Hermès Menswear F/W 2024.25 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[Kanzai]

The overseas brother of Zegna, with strongly leather oriented. Black is the highlight of the collection, especially the last few looks.

But Gaultier era Hermes was still the golden time

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[RaisinBoy]

Dull!

 

[Phuel]

VOGUE.COM

You know, if the direction was strictly based on these luscious, scrumptious, smouldering classic modern looks, one can dream it's Haider's Berluti at Hermes...:sigh:

The ponyskin coat shall be mine...

 

[kasper!]

But Gaultier era Hermes was still the golden time

Hermès femme and homme are two completely different departments. Véronique Nichanian has been in charge of over 3 decades...She hardly changes or say..evolves. Some suits, some leather jackets, some oversize men's bags, some men's silk scarves. That is it.

 

[Kanzai]

Hermès femme and homme are two completely different departments. Véronique Nichanian has been in charge of over 3 decades...She hardly changes or say..evolves. Some suits, some leather jackets, some oversize men's bags, some men's silk scarves. That is it.

Ye, imho Hermes homme worth seeing more than their femme nowadays. The womenswear are just dull

 

[bennyboy]

the soundtrack light up the whole collection

 

[Lola701]

Hermès menswear is always so perfectly styled that you can tricked into thinking that it was a good collection.
I really love the pants! I think Pierre Hardy did a fabulous job for the shoes, particularly the derby and the 8 last looks are pure perfection! A real evening wear section for Hermes is not usual and the poneyskin? Fabulous! 20K coats i suspect!

Passed all of that, it was another boring but also, I must say that, dusty collection…

I don’t go often to Hermes stores. Except for their homewear, their fragrances and their jewelry, I don’t particularly care about what they have to offer. But this winter I went to the store to buy Christmas gift and from what is produced and available in the menswear, it was hardly desirable. It’s either too classic or too weird and the color palette and prints are weird. I ended up going to Celine!

And this is what we have here. It’s either too classic or too weird. Did a green coat needed that weird leather black panel? What are those weird shades of green and lilac?
I really like when pieces are dépouillées in menswear.

I love Veronique and I respect the trust that Dumas has in her but let’s be honest, Pierre Hardy is really the one instilling that touch of modernity in that Maison!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Hermes men’s-- unlike so many other menswear labels, and even more so in 2024, serves their customer with respect and assurance, rather than desperately pandering to children. You can say that brands like Armani and Ralph Lauren also serve their male customers faithfully; although, I find Armani just too dusty and dated, and Ralph just too uniform by this point. The majority of the look offered here, even the separates, aren’t my preference (because I loathe argyle and tie-dye). But, the handful of modern and refined leather coats/jackets and that leather pant, they’d be all mine if money were no object. Great coats/jackets/suit jackets over a t-shirt is my uniform; and there are such great leather coats/jackets here. But their typical male customer, and likely it’s also their loyal female clientele shopping for their husbands (...aren't you tempted to snacth up a few of the leather pieces for your husband???), will snatch up the majority of the looks because the men that wear this label have more important things on their minds than being a walking billboard for groundbreaking fashions of the Season, only to be discarded for the next fashion fix. Thankfully that’s not the Hermes male customer— and I hope it never will be.

It’s a shame that Gaultier never did design for the menswear when he was with Hermes. I do believe that it would have been supreme going by his womenswear— which was Gaultier at his very best.

 

[Kerg]

Always love Veronique's work ! always masculine and so "low luxury", Love HERMES Homme : that's exactly what i'm waiting for from a luxury brand and not the exhuberating sh$t à la Pharrell from LV....

 

[StylishCynic]

Happy to see that they brought the Margiela Clochette Necklace back. Interesting that it's in the menswear collection as Margiela only designed for Hermès womenswear. The ones in the pre-owned market are mostly worn and the leather lanyards are all beginning to crack with time.

I've always thought that there should be a small, permanent collection of the Margiela-Hermès womenswear pieces. They're all so timeless. Or, every season re-issued 12-20 pieces for clients to purchase through pre-order only. That stuff would spring out of the stores...

