Hood by Air Mens S/S 2016 Paris

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[nataliaapple]

I dunno about this...

 

[Vitamine W]

WTF is this?

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

yea... after an amazing fall collection, im disappointed

 

[simon]

The whole thing looks too gimmicky. What's around the mouth of the other models? I feel uncomfortable looking at these.

 

[Desi]

those pants remind me of highschool and Hot Topic. Not in the best ways either.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I understand why a designer like Oliver would want to show in Paris. It's where he's always wanted to be.

But Paris isn't just about a progressive or wacky idea, it's also about technique and craft, real luxury and skill. It's where Yohji and Rei present their clothes. It's where Lanvin and Hermes show their collections. It's where the masters dwell and the best of the best come to show off. It's disappointing after such a strong season that Oliver came only to prove he was out of his depth.

These clothes look tortured, and not in a CDG deconstructed way but in a fashion school project way. The thing about deconstruction is that you need to know how to construct the thing before you take it apart. I'd like to see Oliver prove he can make a beautiful suit or beautiful dress. Until then, it's just rags and scraps that no one wants to wear.

Refine refine refine!!! He should go back to basics and rebuild his collection with a solid foundation in proper clothes. That would be unexpected. We can get this vibe much better from Rei, Rick, or Ricardo. His shock value and new kid on the block appeal is set to wear out in 3, 2, 1...

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I understand why a designer like Oliver would want to show in Paris. It's where he's always wanted to be.

But Paris isn't just about a progressive or wacky idea, it's also about technique and craft, real luxury and skill. It's where Yohji and Rei present their clothes. It's where Lanvin and Hermes show their collections. It's where the masters dwell and the best of the best come to show off. It's disappointing after such a strong season that Oliver came only to prove he was out of his depth.

These clothes look tortured, and not in a CDG deconstructed way but in a fashion school project way. The thing about deconstruction is that you need to know how to construct the thing before you take it apart. I'd like to see Oliver prove he can make a beautiful suit or beautiful dress. Until then, it's just rags and scraps that no one wants to wear.

Refine refine refine!!! He should go back to basics and rebuild his collection with a solid foundation in proper clothes. That would be unexpected. We can get this vibe much better from Rei, Rick, or Ricardo. His shock value and new kid on the block appeal is set to wear out in 3, 2, 1...

And for F!!K sake can he please learn to do a collar that doesn't look like shat.

 

[Spike413]

It's a tragic day when this parade of overworked, overpriced and pretentious bulls*** is considered somehow relevant and Donna Karan basically closes up shop.

 

[gazebo]

 

[Marc10]

yea... after an amazing fall collection, im disappointed

Me too. The fall collection was fantastic, it had all the transgression that HBA stands for but also had a great elegant and polished feel. This one looks way too overworked, I think he maybe tried too hard to make a big statement. There's some good pieces (I particularly loved the deconstructed white shirt), but he can do better than this, especially if he wants to show in Paris.

 

[lalatran]

That matte brown and purple look horrendous especially under nature light. What a major let down.

 

[gazebo]

 

[Phuel]

Maybe because it's the corporate state that high fashion has (d)evolved into, but I can't help but be overly-suspicious of people like him and labels like this now: There's this glaring transparency that all the attetnion-wh*ring efforts are made here to just pimp hoodies, tees and sneakers collaborations with other athletic-apparel corporations down the line. There's no effort in developing, nurturing and honing one's skills as a designer anymore, it seems.

Whatever "creativity"-- if I'm feeling generous here, seems so contrived with a heavy-hand. I'm with you Mutterlein, there doesn't seem to be any investment in construction, tailoring, and the desire to thoughtfully deconstruct with a purpose to move high fashion forward. It's all an excuse to remind us of his tag "HBA".

And if I want to be particularly critical of how lacking in creativity this collection all screams, it looks like such an incredibly poor, poor poor man's take on Gaultier's A/W 1989 collection that was a fun statement of fashion fragmentation and in a sense, the beginning of that type of aesthetic that Margiela would make his signature: Thoughtfully and richly referential, deconstructed, repurposed fashion structures of classic and traditional garments. Here at HBA, it's so gaudily, carelessly thrown together it's hard not to be cynical of its purpose since it all resembles a fashion student's project. And just because it features a racially diverse cast doesn't make it any more relevant. It's still corporate-chasing with all the soulless logos everywhere.

It's all very amateur-looking.

 

[gazebo]

It's a mountain of crap. It's repulsive really.

 

[nothingisnothing]

serving fashion school realness