Hermès Menswear F/W 2025.25 Paris

The stills really do not do this collection justice, a whole other experience when you watch the show. Great bags, no surprise there. It was classic and clean, nothing super exciting but definitely filled with men's style rule upholders. I liked this collection.
i seen the video before skipping the stills, and the experience is that of a empty design for design sake way of doing collection.

sure some ok pieces , classic as in a tik tok era idea of classic new money classic sure, clean some coats and pants sure

this models jawline and expression explains the whole collection to me.

Screenshot 2025-01-25 at 21.33.51.png
 
I am not sure about their menswear, but here if you order a coat or a suit here...you will be offered a Birkin or Kelly very soon....sooner than jewelry(always low stock) and some other normal catagories.

It's a pity there is no croc jacket on runway this time. I always like their croc apparel:ninjas:
 
There's a blandness here that makes my eyes glaze over. I can usually appreciate some of the richness with Hermes, but this just has a dated mall decor vibe with the knits. Aggressively bland, hard to watch.
 
I think it’s OK. The colors are still terrible. Seriously, who buys those colors?
Too many unnecessary inserts of details but overall some good outerwear and seeing skinny pants is somehow fresh looking but there’s something not modern about her proposition. I don’t know if it’s the styling or precisely the horrible pop colors…
D
I'm sure Nichanian will take her last breath at Hermès but I would love to see someone new bringing some fresh air into Hermes' menswear. I guess being rude keeps one going forever (she is a naaaaasty piece of work and multiple model friends of mine told we she will say the WORST things to models during castings).
She was chosen by Jean Louis Dumas, survived every turn over compared to the womenswear part. She is like Pierre Hardy. She will leave when she decides.
I think the Dumas brothers are loyal to those people that their father esteemed. They have maintained relationships with Gaultier, Margiela and even Claude Brouet from what I learned…

But now that I’m thinking about it, Hermes does use a lot of fresh faces…
She is maybe more horrible to them due to that fact I don’t know. Sometimes bad behavior is celebrated because people are appreciated by the right people.
 
There is always at Hermès an integrity in their proposition that sets them apart, above all the LVMH and Kering houses.
Their only goal is excellence, not to be liked, or be in the "fashion conversation", and I find that fascinating, so I am not very objective when judging this.

I liked a lot the fashion show. The music was really cool, and when the second song started (more or less with the red leather jacket look) I thought of... Hedi Slimane 😅 all the supercool music at his Saint Laurent runways.
And I thought it would be interesting to have Hedi "correcting" a couple of things. Not designing Hermès, not at the helm, just giving some input to streamline this and make it a little bit more modern. Only a little bit.
That parma gray parka, out. It doesn't bring anything.
The top and the jacket with like an horizontal ypsilon (Y), out. They look from a 90s department store.
Slightly change the fit on the last velvet looks, the two suits, the coat.
Things like these.

Otherwise I loved what looks like textured leather in the outerwear, the geometrical motifs, the knitwear (even the cagoles), the accessories and the bags.

I would go so far as to say that this is the only serious proposition of a menswear wardrobe that can claim to be genuinely French done by a French house, opposite to the Italian menswear seen in Milano.
 
In my opinion, she truly excels at outerwear. If I had unlimited funds, I’d buy most of it.
In this ever-changing and sometimes chaotic creative director rotation, I can appreciate a house like Hermès for its consistent vision—even if it can be a bit dull at times. At the same time, she seems so comfortable in her position that she rarely pushes herself to offer anything surprising.
 
I am not sure about their menswear, but here if you order a coat or a suit here...you will be offered a Birkin or Kelly very soon....sooner than jewelry(always low stock) and some other normal catagories.

It's a pity there is no croc jacket on runway this time. I always like their croc apparel:ninjas:
To be "forced" to purchase one of these beautiful coats in order to get a Birkin, which is the second tackiest thing at Hermès after the belts...

You had to force me to buy a Birkin in order to get the coat...

Such a strange world we live in.
 

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