There is always at Hermès an integrity in their proposition that sets them apart, above all the LVMH and Kering houses.
Their only goal is excellence, not to be liked, or be in the "fashion conversation", and I find that fascinating, so I am not very objective when judging this.
I liked a lot the fashion show. The music was really cool, and when the second song started (more or less with the red leather jacket look) I thought of... Hedi Slimane 😅 all the supercool music at his Saint Laurent runways.
And I thought it would be interesting to have Hedi "correcting" a couple of things. Not designing Hermès, not at the helm, just giving some input to streamline this and make it a little bit more modern. Only a little bit.
That parma gray parka, out. It doesn't bring anything.
The top and the jacket with like an horizontal ypsilon (Y), out. They look from a 90s department store.
Slightly change the fit on the last velvet looks, the two suits, the coat.
Things like these.
Otherwise I loved what looks like textured leather in the outerwear, the geometrical motifs, the knitwear (even the cagoles), the accessories and the bags.
I would go so far as to say that this is the only serious proposition of a menswear wardrobe that can claim to be genuinely French done by a French house, opposite to the Italian menswear seen in Milano.