers at hand.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Duran Lantink’s appointment to the house meant him being Creative Director for both RTW and HC, sadly. I do think a more permanent designer will be helpful, but honestly they should have had the collab carousel be for two seasons and not just one.

Shame they’re skipping though. Couture could have been a great way to see if Lantink can follow through with such a role. I sound a little savage, but for houses such as these couture really is a great way to test these designers and see if they can suffer with such a teeth scraping to produce something of note with such freedom with the ateliers at hand.

gona drag his name out again, what a shame no theyskens collab with JPG
or Tsci and Stefano

 

[oioioi]

Duran's appointment was mid-April, if he showed HC for JPG beginning of July it would be really soon for someone like him. JPG HC calendar structure is 6 months from beginning to end (like all the Guest collections had). Raf did it in a short time at Dior but he had been working many years, with developed collaborators, the Dior codes or bible to play with is a bit more defined, the business structure is fully supported from head to toe. Duran has to figure out how he's going to present the first RTW collections for Womens, Mens, Pre-collections/business side and HC at JPG as it's first permanent CD since the founder. They don't even have any stores left and have been doing quite cheap tik tok/'yaaaas' queen mesh body con dresses since then, with wholesale distributors.
According to the management the guest HC collections became very expensive so they needed to halt - it was already an extremely philanthrophic gift from Jean-Paul who gave carte blanche brief and budget to designers (which other designer would be so ego-less).
But each time you pay for very expensive molds and lasts for the shoes, bijoux, with almost no sale afterwards.

I hope they give him some time to develop, and not just throw him in there hoping for a miracle. But probably not..

Theyskens x JPG seems similar in language maybe not enough tension, though I like his work.
Tisci, Stefano..both have tons of design and commercial gigs and chances, do they still need more help from JPG?

 

[LadyJunon]

No Valentino? Am I blind?

They're only doing one HC a year. It's quite a shame that they're doing this, because HC is sort of the lifeblood of the house. It also means that Kering doesn't even have a brand that is fully committed to HC.