 

[Olaffo]

After seeing a of these atrocities showed on various runways this MFW I feel Hermes is one of the few brands keeping me alive. Was that her best collection ? No. Was it chic and elegant and wearable ? Yes. That’s all I need atm.

 

[vogue28]

A truly beautiful menswear collection, just as I have come to expect from Hermès. The styling is lovely, and the fabrics are just screaming luxury, which for me reads quintessential Hermès. A massive fan of the colour palette too. Easily one of my highlights of PFW!

 

[Lola701]

^^^ Hermes men’s-- unlike so many other menswear labels, and even more so in 2024, serves their customer with respect and assurance, rather than desperately pandering to children. You can say that brands like Armani and Ralph Lauren also serve their male customers faithfully; although, I find Armani just too dusty and dated, and Ralph just too uniform by this point. The majority of the look offered here, even the separates, aren’t my preference (because I loathe argyle and tie-dye). But, the handful of modern and refined leather coats/jackets and that leather pant, they’d be all mine if money were no object. Great coats/jackets/suit jackets over a t-shirt is my uniform; and there are such great leather coats/jackets here. But their typical male customer, and likely it’s also their loyal female clientele shopping for their husbands (...aren't you tempted to snacth up a few of the leather pieces for your husband???), will snatch up the majority of the looks because the men that wear this label have more important things on their minds than being a walking billboard for groundbreaking fashions of the Season, only to be discarded for the next fashion fix. Thankfully that’s not the Hermes male customer— and I hope it never will be.

It’s a shame that Gaultier never did design for the menswear when he was with Hermes. I do believe that it would have been supreme going by his womenswear— which was Gaultier at his very best.

I mean…
I like the idea of Hermes menswear and I always think that style triumph fashion, even more in menswear.
But, in my household I can’t say that Hermes is the go-to-brand. I have a man who has total loyalty to some brands: Tom Ford, Husbands Paris, Ami Paris, Dries Van Noten and Aime Leon Doré. The rest is either treasures found randomly on Mr Porter or in random shopping sprees.
Hermes does those quite chic and fabulous crewneck tshirts with rib trim cuffs and bottom, the etriviere belt and some shoes that are also appreciated by my husband (apparently their watches are good too!). Their accessories are good too.

Men that are busy don't have necessarily time for fashion and even if they do like to dress and the whole thing, there's also that comfort in going to places they like and understand.

When I look at this collection, except for the Plume travel bag and the last part with the pony hair, I don’t see many things I would buy for my husband for example. But I’m not a woman who liked Birkin and Kelly and who goes everyday in the boutiques to buy things for the quotas in hopes to be offered a bag. So in my case, there are more chances that I will comeback with a Loewe wool overshirt , a Lucien Pellat Finet cashmere hoodie, a Printed Dries or Polo Ralph Lauren shirt than a piece from Hermes.

And as I said, Hermes colors are so weird sometimes. For the colors, you can’t hardly do better than Dries. And some designs have some superflu details.

The reason why Haider for Berluti was great was because it had that interesting cut, very simple and modern allure but also the pieces were just essentials and timeless.

And the issue with Hermes menswear is the same with the womenswear. I loved the Gaultier era. I’m still mad that I wasn’t into it enough to buy more… I loved Lemaire less but he had that fabulous collection where Mariacarla opened! And now with Nadege…What can I say!?

Veronique is a fantastic designer but it’s been a couple of seasons where despite the great styling, it’s less desirable if we remove the « c’est Hermès » factor.

 

[Alquimista]

Pure beauty. If only I had Hermes kind of money haha

 

[tourbillions]

most of it screams buy me... their prints are always so recognizably hermes.

 

[jeanclaude]

No matter what she designs, because it will be bought anyway by people wanting a Birkin or a Kelly. Pure sales quota bait!

 

[GoldenTribe]

There are too many weird little wonky panels thrown on the jackets. Coats in #2 and #3 are borderline hideous but they would have been fine without the superfluous #leather #details.