Helmut Lang F/W 2003.04 Paris

Astrid21 · Mar 8, 2003

How excited I was to wake up early to this.

IMO, the tailoring was incredible and the attenuate silhouettes and the subtle colors remind me of Balenciaga. Something that masculine, like the harnesses and buckles, are hard to imagine as feminine and beautiful, but he pulled it off. :wub:

I was most impressed w/the luxurious fabrics, like the felt and jersey. Everything looked very comfortable and flattering.

trean · Mar 8, 2003

I like it too,although Balenciaga was a huge inspiration :? :wub:

Astrid21 · Mar 8, 2003

I think they went along the same lines, but Helmut didn't design this after he saw Ghesquière's fall collection. :lol:

I wonder how that happens though. :?:

Feline · Mar 8, 2003

Great minds........etc.

Thanks for this, Astrid. A lot of very wearable, but interestingly cut items here. I like it lots & lots.

LolitaLuxe · Mar 8, 2003

i do see the balenciaga refrence :? but i like it!!
very "astrid" :wink:

i

the second row! actually i like all of it. i see a little punk in this collection-[ the straps-holes] but its understated. i would really like to see this collection up close. i like the dark colors- but they way the camara picks up dark colors - i feel like im missing something :?

Kelsey · Mar 8, 2003

HEY you know i was thinking the same thing! like how do trends happen like that, or not just trends, but you see how some seasons very many designers do something similar! but how do they KNOW!!!!!!

Astrid21 · Mar 8, 2003

very "astrid"

:mrred:

asta · Mar 9, 2003

but, isn't helmut lang famous for these deconstructed angular looks? i am not sure about this, but i always thought of lang when seeing balenciaga's shows.... i thought ghesquière was influenced by helmut! so correct me if i am wrong. i might have to go back and review some of the older collections...

YohjiAddict · Mar 29, 2020

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YohjiAddict · Mar 29, 2020

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YohjiAddict · Mar 29, 2020

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YohjiAddict · Mar 29, 2020

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bc collector · Mar 29, 2020

Helmut copying Nicholas? Seriously?

Lola701 · Mar 29, 2020

^^
That collection came after Nicolas’s FW 2003 collection for Balenciaga that was shown in NYC that season.

Even today, it still looks very Balenciaga by NG.
Such a good and interesting collection. I liked Helmut’s « comeback to Paris » era even if it was the beginning of the end. Nicolas has been influenced by Helmut (even if it wasn’t his only influence) and at that time, it felt like Helmut used that energy to challenge himself.

Nicolas has always been more about Alaia and Versace than Lang even if at the time everybody in the industry wore and was somehow influenced by Lang.

That era of Helmut wasn’t fairly appreciated at the time but it was great. It’s a pity Prada killed the brand because he still had a lot to offer at the time...

LOL at the time Carine put her son on all the runways of her friends...He walked for Hedi too.

perfect blue · Mar 29, 2020

It’s probably just me but this still looks futuristic, amazingly enough.

YohjiAddict · Mar 29, 2020

The final dresses do resemble the Balenciaga ones, but it seems unlikely they'd copy a show that took place only weeks before...

My favorite looks are the aviator miniskirts, they are the reason this show will remain a favorite of mine forever. The coats with multiple lapels are also to die for.

Á propos, does someone have HQ's of Balenciaga Fall 2003? Besides the livingly ones. A classic show.

dior_couture1245 · Mar 29, 2020

Lola701 said:
Even today, it still looks very Balenciaga by NG.
Such a good and interesting collection. I liked Helmut’s « comeback to Paris » era even if it was the beginning of the end. Nicolas has been influenced by Helmut (even if it wasn’t his only influence) and at that time, it felt like Helmut used that energy to challenge himself.

I agree. I always loved most, I think, his Parisian comeback collections. Of course the 90’s more minimal and urban collections are unsurpassable in their coolness and timelessness...but I personally have a soft spot for the more editorial, more challenging collections of 2003, 4 and 5.

You’re also right to point out that it seems as though this era of Helmut’s work was potentially spurred on by a sense of competition...and I would wager you’re on the money there.

I think, more than just Helmut, all designers of this time had a healthy sense of competition amongst each other...consciously or subconsciously, they all pushed each other to produce really, really good work...everyone seemed on top of their game. It’s why we have so much incredible fashion from that era. That’s the way it should be.

You really don’t sense that there’s any healthy competition amongst designers now...everyone is looking to DO better, but no one seems to be looking to BE better.

Lola701 · Mar 29, 2020

dior_couture1245 said:
I agree. I always loved most, I think, his Parisian comeback collections. Of course the 90’s more minimal and urban collections are unsurpassable in their coolness and timelessness...but I personally have a soft spot for the more editorial, more challenging collections of 2003, 4 and 5.

You’re also right to point out that it seems as though this era of Helmut’s work was potentially spurred on by a sense of competition...and I would wager you’re on the money there.

I think, more than just Helmut, all designers of this time had a healthy sense of competition amongst each other...consciously or subconsciously, they all pushed each other to produce really, really good work...everyone seemed on top of their game. It’s why we have so much incredible fashion from that era. That’s the way it should be.

You really don’t sense that there’s any healthy competition amongst designers now...everyone is looking to DO better, but no one seems to be looking to BE better.

Yes, designers were a lot more competitive in that era. Each season was a way to prove yourself, to do better and it was also the time when the industry was smaller and critics could really still make or break collections.
I will always cherish that era! I was young, being in that industry and witnessing that was amazing.
And fashion post 9/11 became more and more technical because more than beauty, designers felt like they needed to add more details than ever to justify the prices and « luxurious » aspect of their work. Models were glamazon and fashion was really for the idea of that active woman who needed clothes for her daily life...As opposed to the mid to late 00’s that was about a dressy, more Redcarpet/eveningwear aspect.

And what I loved about the 00´s was that a lot of brands weren’t profitable at all. Except for Gucci, Prada, Chanel, Vuitton, Dior, Cavalli And Gaultier, the majority of the brands were either struggling, in complete revamp or in decline but you couldn’t realize it by the quality of the collections..
Even Donatella had a stellar FW2003 season.

rip_ian curtis · Mar 30, 2020

Even though I loved and love Helmut, this collection never was my favourite beyond the immediate rush it delivers. Actually it feels quite messy and not very realistic in a way. I don't see the Helmut person wearing this down the street, unlike all his other collections. Someone above commented it looks futuristic. Jil Sander once said "[in my fashion design]I like to be future-forward, but without being futuristic." -> to me that was always the beauty of Helmut as well, and the very reason why this collection missed the mark. Same goes for some of Nicholas stuff, like ss09.

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